MILAN, Italy – Amina Muaddi is the Creative Director of the shoe brand Oscar Tiye. She started the brand together with her business partner Irina Curutz. When I was in Milan last month I met her for lunch and we talked about her new project..

 

 

 

 

 

 

米兰,意大利—Amina Muaddi是鞋履品牌Oscar Tiye的设计总监。她和自己的合作伙伴Irina Curutz一起创立该品牌。上个月在米兰笔者和她本人见面,聊了一些关于她的新项目。


 

1. Tell us about your background and why you decided to create the brand Oscar Tiye?

可以介绍一下您个人的经历,为什么要创立品牌Oscar Tiye?

I studied Fashion Communication at the European Institute of Design in Milan (IED) and soon after I started working as a fashion assistant and stylist for magazines. I realized that wasn’t my path and since I’ve always dreamed of having my own shoe line I decided not wait
anymore and embark in this adventure with my best friend and now business partner Irina Curutz.

我在米兰欧洲设计学院(IED)学习时尚传媒学,后来我就在一些杂志做时尚助理和造型师。我意识到这不是我梦想的道路,因为我从小就想要有自己的鞋履设计系列,我就决定不再等待,开始和我最好的朋友Irina Curutz一起开始了这场冒险之旅。

2. If you could collaborate with a designer who would it be?

如果您可以和以为设计师合作,您会选择谁?

Oh wow that’s a tough one! There are a lot of designers that I like and admire but my all time favourite is Nicholas Ghesquière. But that would be more of a sit and watch the master/learning process rather than a collaboration. Other than that there are a lot of fresh, young, talented designers that I would collaborate with.

哇,这个真是个很难回答的问题!有太多我喜欢和崇拜的设计师了但是说道我最最喜欢的当然是Nicholas Ghesquière。但对于我来说,在他面前,我就是只有认真坐下认真观察学习的份儿,谈不上什么合作啊。除此之外还有很多新鲜的,年轻的有才华的设计师我很愿意去合作。

3. What has been your highlight so far at Oscar Tiye?

您迄今为止创办Oscar Tiye的亮点时刻是什么?

We are a new brand so we experience a lot of “firsts” every day, I think that’s the beauty of it. The first time I saw our shoes on a style icon like Zoe Saldana was great, or the first time I saw them sold in a boutique I love. Recently we were chosen by Vogue Italia to present our collection during their event at the next Fashion Week so we are pretty excited about that too.

我们是一个新品牌,所以我们每天都在经历着各种“第一次”。我想这就是他的美好之处。我第一次看到我们鞋子被时尚偶像Zoe Saldana穿的时候,感觉非常棒,或者是第一次见到这些鞋子在我喜欢的一个商店里出售。最近我们又被意大利Vogue选中,在他们下一次时装周活动中展示,所以我们也非常激动。

4. Who would you like to see wearing your shoes?

您希望看到谁穿上您设计的鞋子?

I think seeing women wearing my shoes is the most gratifying feeling, whether they are famous or not. I know if they chose Oscar Tiye they are the feminine, chic, refined, cool and fun ladies I like.

我觉得能看到女人们穿上我们的鞋子是一件令人欣慰的事情,不管她是不是名人。我知道如果他们选择了Oscar Tiye,她们一定是我喜欢的那种很女人味,又时优雅精致,酷酷的并且很有趣的女人。

5. Whats next for you and Oscar Tiye?

接下来的你和Oscar Tiye都有什么计划呢?

I so am excited to present our Spring Summer 2014 collection in September in New York, Milan and Paris. As for me maybe going on a short vacation before the madness.

我非常激动我们接下来会在纽约米兰巴黎展示我们的2014春夏系列。对我个人来讲的话,我觉得是在疯狂之前先度一个小假吧。


Dec 16,2013 | Share This | 7,194 Comments | Reply

The legendary craftsmanship behind Cire Trudon candles—our newest obsession!

