Teresa Abrunhosa is a brand new fashion label created by its homonymous designer.

Teresa Abrunhosa是葡萄牙新锐设计师品牌,柔美性感的女性力量。

 

A powerful idea of femininity, captured by strong and sensuous shapes, marks the driving force in the aesthetics of the brand. Teresa Abrunhosa creates for a market that seeks effortless elegance, style and empowering sensuality. This paramount concept is curated by the designer and creative director’s academic background in Fine Arts in Porto and Milano, that also inspired her work as an illustrator. While still currently finishing a degree in fashion design at Modatex, this up and coming portuguese fashion designer had already worked in womenswear at the label Pedro Pedro, before launching her own project.

TERESA ABRUNHOSA是一个极具女性力量感的新兴品牌,强烈性感的廓型是品牌美学的驱动力。Teresa Abrunhosa 打造了一个渴求轻盈优雅、风尚和积极影响力的市场。设计师在波尔多和米兰学习工艺美术的背景也曾激发她尝试插画家的工作。这位初露锋芒的葡萄牙时装设计师目前仍然在Modatex学习服装设计,并同时在Pedro Pedro 旗下的女装品牌工作,之后才发布了她自己的设计课题。

 

This collection encapsulates the delicate feel of a warm summer breeze in its light and sheer fabrics, such as chiffon and crepe, ornamented with exquisite leather and sequin details. This sensory element is also evoked by the colors in its vibrant palette. That features fuchsia, lime, and different shades blue from the most intense to the softer aqua blue.

2014春夏系列用诸如雪纺和绉纱的轻盈透明的面料,概括了温暖夏日清风拂面的精妙柔美感,并在细节之处饰以细腻精致的牛皮和珠绣。这种感官上的特色还由生机勃勃的色彩所激发:紫红色、柠檬色和不同明暗的由深至浅的蓝色。

 

The designs celebrate the feminine form, with bodycon dresses and tight silhouettes, adorned with unforeseen cut outs, and combined with black and white graphic prints, coupled with mirages of automobiles inspired by sports car design.

设计形式上推崇充满女人味的质感,诸如修身连衣裙和紧身廓型,并以不可预知的镂空作装饰,结合了黑白图形印花,和灵感源于跑车的天马行空的汽车图案设计。

Chinese/Editing: Sam Shusen GUO

Dec 26,2013 | Share This | 5 Comments | Reply

Last Saturday at ALTER, we celebrated the lunching of INÉS FIGAREDO the new collection. Ever since ALTER founder &CEO Miss Sonja Long discovered this brand in Paris Le Bristol Hotel this September, she is determined to bring this beautiful craftsmanship and new concept in female luxury to China, to Asia.

上周六在ALTER,我们庆祝了INÉS FIGAREDO新系列的登陆。自从ALTER的创始人兼CEO龙霄女士今年九月份在巴黎布里斯托尔酒店发现了该品牌,她就一心要将之带到中国,带向亚洲。

 

Since 2011, INÉS FIGAREDO conscientiously explores the design of handbags as a form of artistic expression, recovering the tradition of high leatherwork and Spanish Goldwork, the delicacy of the embroidery and handmade sculpture techniques as strong allies of this infinite creativity to bring to life small, unrepeatable and genuine pieces, enduring, worthy of being displayed outside the windows and shared as a legacy: Purse-art.

2011年创立以来,INÉS FIGAREDO就致力于从艺术表达角度探索手包的设计,重塑西班牙高级皮具制作以及铸金技术,刺绣技术以及手工雕刻技术,让这些创造力转化成生命中那些微小的,不可被复制的天才般的作品,不管是陈列在橱窗里,放置在家中,还是随身佩戴着,这都可以称得上是一种传奇般的箱包艺术。

 

Invited media, fashion bloggers, VIP guests enjoyed this collection very much. Taking photos, asking questions, striking poses with their favorite bags, posting online… and of course, quite a few ALTER guests ordered some of the most demanded INÉS FIGAREDO bags right at the event.

获邀媒体,时尚博主,VIP客人对这一系列甚是喜欢。他们不停的拍照,好奇的问着问题,拿着他们最喜爱的几款凹出造型,发布到社交媒体上……当然还有很多ALTER客人现场就忍不住订购了几款他们最爱的包包。

 

The 2014 Collection “FEELINGS” is an explosion of creativity only restrained to give freedom to her clients’ sentiments. Each handbag invites to a different thought. All of them are just perfect, incredibly manufactured. The virtuosism of finishes, the delicate use of skins and the originality of each piece really mean a reborn of INES FIGAREDO, reaching a level of maturity which no longer has comparable references in the market.

