DESIGNER NAME: Maria Francesca Pepe
设计师姓名：Maria Francesca Pepe
BACKGROUND: Maria is from southern Italy. She completed her MA at Central Saint Martins having previously studied literature in Milan and then a BA in Fashion at the Maragoni Institute. She mainly did freelance work in Italy, then relocated to London and assisted Jens Laugesen as well briefly working at Vivienne Westwood, before launching her own brand. Maria has designed catwalk jewellery ranges for brands such as Roksanda Ilincic and Amanda Wakeley and collaborated with top high street retailers including Topshop and Urban Outfitters.
背景：Maria来自意大利南部。她在伦敦中央圣马丁毕业，之前在米兰学习后来在Maragoni学院获得时尚学硕士。她在意大利时是自由职业者，后来搬到伦敦，在自己独立品牌成立之前，于Vivienne Westwood作为Jens Laugesen的设计助理。Maria设计的时装秀珠宝曾与众多品牌合作，比如Roksanda llincic，Amanda Wakeley，还和高街零售商Topshop和Urban Outfitters有合作。
SIGNATURES: “Ancient symbols serve as amulets, enhancing the ultimate jewellery function as the perfect gift. Shapes and classic elements are reinterpreted from their traditional and ethnic forms within a post-modern aesthetic, adding a techno-deco appeal. The cross, the harness and the heart gain fashion relevance. The MFP vision is to create beautifully handcrafted, timeless pieces of superb quality with cutting edge design.”
IDEAL CLIENT: “Anyone who desires both high-end, handcrafted quality and design originality with an avant-garde approach. I sell objects of desire, made in Italy using the oldest techniques, although my aesthetic constantly evolves and is far from obvious. MFP creations are often inspired by the pop and street contemporary culture, but they actually reflect a more hidden, instinctive taste and approach to fashion. This allows the collections to be appreciated by a variety of customers, regardless of age.”
THE COLLECTION: “SS14 resort collection is based on best selling styles, re-made for the occasion in fancy pastel colours, pearls, black enamel and rainbow Swarovski crystals. The result is fresh, luxurious, chic-deco and easy to wear. The inspiration is pure 60’s. Roy Liechtenstein meets Edie Sedgwick, meets Jackie Kennedy Onassis. The SS14 collection re-defines the jewellery's function as a tribal ornament for the modern era: the inspiration moves from Rousseau botanic paintings to a Deco interpretation of luxury jungle. Bracelets, necklaces, ear-cuffs and rings are conceived as wearable tattoos and adorned by flowers, tribal graphics, diamond chains and colourful enamels. There are also strong references to the baroque aesthetic of 90’s Versace, urban elements and ethnic vibes.”
最新系列介绍：“2014年早春系列基于最热卖的风格，重新融入美丽的色彩，珍珠，黑色珐琅以及彩虹施华洛世奇水晶。清新，奢华，时髦而易搭配。纯粹的60年代灵感，Roy Liechtenstein与Edie Sedgwick以及Jackie Kennedy Onassis风混搭。14的春夏系列重塑了珠宝的功能性质，把部落感觉带到了现代人的装饰审美中：灵感在卢梭植物画和对奢侈丛林间游走。手链，项链，耳环以及戒指，鲜花形状，部落符号，钻石链条以及多彩的磁漆的使用，让MFP被认为是一种可穿戴的纹身。也可见到对90年代范思哲的巴洛克美学，都市风以及部落民族感。”
FAVOURITE COLLECTION TO DATE: “Each new collection has a different meaning for me and is originally inspired by different parts of my personality. Therefore I cannot choose a favourite one. I feel each new collection defines a further development both creatively and professionally.”
WHO EMBODIES THE SPIRIT OF YOUR BRAND: “Cool-girls with a slightly subversive twist.”
Editing/Chinese: Sam Shusen Guo
Born in Madrid, cosmopolitan and culturally restless, INÉS FIGAREDO has been, since 2011, utterly determined to rescue the ancient know how of haute spanish leatherwork and jewelry, the exquisite art of embroidery and the traditional craft skills of sculpture. She saw them as the best allies for her overwhelming creativity and as her path to explore bags as an art form in search of excellence.