Cire Trudon蜡烛背后的传奇手工艺!


 

 

THE RICH AND ROYAL HERITAGE of French candle maker Cire Trudon is woven through with quintessential elements of Parisian history. The clean-burning white candles once lit the courts of Versailles in the time of Louis the XIV and lined the infamous boudoir of Marie Antoinette. A Trudon candle was the single gift given by Napoleon at the birth of his son. Revived in 2007, the Cire Trudon brand is staying true to its storied reputation for quality and creating candles you have to smell to believe. Cire Trudon GM, Julien Pruvost, fills us in on the ins and outs of the luxury brand’s inner workings.

法国蜡烛制造商Cire Trudon丰富而又贵族的传承伴随着巴黎历史重大事件编织而成。它曾燃烧在凡尔赛宫路易十四的枕边,照亮玛丽·安托瓦内特皇后的闺房。Cire Trudon也是拿破仑送给他儿子出生时唯一的礼物。2007年,Cire Trudon品牌精神重新焕发,坚守其传奇的质量和声誉,创造一种你凭借嗅觉就能完全辨识的蜡烛。让我们跟随该品牌的总经理Julien Pruvost,了解更多关于该奢侈品牌的背后故事。

The Chalkboard Mag: Cire Trudone has such a fascinating history. Is it the traditions that come from Trudon’s long history that inspire the candle’s pure and all-natural ingredients?

Cire Trudone有着非常多迷人的故事,使用蜡烛的纯洁和完全的自然香料配方,是一种取自它本身长久历史的传统吗?

Julien Pruvost: “Yes, candles used to be made of 100% beeswax. We would not be able to make scented candles in 100% beeswax for obvious reasons so we have blended some of the best available ingredients in order to guarantee the best possible burn and olfactory experience.”

是的,我们的蜡烛以前是用100%蜜蜡制作,单现在我们肯定不能全靠100%蜜蜡也生产香氛蜡烛,所以我们加入了最好的香料,去保证蜡烛燃烧时可以给人们最好的嗅觉体验。

TCM: Tell us a little about the process that goes into making a Cire Trudone candle.

谈一下Cire Trudone蜡烛的制作过程吧?

JP: “All our ingredients come from traceable sources and are kept in solid form in a tempered warehouse to avoid any alteration and waste.

The wax is melted overnight and the fragrances and added in the morning right before the pouring. It is a 100% manual process; extreme care is given to each product. The candles are poured, the wicks are straightened and the surface smoothed out. All wicks are made out of 100% pure cotton and are perfectly centered and glued to the bottom of each jar. This holds the wax in place and guaranties a quality burn.”

我们所有的香料都具有可追踪性,并且都在温度固定的仓储里存放。制作过程是100%纯手工,每一件产品都给予了别样的呵护。蜡烛被手工倒出,棉芯被轻轻拉直,表面被手工抹平。我们的棉芯是100%纯棉并且完美的粘在玻璃罐底部,居中拉出。这样才能让蜡烛的位置正确,保证燃烧的质量。

 

TCM: Tell us a little about the inspiration behind some of CTs famed scents. The descriptions are quite fascinating. Which is the oldest?

谈谈关于一些Cire Trudon香氛蜡烛的灵感吧。描述都挺有趣的,请问哪个是最古老的?

JP: “Each scent tells us a bit of the Cire Trudon history and French history, since the company lived through the centuries. The Cire Trudon scents try to capture spaces and times reminiscent of strong feelings and powerful imagery. If by ‘oldest’ you mean the first scent to be created, that would be Solis Rex (Roi Soleil).”

每一种香氛蜡烛都代表一点Cire Trudon的历史以及法国历史,因为我们的公司已经存在了几个世纪。Cire Trudon香氛蜡烛想抓住时光和空间上的灵感,通过味道来创造出强烈的情感和有力的画面。如果您从创作年代上来说“最古老”,那就是Solis Rex (太阳之王)了。

 

TCM: What are the 3 most popular candles and which is your favorite scent?