这一2014系列名为“情感(Feelings)”,除了为表达设计师的客人的真实情感之外,没有什么能够局限设计创造力的爆发了。每一件都堪称完美,其手工艺技巧令人惊叹。技艺精湛的做工,对皮质的完美运用,每一件都极具原创性,这些都堪称是INÉS FIGAREDO的重生,品牌达到了成熟的阶段,已经在市场上找不到具有可比性的产品了。

In the collection the firm dares to play with human hair, mirrors and even rips tissues offering challenges and searching for a dialogue with her clients.

本系列大胆的使用真人头发,镜面甚至撕裂的皮质来挑战审美,寻找和客户之间的对话。

 

But in addition to the new collection, it has also reissued the iconic model “Hamlet”, covered by more than a thousand crystals SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Indisputably, an INÉS FIGAREDO woman has personality and will be conveying a message.  

当然除了这一季新的系列,他们还重新发布了极具代表性的“骷髅头”包,镶嵌了1000多个施华洛世奇水晶的骷髅头包。无可否认的是,穿戴INÉS FIGAREDO的女性拥有独特的个性,而且将会传达出一种讯息。

Text/Editing by Sam Shusen GUO

Dec 24,2013 | Share This | 25 Comments | Reply

Born and raised in Denmark, Anne Sofie Madsen graduated from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design. She then trained under John Galliano for Dior in Paris and worked for trend forcasters Peclers, before moving to London to work for Alexander McQueen as a Junior Designer. In 2010 she established her own brand and has had runway shows in Copenhagen, London, New York City, and Saint Petersburg. She also had been asked to showcase her work with Italian Vogue in Milan.

生于丹麦,Anne Sofie Madsen从丹麦皇家艺术设计学院毕业。她在巴黎跟随John Galliano培训,然后为潮流预测师Peclers工作,后来她搬到伦敦跟随Alexander Mcqueen做初级设计师。2010年她建立了自己的品牌,在哥本哈根、伦敦、纽约以及圣彼得堡走秀。她也被意大利《VOGUE》邀请在米兰展示自己的设计。

Along with the firm she has been giving lectures, in line with being an external examiner, at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design. She has lectured about the design process and the generation of innovation. Along with the development of two annual clothing collections, Anne Sofie Madsen also works as an illustrator, and her work has been published in a range of Danish and international magazines and books.

除了她自己的公司之外,她还在自己的母校丹麦皇家艺术设计学院做讲座。她传授自己设计的过程以及这创新的一代。随着她两年衣服系列的发展,Anne Sofie Madsen也作为一名插画师工作。她的作品被一系列的丹麦杂志和国际杂志及书籍刊登。

FilepMotwary: You worked with two legendary British designers, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, before you launched your own brand. How was your experience within each of the Houses, considering of how powerful they were at the time in both presenting truly innovative ideas and magnificent conceptual shows?

在您成立自己的品牌之前,您曾经和两位最传奇的英国设计师一起工作,John GallianoAlexander Mcqueen, 在两家工作的经历有什么不同感受吗?毕竟两位当时是在真正意义上的创新设计以及带来概念性很强的秀。

Anne Sofie Madsen: I’ll guess one the two places where as different as night and day but for me an extraordinary thing they had in common was the art of storytelling. I also learned something very important about myself – the greatest motivation for me as a fashion designer was to have my own name on the neck label.

 

我觉得首先两家的不同简直是白昼和黑夜的不同啊,但是对我来说他们最伟大的相同之处是他们都有一种讲述故事的艺术风格。我也了解自己更深层的一面内心想要做一位时装设计师,让自己的名字出现在衣服颈部的标签上,这样一种强烈的动力。

FM: How did those experiences helped you form your own aesthetics?

这些经历怎么帮助你形成自己的审美?

ASM:I learned something very important about myself – the greatest motivation for me as a fashion designer was to have my own name on the neck label. If not formed, clear your own vision towards design and fashion in general.

我了解到了自己比较强的一面,那就是成为一名独立的设计师,让自己的名字出现在衣服颈部标签上。如果没有形成,那就从整体上清理一下你自己关于设计和时尚的一面。

The point, where fashion replaces the body with something abstract – an idea or ideal instead of an organism, fascinates me. I am interested in the way a silhouette can affect the body and the surrounding space and how materials, shapes and proportions are able to generate a body language.

关键就是,当时尚代替了身体变成了一种抽象的物体时,比如一种想法或者完美,令我着迷。我对能够体现身体的廓型非常着迷,以及环绕在我身边的空间,物质,形态和比例,它们可以变出一种肢体语言。

The idea of Animism always plays a role in my collections – to capture and save something like soul in each style. I am really interested in the contrasts and borders between “primitive” and “civilized” – between nature and culture. I suppose it reflects our relationship towards body and sexuality.