Her pieces are nurtured with materials of outstanding quality: exquisite spanish leathers and certified exotic skins. They contain infinite textures: breathtaking silk, gold thread, sheer organza, fine embroidery, sculpted bronze, semi-precious stones, fiberglass or Swarovski crystals with gorgeous finishes, gold and silver plating, jewelry enamel, bronze patina reenacting original baroque ornamentation as the distinctive signature of the brand.
Figaredo's painstaking crafting process includes an outstanding team of fine spanish artists who contribute their skill to her exclusive designs, fittings, jewelry and hand sown trim, all handcrafted entirely in Spain.
The Collections are non-seasonable timeless proposals conceived to fully satisfy the style of cosmopolitan, free, active and distinguished women who feel unique and one of a kind, with a poetic attitude.
Figaredo's are small art pieces presented twice a year with adequate choices for every occasion, day, cocktail, evening, 24/7.
The designer's cornerstone is the reconstruction of small everyday objects, filtered through her restive spirit, to depict a colorful universe that evokes far off places of our collective memory, a magical land, where time does not prevail, freeing our dreams and, more importantly, encouraging us to reinvent ourselves.
A new concept in female luxury.
Text via: hwww.inesfigaredo.com/
Edit/Chinese: Sam Shusen GUO
Kzeniya was born and raised in Ukraine and has studied at St.Martin's School of Design and after one year in Paris, lives in London now. She exclusively produces in Italy and collaborates with highly-selected artisans and a small factory in Venezia. Some of the pieces have to be done one by one, they are handmade – sometimes Kzeniya does parts of them by herself such as the hand clutch, which was a big success in Asia (also on the cover of Elle Vietnam) and of course I wanted one of them too. Unfortunately they were already sold out by the time I had met her. In addition to that it sounded like the involvement of an extreme effort when it comes to manufacturing the Plexiglas part of the item, which Kzeniya used to do by herself…..(which certainly makes the clutch even more desirable….)
Kzeniya has managed to increase her popularity within the course of a very short time, actually in only two years, and her bags and clutches are without exception named and published in world-renowed fashion magazines – celebrities and Hollywood stars wear her brand, tons of publications evidence that.
Kzeniya is not a master of aggressive marketing, and as she said by herself: she intends to grow slowly but with consistence. At first I was pretty surprised by the affordability of her items – still, we're talking about a product MADE IN ITALY, almost overally handmade with only 50 pieces per collection. But then… after a while I started to understand that the entire concept was carefully and intelligently elaborated. However, you can toss and turn it around as much as you want, the core and real success factor behind the brand is the person Kzeniya herself. In all my life I have met very few people that were as classy, friendly, elegant and humble all in one. Complimeti!
Kzeniya本人并不是一个很有野心的市场营销专家，她自己也有说过：她想慢慢的稳妥的发展。起初，我特别惊讶她的单品价格的亲民性，不管如何，我们说的可是“Made in ITALY”啊，基本上全是手工制造，每一个系列只有50个单品。但是，一段时间之后我开始明白了这整个理念是小心的并且非常智慧的举措。毕竟，不管你辗转反侧的去想这个品牌的成功之处，这背后的最大原因是Kzeniya她本人。我一生的时间遇到了不多的人想她这样有品位，优雅并且也很谦虚。完完全全的！
KATALOVA: Kzeniya, I remember very well when you told me in Paris about your almost immediate successful entry into the market and your acceptance by the industry. Being a potential role model for many newcomers out there, which points are in your eyes most important to consider when launching a start-up in fashion?
KZENIYA: Without wanting to sound pessimistic it is extremely tough to start a new brand, especially in the current economic climate and with the market being so saturated with lots of beautiful products. You have to be sure that there is a gap in the market for what you plan to do or what you plan to do is significantly better than what is already in the market, otherwise there is no point. Also try to surround yourself with professional people, as there is a lot of ‘non-professional’ in the industry pretending to be big. You have to be prepared to work very, very hard, be open minded but very focused and be nice to people.
KATALOVA: In your specific case I know that you pay lots of attention to quality also during the production process itself, when it comes to choosing the right manufacturers etc. You exclusively produce in Venezia. Is there something Italians stand out for when it comes to manufacturing procedures – their own state of the art?
KZENIYA: Yes, everything I produce is manufactured just outside Venice. Most of the materials are Italian as well. When it comes to handbags and leather goods Italy is really the best place to manufacture. It is very expensive, but the quality and craftsmanship is just on a different level when you compare to the other places.
KATALOVA: You're a real genius when it comes to predicting what's next. Where does your good nose derive your visions from?