3中最受欢迎的蜡烛是什么?你最喜欢的香氛是哪一种呢?

JP: “The three most popular are Ernesto, Abd el Kader and Roi Soleil. My personal favorites these days are Spiritus Sancti and Chandernagor.”

最受欢迎的三种是Ernesto, Abd el Kader 还有Roi Soleil。我最近个人最爱的是Spiritus Sancti以及Chandernagor

 

 

TextSuzanne Hall via thechalkboardmag.com

Edit/Translate:Sam Shusen GUO


Dec 13,2013 | Share This | 6,628 Comments | Reply

Paris, London, Milan, New York: The old world playgrounds of Prada-clad editors have stayed in the fashion capitals for long enough. In an age of democratized fashion where style bloggers and Tumblr rub shoulders with Roitfelds, we’re demanding fresh blood and new territories. We want change, damnit, and as Twitter-reared youth, we want it now. So to begin, we’ve scoured stylish cities around the world for their brightest visionaries—designers making big waves in their countries that will undoubtedly reach our shores.

巴黎,伦敦,米兰,纽约:这些古老时尚之都已经霸位太久,如今时尚博主带着自己的相机和博客左右时尚的年代,我们需要寻找新鲜血液和新鲜时尚领土。我们需要改变,年轻的我们,现在就要改变。所以,我们开始在全球寻找具有不同时尚视野的时尚先锋设计师,他们在自己的国家已经“兴风作浪”,马上也要席卷我们的时尚海岸线。

 

Seoul-based Steve J. & Yoni P. are the quirky design duo behind the eponymous womenswear label. By injecting whimsy and funk into a high-end sensibility, they’ve arguably become the most celebrated design team in Seoul with a flagship store in the trendy Itaewon district titled, “Two Heads are Better Than One.” They’ve collaborated with movers and shakers like Jeff Koons as well as many influencial buyer's concept store including our very own ALTER Concept Store, they’re well on their way to global recognition.

以首尔为时尚基地的Steve J.&Yoni P. 是其同名女装品牌背后一对古怪的设计二人组。把奇思妙想和FUNK风融入其高端的敏感度设计上,他们已经成为首尔最受关注的设计二人组,并且在时尚的梨泰院区拥有一家旗舰店,被名为“两脑智于一人”。他们还曾和美国艺术家Jeff Koons以及全球极具影响力的买手店包括我们ALTER概念店有合作。他们一路绿灯的开拓着自己的国际市场。

 

The two designers embody the spirit of their brand from Steve J.’s Harry Potter-esque glasses and trim moustache to Yoni P’s platinum blonde hair and coal-rimmed eyes. And as if that isn’t enough, they’re married in real life—a relationship that exudes jubilance and charm which reflects onto their collections.

两位设计师的品牌精神融入了Steve J哈利波特般的眼镜以及精修的小胡子,还有Yoni P的白金色漂染头发以及烟熏眼线。如果这还不够,两人在生活中其实是结婚的一对,一种亲密的相互吸引又充满魅力的二人关系都反应在了他们的设计系列上。

 

BULLETT: How did you meet at start the brand Steve J. & Yoni P.?

你们在创立自己品牌之前是如何相遇的?

YONI P: Actually we met in Korea while studying fashion design and then went to London to study together. I got my M.A. in womenswear from the London College of Fashion while Steve got his M.A. and B.A. in menswear from Central St. Martins. So by the time we started our brand, we had already been together for over ten years.

其实我们在伦敦学习时尚设计的时候认识,后来一起去伦敦学习。我们在伦敦时尚学院获得了女装设计硕士学位,后来又在中央圣马丁获得了男装设计学士学位。所以在我们开始自己的品牌之前,我们已经认识了10年了。

 

What is the design process like with two designers?

