Teresa Abrunhosa is a brand new fashion label created by its homonymous designer.
A powerful idea of femininity, captured by strong and sensuous shapes, marks the driving force in the aesthetics of the brand. Teresa Abrunhosa creates for a market that seeks effortless elegance, style and empowering sensuality. This paramount concept is curated by the designer and creative director’s academic background in Fine Arts in Porto and Milano, that also inspired her work as an illustrator. While still currently finishing a degree in fashion design at Modatex, this up and coming portuguese fashion designer had already worked in womenswear at the label Pedro Pedro, before launching her own project.
TERESA ABRUNHOSA是一个极具女性力量感的新兴品牌，强烈性感的廓型是品牌美学的驱动力。Teresa Abrunhosa 打造了一个渴求轻盈优雅、风尚和积极影响力的市场。设计师在波尔多和米兰学习工艺美术的背景也曾激发她尝试插画家的工作。这位初露锋芒的葡萄牙时装设计师目前仍然在Modatex学习服装设计，并同时在Pedro Pedro 旗下的女装品牌工作，之后才发布了她自己的设计课题。
This collection encapsulates the delicate feel of a warm summer breeze in its light and sheer fabrics, such as chiffon and crepe, ornamented with exquisite leather and sequin details. This sensory element is also evoked by the colors in its vibrant palette. That features fuchsia, lime, and different shades blue from the most intense to the softer aqua blue.
The designs celebrate the feminine form, with bodycon dresses and tight silhouettes, adorned with unforeseen cut outs, and combined with black and white graphic prints, coupled with mirages of automobiles inspired by sports car design.
Chinese/Editing: Sam Shusen GUO
Last Saturday at ALTER, we celebrated the lunching of INÉS FIGAREDO the new collection. Ever since ALTER founder &CEO Miss Sonja Long discovered this brand in Paris Le Bristol Hotel this September, she is determined to bring this beautiful craftsmanship and new concept in female luxury to China, to Asia.
Since 2011, INÉS FIGAREDO conscientiously explores the design of handbags as a form of artistic expression, recovering the tradition of high leatherwork and Spanish Goldwork, the delicacy of the embroidery and handmade sculpture techniques as strong allies of this infinite creativity to bring to life small, unrepeatable and genuine pieces, enduring, worthy of being displayed outside the windows and shared as a legacy: Purse-art.
Invited media, fashion bloggers, VIP guests enjoyed this collection very much. Taking photos, asking questions, striking poses with their favorite bags, posting online… and of course, quite a few ALTER guests ordered some of the most demanded INÉS FIGAREDO bags right at the event.
The 2014 Collection “FEELINGS” is an explosion of creativity only restrained to give freedom to her clients’ sentiments. Each handbag invites to a different thought. All of them are just perfect, incredibly manufactured. The virtuosism of finishes, the delicate use of skins and the originality of each piece really mean a reborn of INES FIGAREDO, reaching a level of maturity which no longer has comparable references in the market.
In the collection the firm dares to play with human hair, mirrors and even rips tissues offering challenges and searching for a dialogue with her clients.
But in addition to the new collection, it has also reissued the iconic model “Hamlet”, covered by more than a thousand crystals SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Indisputably, an INÉS FIGAREDO woman has personality and will be conveying a message.
Text/Editing by Sam Shusen GUO
Born and raised in Denmark, Anne Sofie Madsen graduated from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design. She then trained under John Galliano for Dior in Paris and worked for trend forcasters Peclers, before moving to London to work for Alexander McQueen as a Junior Designer. In 2010 she established her own brand and has had runway shows in Copenhagen, London, New York City, and Saint Petersburg. She also had been asked to showcase her work with Italian Vogue in Milan.
生于丹麦，Anne Sofie Madsen从丹麦皇家艺术设计学院毕业。她在巴黎跟随John Galliano培训，然后为潮流预测师Peclers工作，后来她搬到伦敦跟随Alexander Mcqueen做初级设计师。2010年她建立了自己的品牌，在哥本哈根、伦敦、纽约以及圣彼得堡走秀。她也被意大利《VOGUE》邀请在米兰展示自己的设计。
Along with the firm she has been giving lectures, in line with being an external examiner, at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design. She has lectured about the design process and the generation of innovation. Along with the development of two annual clothing collections, Anne Sofie Madsen also works as an illustrator, and her work has been published in a range of Danish and international magazines and books.