KZENIYA: I try to improve each season, so usually when I finish with one collection I already more or less know what I want to do for the next…I also do lots of research; and look around, I believe all the trends are in the air…
KATALOVA: Inspirations and idols? Who are they and why?
KZENIYA: I get inspired by strong women who are in charge of their destiny who live life to the full. I also get inspired a lot by modern art. Idols.. perhaps Alexander Mcqueen, I am just in love with his work. Also the style of Daphne Guinness, Isabella Blow it is just beyond amazing!
我一向被坚强的，掌握自己命运的，完全利用好自己生命的女人启发。现代艺术也会给我很多灵感。至于偶像吧……也许是Alexander Mcqueen，我就是大爱他的作品。还有Daphne Guinness的风格，还有Isabella Blow简直就是美翻了。
KATALOVA: I know there are all kinds of celebrities who actually wear your clutches and bags. Tell us who is the ideal KZENIYA celeb and why?
KZENIYA: I really like Angelina Jolie and Beyonce. I love their styles and values and it would be amazing to see them wear the bags one day.
KATALOVA: I am rather curious so I'd like to know what to expect next from you in the near future in terms of design. How futuristic will KZENIYA continue to be?
KZENIYA: My aesthetic is quite futuristic; I am trying to soften it for the next season a bit as an experiment… Next season will be all about textures and combinations of various techniques and prints. We are also planning lots of collaborations and maybe an introduction of semi-precious jewelry line in the coming seasons.
KATALOVA: Anything for men coming out soon?
KZENIYA: I am being asked this very often.. but I am not planning at the moment…
Text By Katharina Via katharinakatalova.blogspot.com
Edit/Chinese by Sam Shusen GUO
With statement jewels at the heart of every major fashion look, Emirates Woman finds out more about the woman behind beautiful Arabian-inspired collection, Shourouk.
With a company tagline like ‘luxury and decadence’ you’ll find nothing less from Shourouk Rhaiem’s mouth-wateringly bright, wow-factor jewels, which have garnered a varied range of celebrity fans from Lady Gaga to Michelle Obama. The Tunisian designer reveals her secrets to success…
伴随着品牌的口号“奢华和颓废'，你会在Shourouk Rhaiem的设计里发现令人垂涎三尺闪亮，和美到让人惊声尖叫的宝石元素，它已经赢得了从Lady Gaga到米歇尔奥巴马在内的庞大粉丝群。今天，这位突尼斯设计师为我们透露，她的成功秘诀…
Shourouk, the brand, was born in 2008. How did it come about?
I’ve always been fascinated by jewellery and crystals. As a child, I loved playing with my grandmother’s diamond bracelets but it was after working at Chloé, Galliano and Roberto Cavalli that I developed my true desire to work with luxury accessories. In 2008 I met my business partner, Pierre Lasquier, who invested in my vision. I’ve been making my own exciting pieces ever since.
我一直着迷于珠宝首饰和水晶。小时候我就非常爱玩我的奶奶的钻石手链，但在Chloé，Galliano以及Roberto Cavalli工作后，我开始真正 开始了想在奢华配饰上发展。 2008年，我遇到了我的商业伙伴，Pierre Lasquier，他为我的审美进行了投资。从那以后我就开始了自己精彩的设计旅程。
What inspires you?
I was born in Paris and have always admired the classicism of the city mixed with the melting pot of cultures you find in each district. As a true Parisian I’ve always been attracted by haute joaillerie and I like to twist these inspirations to create luxurious and funky statement pieces. I also travel a lot, which offers up so much. India, in particular, remains an inexhaustible source of inspiration with its kitsch culture and rich history. From the maharaja palaces to the shanty towns, I love how loud, chaotic and colourful it is.
How does your Arabian heritage inspire you?
My Tunisian roots have influenced the way I think and how I create my designs. I grew up in a feminine world, surrounded by women who loved to wear razzle-dazzle accessories and beautiful outfits for special occasions. This is reflected in my chunky necklaces and shiny designs, along with precious and elegant embroideries taken from traditional Tunisian garments.
Tell us about your S/S13 collection…
This season I used the eccentricity of African kings combined with the glamorous glitter of the Hollywood golden age. As a tribute to African craft, I wove crystal stones into fluro ropes to create easy-to-wear pieces. The collection also celebrates screen icon Elizabeth Taylor, echoing the magnificent jewels she wore but with my own unique twist – the earrings are bigger, the necklaces are like flowing rivers of diamonds and the colours are brighter and stronger.