两位设计师一起设计的过程是怎么样的?

We don’t really separate our roles in the design process, but Steve does do more of the illustration while I focus more on concepts and design. Since we’ve been together [in a relationship] for so long, we know exactly what each other wants, so we’re pretty in sync all the time.

我们在设计过程中其实不怎么分工,但是Steve更多的是设计稿图,我来做的更多的是概念和设计。既然我们在一起很久了,我们都彼此熟知对方想要的是什么,所以我们做事情的时候基本都是同步的。

 

What woman wears Steve J. & Yoni P.? Who would you like to see your designs on?

什么样的女人穿Steve J.& Yoni P? 你愿意看到什么样的女人穿你们的设计?

We really love that a lot of Korean celebrities and K-Pop stars like singer Hyori Lee and actress Gyuri Kim have worn our clothes.

我们非常喜欢很多韩国的明星以及K-Pop明星比如Hyori Lee以及演员Gyuri Kim都穿过我们的衣服。

 

What’s next for Steve J. & Yoni P.?

接下来Steve J.& Yoni P的发展方向是什么?

For the past three seasons we’ve been showing at Concept Korea during New York Fashion Week and have been getting really good feedback from buyers and the press, so we definitely plan to keep showing in New York. By 2015, we hope to be established as a recognizable designer brand within the global market.

在过去的三季中我们一直都是在纽约时装周展示韩国概念,而且从买手和媒体上来讲我们获得了很多好的反馈,所以我们还是会继续回去纽约展示。在2015年,我们希望在全球建立颇具认可的品牌。

 

Text by Koun Bae via bullettmedia.com

Editing/Translation by Sam Shusen GUO

Dec 11,2013 | Share This | 827 Comments | Reply

In just a few brief years, Danish designer Malene Oddershede Bach has made her way into the London Fashion scene spotlight. Having earned herself a coveted place in Fashion Scout’s One to Watch London showcase back in 2011, Bach’s talents have been steadily gaining global recognition ever since.

仅短短几年的时间,丹麦设计师Malene Oddershede Bach已经在伦敦时装周大放异彩了。自己凭借实力获得了2011年众人艳羡的“时尚侦查员”伦敦必看设计师的位置,从那以后Bach的才华在全世界范围内开始得到认可。

An admitted math nerd, Bach’s intelligent prints are similar in nature to the late abstract painter Wassily Kandinsky’s geometric forms. Prints such as a vibrant neon speckled pattern seen in the designer’s Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, are a highlight of her ready-to-wear women’s line.

Bach承认自己酷爱数学,她充满智慧的印花和Wassily Kandinsky的几何形抽象画非常自然的接近。比如在2013秋冬系列看到的充满活力的霓虹点状印花,可谓是她女装成衣的一大亮点。

Bach’s penchant for structured tailoring excites in its Spring/Summer 2013 form, bolstered by bright colour palette, while the fancy takes on modern trend when paired with flowing feminine fabrics for Autumn/Winter 2013

Bach偏爱其2013年春夏系列中对结构的强调,被亮色块带动起来,而这种时尚感继续带到紧接着下来的秋冬系列中独具女人味的面料中。

Aside from a sleek new collection of separates that pop in cobalt blue and bold reds, the Autumn season will also usher in a new phase in Bach’s career. The designer is moving into accessories, and from what we’ve seen of MOB by Malene Oddershede Bach, the line will receive a glowing reception from the fashion industry and shoppers alike. We’re already pining over the new collection’s leather handbags with metalware detailing!

先不说秋冬新系列中跳跃的钴蓝和大胆的红色,这一季更是Bach职业生涯的新阶段。设计师开始了配饰的设计,从我们看到的MOB by Malene Oddershede Bach,这个系列将会受到时尚行业的强烈追随。我们已经在社交媒体中各种贴她的金属与皮质结合的手袋了!

 

Hot on international style radars, we tracked down Bach to get her thoughts on the speed of her rising star, and what direction she sees it heading in.