除了她自己的公司之外，她还在自己的母校丹麦皇家艺术设计学院做讲座。她传授自己设计的过程以及这创新的一代。随着她两年衣服系列的发展，Anne Sofie Madsen也作为一名插画师工作。她的作品被一系列的丹麦杂志和国际杂志及书籍刊登。
FilepMotwary: You worked with two legendary British designers, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, before you launched your own brand. How was your experience within each of the Houses, considering of how powerful they were at the time in both presenting truly innovative ideas and magnificent conceptual shows?
在您成立自己的品牌之前，您曾经和两位最传奇的英国设计师一起工作，John Galliano和Alexander Mcqueen, 在两家工作的经历有什么不同感受吗？毕竟两位当时是在真正意义上的创新设计以及带来概念性很强的秀。
Anne Sofie Madsen: I’ll guess one the two places where as different as night and day but for me an extraordinary thing they had in common was the art of storytelling. I also learned something very important about myself – the greatest motivation for me as a fashion designer was to have my own name on the neck label.
FM: How did those experiences helped you form your own aesthetics?
ASM:I learned something very important about myself – the greatest motivation for me as a fashion designer was to have my own name on the neck label. If not formed, clear your own vision towards design and fashion in general.
The point, where fashion replaces the body with something abstract – an idea or ideal instead of an organism, fascinates me. I am interested in the way a silhouette can affect the body and the surrounding space and how materials, shapes and proportions are able to generate a body language.
The idea of Animism always plays a role in my collections – to capture and save something like soul in each style. I am really interested in the contrasts and borders between “primitive” and “civilized” – between nature and culture. I suppose it reflects our relationship towards body and sexuality.
FM:Also, I find your illustrations very impressive. Do you still practice drawing?
ASM: I really like to draw and I still work as an illustrator. I mainly do graphic novels and youth books and have had 8 books published since 2011. I work a lot with illustrations in the prints as well. I used to do fashion illustrations for different magazines, but at the moment I can’t find the time.
FM:How difficult it was for you to launch your collection in such a difficult period?
ASM: I’ll guess it has been difficult and will be for a while. My company is still developing and resources are limited, but over the last two years I have seen a growing interest from both press and buyers.
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last? How does really longevity mean in this business?
ASM:You have to dare to be original and at the same time always dare to reinvent yourself.
FM: Why did you choose to work with women and not men?
ASM: I am not sure. I suppose all my fashion heroes where womenswear designers, when I became interested in fashion. I must admit it has changed since then – where I come from, some of the most interesting designers are menswear designers.
… a true bedouin artist that uses his past and new experiences to shape his work.
Bernard Delettrez is something of an enigma. A quiet, well travelled man who prefers to let his jewellery speak for itself. After 30 years of designing, his unique pieces do just that! Always willing to go the extra mile, Bernard prefers to mix a prize gem with materials that are both complex and surprising to continue a lifelong fascination. Born in Casablanca but raised in Paris, this world citizen’s fascination for all things precious led him to California where he studied at the Gemological Institute of America. Impulse led him to Brazil to manage a friend’s emerald mine in the late 70s and just two years later Bernard owned his own mine and was designing for prestigious houses like H. Stern. The nineties brought change again, and after building a successful empire he sold it all to sail around the world, a trip that lasted almost 10 years. Now settled in Rome, Bernard focuses on designing his own jewellery for his eclectic, free-spirited and devoted clients. His ever-expanding avant-garde taste is a continuous life pursuit that takes him from his palazzo in Rome, to his house in Kenya and everywhere in-between on a constant search’s for the rare and the beautiful.
Nothing inspires me like…
a sunny morning in Rome, women’s dresses in Africa, an old cemetery in Paris, a winters night in Prague, and walking alone in the Kenyan desert.
my life will continue to surprise me in countless new ways.
a mixture of North African nomadism and a certain French ‘je-ne-sais-quoi’, add fifteen years of living in South America, a yearly retreat in Kenya and three voyages around the world sailing on my boat.
I got where I am…
because I am a perfectionist, because I love what I do, and because I’m not afraid of taking risks and always following my instinct.
Fashion can sometimes…
liberate or ensnare you. Either way, I always prefer to explore the uncharted territories, more so if it mean going in the exact opposite directions dictated by so called trends.
Creativity comes from…
an open mind and the ability to experience everything like a child.
If I could…
I would do it all over again
My dreams are…
to continue to evolve creatively, to learn from great thinkers, to visit and be inspired by places I have not yet been.
My future is…
My vice is…
there are many!