这季我使用了非洲国王结合好莱坞魅力四射的黄金时代为灵感。作为对非洲工艺的致敬，我把水晶石用FLURO绳编制起来，来创作比较容易穿戴的配饰。本季还向荧幕经典伊丽莎白·泰勒致敬，和她穿戴的瑰丽珠宝相互呼应，但也融入了我自己独特的转变 – 耳环更大了一些，项链是像钻石流动的河流，颜色更亮，更闪耀。
We love your bejewelled range. What materials do you favour?
Swarovski crystals are the main components of my designs and probably my favourite. I like to mix metallic sequins with noble fabrics like silk and satin. I also love to use alternatives to precious materials, like neon climbing rope, PVC and authentic African wax fabric.
Describe your personal style in one sentence
A mix and match look that combines vintage and designer pieces, finished with a touch of bling-bling and red lipstick.
Who’s your style icon?
At the moment it’s Iris Apfel. I recently met her in Vienna and fell in love with her style. She has this Woody Allen vibe about her – a great sense of humour, a lot of irony and self-derision. She told me: ‘People have to get out of the box and have fun.’
现在是Iris Apfel。我最近在维也纳遇见了她而且爱上了她的风格。她有一种Woody Allen的味道—一点的幽默感，很多的象牙白色以及善于自嘲。她告诉我：“人们应该打破局限，享受人生。”
Describe the Shourouk woman
It’s not about her age, it’s more about her attitude and her spirit. She’s somebody who wants to wear original designs without feeling like it’s fancy dress. She’s not afraid of bright colours and bling. The Shourouk client ranges from the elegant and classic lady like Michelle Obama to the completely eccentric like Anna Dello Russo.
她的年龄不重要。重要的是她的态度和她的精神。她是那种想穿戴具有原创精神的设计的人。她不怕穿着闪亮的色彩。Shourouk的客人群从优雅的米歇尔奥巴马夫人，到精灵古怪的Anne Dello Russo。
Lastly, what should we wear with our jewels?
Everything is possible. Just make sure to have fun and take risks. There are no rules, jewellery gives you the opportunity to try so many things. It can add a twist or that needed final touch.
Shourouk is available at ALTER Concept Store in Shanghai, China.
Text by Jade Sprowson via style.com
Edit/Chinese by Sam Shusen GUO
Looking for a way to induce some serious bag envy on the street? Say no more. Let us introduce you to Sophie Hulme‘s supremely cool collection available at Alter Concept Store.
Made up of streamlined totes and crossbody clutches, Sophie’s designs offer a tomboyish take on feminine designs—think happy colors and refined silhouettes paired with tough, industrial hardware.
You may not have heard the name Sophie Hulme over on this side of the pond just yet, but take it from us, you’ll be hearing it everywhere soon. She graduated from Kingston University just five years ago, with both the Student of the Year and the Best Collection awards. Two months later, her label was off the ground. (It’s little wonder that The Telegraph has named her one of London’s brightest talents.)
Below, we got to the know the London-based designer a little better…
* * *
Tell us about your distinctive hardware.
The idea of the plates was to armor womenswear. I’ve used very industrial hardware to give it a certain masculinity.
What is your favorite decade in fashion?
The 70s—there are some amazing images of dancehall and gentlemen’s workwear that I love at the moment.
What are some of your favorite London haunts?
The Albion pub, Trullo is an amazing restaurant, and anywhere on Exmouth Market.
What was the last thing that inspired you?
I went to the Globetrotter case factory yesterday, and the craftsmanship was totally inspiring.
Who do you imagine carrying your designs?
I quite like the way that they are worn by all different types of women. I love seeing them worn in different ways.
Who is your style icon?
Jane Birkin always looked amazing. And my Nan—she’s always in an amazing outfit!
What is your favorite Sophie Hulme bag?
The mini envelope bag. I use mine all the time and usually wear it with a classic leather-sleeve trench from my collection. You can keep a surprising amount in it for a small bag.
You’ve accomplished so much at such a young age. What advice would you give aspiring designers looking to make it in this industry?
Work hard and be nice to people!
Text: Alisha Prakash VIA thewindow.barneys.com
Edit/Translation: Sam Shusen GUO
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