具有国际时尚雷达灵敏嗅觉,我们跟随Bach一起了解一下她作为冉冉新星的想法,并了解其今后的发展方向与计划。

LET’S START FROM THE BEGINNING, TELL ME A BIT ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND?

让我们从最初开始,谈谈您的工作背景吧?

I was born in Denmark and brought up on a farm. I lived a fairly isolated life, spending my spare time playing football and horse riding. At 19, after finishing school I decided to move to London for 6 months, as I was unsure as to what to study. Needless to say, months turned into years after falling in love with London, and later realizing I wanted to pursue a career in the creatives.

我生于丹麦,在农场长大。我过着很独立的生活,喜欢足球和骑马。19岁时,我结束学业决定去伦敦居住6个月的时间,当时我也不确定学习什么。不用说,几个月的时间变成了几年的时间然后我就爱上了伦敦,后来我就意识到我想在创意方面追求自己的职业。

SO FASHION BECAME A PART OF YOUR LIFE WHEN YOU MOVED TO LONDON, OR DID YOUR PASSION FOR IT ACTUALLY BEGIN BEFORE YOU OFFICIALLY BEGAN TO PURSUE IT AS A CAREER?

时尚变成了你搬到伦敦之后的生命的一部分,还是在您决定追求该事业之前就已经对之充满热爱了?

I’m from the outskirts of a small town with only a few shops, so to prevent turning up in the same outfit as my friends, I early on starting rummaging around in the charity shops my Gran ran, to come up with more creative ways around that. When I played football, I was always known as the girl with the fishnet or teacher bag as my handbag.

我来自一个很小的城镇,有很少的商店。所以为了不和我的朋友们穿的一样的衣服,我要很早的就去慈善商店四处翻找,想要获得更多的有创造力的想法。当我踢足球的时候,大家都知道我是那个带着渔网或者教师包围手包的女孩。

 

WITH SUCH A NATURAL KNACK FOR FASHION, YOU NEVER CONSIDERED IT AS A CAREER WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER?

您在时尚行业那么具有天赋,年轻的时候有没有想过做设计师呢?

I never thought about fashion as a career when I was a child. I had never met anyone going down that path being from a small town. I did lots if sewing when I was younger, but it wasn’t until after moving to London that it clicked.

当我是个孩子的时候我从来没有想过去做时尚设计师。我在我们那个小镇从来没有遇见过任何成为设计师的人。我年轻一些的时候确实做过很多缝纫工作,但还是当我搬到伦敦的时候才真正的被激发了。

 

YES IT CERTAINLY HAS CLICKED! IN JUST A FEW SHORT YEARS, YOU’VE REALLY DEVELOPED YOUR CLOTHING LINE, AND NOW YOU’RE MOVING INTO ACCESSORIES, NO?

是的您的创造力真的被激发了!就在短短的几年内,您就真的做出了自己的成衣系列,现在您也开始做配饰设计?

It’s been really good so far, and for AW13 we’re launching our accessory line MOB by Malene Oddershede Bach, focused mainly around handbags. We tested some simple printed clutch bags the season before, but have always wanted to go down the route of accompanying the RTW collection with a proper handbag line. I am a bit of a perfectionist and don’t like to do anything halfhearted, so the bags were a natural route to go down, and we’ve received a great response for the first collection. It will be a line we’re looking to develop further for seasons to come.

从开始到现在一直都很顺利,2013年秋冬我们要发布新的配饰系列名为MOB by Malene Oddershede Bach,主要是手包的设计。我有点完美主义所以我不愿意三心二意的做一些事情,所以手包是一个很自然的选择,我们的第一季已经有了很好的市场反馈,我们会在接下来的季节里设计更多的包包。

 

AND THERE ARE SHOES AS WELL I UNDERSTAND?

而且我记得还有鞋子的设计?