I’m a perfectionist…
because I am never truly satisfied. I crave new challenges and believe there is always room for improvement.
is to enjoy the ride to the fullest.
I like making…
something that has never been done before. Like creating an object or a piece of jewellery with my bare hands.
I love getting older…
because when you are twenty years old, you long to get older. When you are three times that, age simply becomes overrated, but only if you’ve managed to keep a youthful heart and core spirit intact.
When I visited the Inés Figaredo showroom at the Bristol in Paris this weekend, I wasn’t sure what I’d find. I had not heard of her (she launched her collection in 2011). But as soon as I walked up to one of her bags, I felt a tide of excitement rush over me. Her bags are fun, crazy and beautiful in a Dali-esque kind of way… which seems to be the chicest kind of crazy these days. I’ve noticed lots of eyeballs (Kenzo), hands with red lacquered nails (Delfina Delattraz) and huge cursive writting (Lanvin) popping up on prints or incorporated into jewelry recently.
当我本周末在巴黎Bristol拜访Inés Figaredo的展厅时，我还不太确定我会看到什么。我还没有听说过她，（她2011年才发布自己的第一个系列）。但是当我一接近她一个包包时，我就感到了浑身的激动。她的包包有趣，疯狂，又有点萨尔瓦多·达利般的超现实主义美感。感觉非常符合当下最时髦的疯狂流行元素。我注意到了很多的眼球（Kenzo本季很常见）, 带着红漆色指甲的手（Delfina Delattraz最流行的元素）以及巨大的草书手写（Lanvin主打）出现在印花上，还有最近和珠宝品牌的合作。
I’m for anything that lends a little humor to fashion. Which means I was completely intrigued by the handbags of Inés Figaredo. They are clearly very fashionable, but they are also wearable (and collectible) works of art. Her accessories are more objects than bags: a golden cage with a little tuxedoed man inside it, golden hands and feet with changeable fingernails, several styles with eyes on them, a precious little girl face that is happy on one side and sad on the other or just a big, shiny, red enamel apple or a beautiful golden carousel topped by a chic black lizard top (the handbag).
我喜欢任何能给时尚带来一丝幽默感的事物。这就意味着我完全被Inés Figaredo的包吸引。这些包非常明显是真的很时尚，但是又非常的具有可穿戴性质，甚至可收藏性的艺术作品。她所选用的 配饰比包包本身更具有吸引力：一个金色的笼子里锁着一位穿着燕尾服的男士；金手掌和脚丫具有可以更换的指甲；很多种带有眼睛的风格；一个珍贵的女孩脸部包一面是开心，另一面是伤心；一个又大又亮又红的珐琅苹果；还有一个美丽的金色旋转木马上面配了别致的黑色蜥蜴顶冠（手包造型）。
Sad Small Face Giovanna Battaglia with her favorite bag… it’s happy on the other side!
伤心小脸包Giovanna Battaglia 和她最爱的一款，另一面是开心哦！
Turning the tables: a caged man.
Two things we often put in our mouths…
I loved them all. Okay, there was one satchel with fifty eyeballs peeking out from under the mop of frizzy white hair scared me, but that was the point. It was very “Lady Gaga”… but she apparently choose the Swarovski skull bag that looks like mini portable Damien Hirst:
Swarovski Skull Bag
As trendy as “weird” and over-the-top are right now, these bags transcend trendiness. Each bag’s uniqueness is defined not only by its imaginative beauty, but also by the incredible workmanship that goes into each piece. The way gold meets leather or how stones are sewn into silk and then trimmed by metal makes them precious. These bags are timeless.
The best I can do to compare Inés to another handbag designer is to say she is like a Dadaist Judith Leiber. If you wear one of her bags it may very well get more attention than you, kind of like walking around with an adorable chubby-cheeked baby on your hip.
如果硬是要拿Inés和另一位设计师比较的话，那我会说是Dadaist Judith Leiber。如果你配搭了她的某一款包包，也许这个包包会比你本人获得更多的注意力，就好比你把一个非常可爱的胖脸蛋娃娃挂在了腰上走来走去。
Speaking of babies, Inés Figaredo’s bags will be very popular with the kids. First of all because they look like toys, and secondly, because they are all bags that you will keep forever and hand down to the next generation.
I will be investing in one of these bags soon, I just need to figure out which one… and how to keep my three-year-old daughter from stealing it out of my closet.
Text/Picture Via: http://www.thepeopleilike.com
Edit/Chinese: Sam Shusen GUO
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