We did a shoe collaboration with Gold Dot (Solestruck and Karmaloop US) creating shoes for the collection. We have done shoes for a couple of seasons now, and it is something we would love to develop, but still working in finding the right factories at the right quality and prices.

我们和Gold Dot合作设计了鞋子系列。我们现在鞋子已经做了好几季了,这是我们很愿意去发展的方向。但是我们还在寻找更好的厂商去生产最好的质量以最优的价格。

IN TERMS OF YOUR GREATER DESIGN AESTHETIC, DO YOUR DANISH ROOTS FIND THEIR WAY INTO YOUR FASHION VISION?

您宏观的审美标准来看,您丹麦的出身背景是否影响到了你的审美呢?

I am sure they do one way or another, but it’s a little hard for me to point out exactly how. Having grown up on a farm, I am a big fan of nature and this is often a starting point for the prints in the collection. Recently they have however taken a slight more scientific route as we have collaborated with professors and scientists at the UCL developing, growing and photographing cells, of which the result we have manipulated in to the final designs.

那肯定是或多或少的有影响了,但是现在让我非常明确的指出来不是很容易的。我自己在农场里长大,一直都迷恋自然,这已经是我自己设计系列的出发点了。最近开始和科学家和教授的UCL发展合作,培育并拍摄细胞,最后我们把这些利用在我们最后的设计中。

 

MAKES SENSE THAT YOUR PRINTS READ SO INTELLECTUAL. SO YOU’RE INTO SCIENCE THEN I TAKE IT?

这就是为什么你的印花设计看起来很有智慧性。那么我想您是热爱科学的?

Had I not found fashion, I would most likely have studied Maths; I like the scientific work behind it, and that it is not just a picture of some flower that I copied off some book.

如果没有从事时尚行业,我很有可能就去研究数学了;我喜欢背后的科学工作,这可不仅仅是我从一本书上简单拷贝走的几朵花束而已。

 

AS SO MANY OTHER PEOPLE DO, HA. WHY HAVE YOUR CHOSEN LONDON AS YOUR HOME BASE?

有这么多的地方可以选择,为什么偏爱伦敦?

I made London my home before starting doing fashion. I fell in love with it on my first visit (family holiday), and for me moving back to Denmark would be like moving to any other country to base my business, as I would not know my whereabouts within the industry like I do in London.

 

IT’S A VIBRANT CITY, FULL OF CREATIVITY.

这是一个具有活力的城市,充满创造力。

I find the feeling of always having the option of going to a gig, exhibition or any other happening very attractive, even though I rarely have the time to make use of it.

 

THOUGH YOU SAY YOU DON’T GET A CHANCE TO GO OUT MUCH, WHAT WOULD YOU SAY IS YOUR BIGGEST INFLUENCE OUTSIDE OF FASHION?

您也说了您不经常出去,那么您在时尚以外最受影响的是什么?

Nature, science, and different techniques used to develop arts and crafts. I like objects/matters that have evolved from processes that might not be possible to the human eye.

 

AND HOW DOES THAT RELATE TO YOUR LATEST COLLECTION, WHAT YOUR INSPIRATION THIS SEASON?

这和您最新的设计有什么关系?您这一季的灵感是什么?

The print for AW13 was created via a collaboration with a professor at the UCL. The print is normally the starting point and the rest of the fabrics and collection itself then evolves around this. I looked into a lot of techniques and cuts that were used in the past by looking at vintage/second hand clothes, and took bits and pieces, and then made it my own.

 

DO YOU OFTEN LOOK TO THE PAST WHEN SEEKING INSPIRATION?

您在寻找灵感的时候会不会回顾自己的过去?

I am a strong believer that everything has been done before, and it is more of a matter of doing a garment in a new way. Standard shirt with a cut out at the chest for example.

 

IF YOU COULD PICK ANYONE (DEAD OR ALIVE) TO WEAR A PIECE FROM YOUR COLLECTIONS, WHO WOULD IT BE AND WHICH PIECE WOULD YOU HAVE THEM WEAR?

如果你选一个人(在世或者过世都可以)来穿您的设计,会是谁? 会让她穿什么?

My mother. She is a very difficult customer. However, season upon season she is getting more and more in to it and has actually ordered both shirts and handbags from the collections. Even my grandmother wants one of the bags. That’s something I thought would never happen, but am over the moon that I have succeeded in creating something that can be used outside our standard target audience, reaching women of all ages.

 

THAT’S A FEAT! ANY DESIGNERS OUT THERE THAT HAVE INSPIRED YOU?

有没有其他的设计师影响到你?

I don’t gain inspiration from other designers work. I think it is important to know what is going on around you, but still important to leave your design process as organic as possible without any influences from specific designers. I would hate if my designs looks like another designer, and this is something I’m very conscious about throughout the design process.

 

I CAN TELL FROM THE DISTINCT STYLE OF YOUR DESIGNS. SPEAKING OF WHICH, CAN YOU TALK A BIT ABOUT YOUR TAKE ON THE SUIT?

我可以非常明显的看出来你的设计风格。那么您能谈一下你设计套装的想法吗?
Our suits started out as a printed suits, however we are now doing both plain and printed suits based on the same cut. The printed suits from AW has proven very popular. It’s a fitted tailored pant with signature press fold down the front and back of the leg with a generous sized blazer that allows for movement and jumpers to be worn alongside it. All made in a printed silk mix finished with a reflective finish, which is the shine.

LOVE THAT PIECE, IT’S VERSATILE.

大爱那一件,很好搭。

I find it that a printed suit can be a massive statement piece, but also split down and styled with say plain trousers.

 

FINAL QUESTION: WHAT’S SOMETHING WE CAN LOOK FORWARD TO FROM MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH?

最后一个问题:我们对于Malene Oddershede Bach这个牌子的未来,会有哪些期待?

Hopefully there will be a show on the cards for SS14. Apart from that, further development on the bags and perhaps even a new print technique that will take the prints down a slightly different route!

Interview text/Pictures via: fillermagazine.com

Editing/Translation: Sam Shusen GUO


Dec 09,2013 | Share This | 12 Comments | Reply

 

 

 

As anyone worth their sartorial salt will know, Mother of Pearl is not only a jewellery component favoured by the middle aged, it’s also the name of an ultra cool fashion brand renowned for its unique take on haute sport chic. Founded by Maia Norman (AKA Mrs Damien Hirst), Mother of Pearl boasts major style and art credentials thanks to it’s talent for combining high fashion with wearability and seasonal artist collaborations.

 

I caught up with MOP’s Head Designer, Amy Powney, to get the inside scoop on this one-of-a-kind label…

随着越来越多的人开始认识到,Mother of Pearl不再是受中年人青睐的珠宝品牌了,它也是一个以其独特的高级运动别致风的超酷的时尚品牌。由马亚诺曼(又名杜达米安·赫斯特)创立,Mother of Pearl拥有主要的风格和艺术感,得益于它结合高级时装与耐穿性和季节性的艺术家合作。

我遇见了MOP的首席设计师,Amy Powney,来获取一点独家的内幕信息

 


LPA: What was your first job in fashion? And how did you get from there to your current position?

您在时尚界的第一份工作室什么?您是如何从那里到现在这个职位?

Amy: My first full time job in the industry was for Mother of Pearl. I have been working here since I graduated and five seasons ago took over as head of design.

我第一份全职工作就是在MOP。我从毕业就在这里工作至今已经五季了,到现在成为首席设计师。

 

LPA: You’re now in your fifth season as Head Designer at Mother of Pearl. Do you feel the brands aesthetic has changed or developed at all since you came on board?

您现在掌管MOF的第五季设计,你认为品牌的审美是否有些变化?从您加入之后有了那些发展?

Amy: Having been with Mother of Pearl for a long while, I have seen the transformations of the brand and was able to understand Maia’s direction. When taking over as head of design I had a real grasp of where it should be which enabled me to move the design on to where it is now. I feel the brand has found its aesthetic and concept that is proving to be a success!

在这里工作了很久,我看到了品牌的转变以及Maia的方向。当我成为首席设计师的时候,我非常了解设计的方向,我觉得我们的品牌已经找到了自己的审美和自己的概念,而且现在非常成功!

 

LPA: Each season MOP collaborates with an acclaimed artist to produce the prints for the collection. How do you choose which artist to work with?

每一季的MOP都会和知名的艺术家合作设计设计印花和系列。你是怎么选择艺术家的呢?

Amy: Maia picks the initial artists and then we sit down, look at the options and decide whom we both feel would work for the coming season. It’s a great process as we both can look at the work from different viewpoints, Maia is submerged in the art world and has a great knowledge for the artists and their work and I will look at the translation of the work to print, fabrics and my inspiration for the collection which makes for a perfect combination in the initial design phase.

Maia先选择一些艺术家,然后我们一起坐下,看看有哪些选择燃火一起决定我们两人都感到对下一季合适的艺术家。这是一个非常好的过程因为我们两个一起工作有不同的视野和想法,Maia对艺术很有见解,别且对艺术家都很了解,而我就是把艺术家的作品转嫁到印花和布料上,创造一个完美的设计融合结果。

LPA: What do you think of the relationship between art and fashion? In your opinion can, or should, fashion be considered a form of art?

你认为艺术和时尚的关系是什么?在你的想法中,你觉得时尚应该被认为是一种艺术吗?

Amy: Having worked closely with both fashion art art, it always surprises me how little each industry knows of the other which instantly shows how different they are. However, of course the have common links, they are both visual, creative and in cases conceptual. They both derive from a set of first hand ideas and creative inspirations and both can be looked at from both a creative viewpoint and more commercial viewpoints. At Mother of Pearl we are creating a concept, an aesthetic but mostly when I am designing for the brand I am always thinking about the final piece and would therefore relate it very strongly to product design as well as an art form, but perhaps, not art!

个人经常在艺术和时尚之间工作,我非常惊讶不同行业之间的差别是如此的大!当然他们会有相同点,她们都很视觉化,有创造力并且很有概念性。两个行业都可以从第一手的想法和创造灵感上观察,并且两者都能从创造视角和商业视角观察。在MOP,我们是创造一种概念,一种审美,当我设计的时候我总会在思考最终的成品会很有力的反应出艺术形式,但是,可能并不是艺术品!

LPA: Mother of Pearl has always been renowned for combining sportswear with high fashion. Now sports luxe is suddenly being feted as one of this seasons “biggest trends”! Do you think that the fact athletic style is everywhere from Victoria Beckham to Topshop will have any impact on MOP?

MOP总是因其运动装和高端时尚的结合而著称。现在运动奢侈突然变成了当下最火的流行趋势!你认为运动风从Victoria BeckhamTopshop遍布各地会不会影响到MOP

Amy: I am sure that the new trend of sports luxe hitting the season’s top trends will have an impact, and help with the brands growth in the public eye. What’s great about Mother of Pearl is that with our seasonal collaboration with artists we can reinvent what we do with each collection so even if the sports trend moves on, Mother of Pearl will continue creating something new and evolving each season.

我就肯定运动奢侈风会有很大的影响,会影响到品牌在公众的目光下成长。MOP比较好的地方是每一季和艺术家的合作,我们可以重新创造我们的每一季,即便是运动风在发展着,我们MOP也会继续创造新的具有创造力的每一季新品。

Via: ella-lapetiteanglaise.com

Editing/Chinese: Sam Shusen GUO

Dec 06,2013 | Share This | 8 Comments | Reply

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