“万物有灵”论一直在我的系列中扮演着重要角色会想着要抓住或者留住任一形式的某物的灵魂。我对“原始”和“文明”之间的界限和对比很感兴趣,也就是在自然和文化之间。我觉得这能够反应我们的身体和性欲。

FM:Also, I find your illustrations very impressive. Do you still practice drawing?

还有,我发现你的插画很有感染力。你还在练习绘画?

ASM: I really like to draw and I still work as an illustrator. I mainly do graphic novels and youth books and have had 8 books published since 2011. I work a lot with illustrations in the prints as well. I used to do fashion illustrations for different magazines, but at the moment I can’t find the time.

我非常喜欢绘画,我现在也做插画师的工作。我现在主要是为绘画小说以及青年读者书籍工作,而且我从2011年开始至今已经出版了8本书了,但现在的问题是我没有太多时间去做这些了。

FM:How difficult it was for you to launch your collection in such a difficult period?

您在如此艰难的时期是如何发布自己的设计系列?

ASM: I’ll guess it has been difficult and will be for a while. My company is still developing and resources are limited, but over the last two years I have seen a growing interest from both press and buyers.

我想这一直都是很艰难的,而且也会持续一段时间。我的公司还在发展,资源又很有限,但是在过去的两年我现在已经看到了从媒体到买手对我设计的兴趣日益增长着。

FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last? How does really longevity mean in this business?

作为一名设计师如何让自己的设计永葆青春?对于经营来讲“长寿”意味着什么?

ASM:You have to dare to be original and at the same time always dare to reinvent yourself.

你必须要敢于创新而且要敢于挑战重塑自我。

FM: Why did you choose to work with women and not men?

你为何选择女装而不是男装?

ASM: I am not sure. I suppose all my fashion heroes where womenswear designers, when I became interested in fashion. I must admit it has changed since then – where I come from, some of the most interesting designers are menswear designers.

我也不知道,可能所有我的时尚英雄们都是女装设计师吧。但是我必须承认从我刚开始对时尚感兴趣的时候到现在,行业变化很大了,男装设计师也出现了很多有趣的设计师。

Dec 19,2013 | Share This | 2,157 Comments | Reply

 

… a true bedouin artist that uses his past and new experiences to shape his work.

 

一位真正的贝都因艺术家,用自己的过去的和全新的经历来塑造自己的创作

Bernard Delettrez is something of an enigma. A quiet, well travelled man who prefers to let his jewellery speak for itself. After 30 years of designing, his unique pieces do just that! Always willing to go the extra mile, Bernard prefers to mix a prize gem with materials that are both complex and surprising to continue a lifelong fascination. Born in Casablanca but raised in Paris, this world citizen’s fascination for all things precious led him to California where he studied at the Gemological Institute of America. Impulse led him to Brazil to manage a friend’s emerald mine in the late 70s and just two years later Bernard owned his own mine and was designing for prestigious houses like H. Stern. The nineties brought change again, and after building a successful empire he sold it all to sail around the world, a trip that lasted almost 10 years. Now settled in Rome, Bernard focuses on designing his own jewellery for his eclectic, free-spirited and devoted clients. His ever-expanding avant-garde taste is a continuous life pursuit that takes him from his palazzo in Rome, to his house in Kenya and everywhere in-between on a constant search’s for the rare and the beautiful.

Bernard Delettrez是一迷一样的男人。这位安静、经常旅游的设计师的珠宝极具风格。30年的设计经验,他独一无二的设计就是具有说服力!总是想着要走更多的道路,他喜欢混搭不同的材质给出令人意想不到的时尚品味。生于卡萨布兰卡,在巴黎长大,他对世界的好奇让他最后在美国加利佛尼亚宝石鉴定学院学习。后来冲动之下他去了巴西,在70年代帮助他的朋友掌管翡翠矿产,两年后他也有了自己的矿产并且为H.Stern之类的知名品牌设计。90年代有带来了新的改变,他卖掉自己成功的生意,带着帆船环游世界,踏上了10年的世界环游之旅。现在他定居在罗马,专注设计他自己不拘一格,自由主义精神的珠宝。他不断扩张的前卫品味是一种无止境的生命追寻,带他从罗马的宫殿,到肯尼亚的豪宅,再到他在任一大陆探寻的稀有与美丽的地方。

Nothing inspires me like…

没有什么会比这些更激发我
a sunny morning in Rome, women’s dresses in Africa, an old cemetery in Paris, a winters night in Prague, and walking alone in the Kenyan desert.

I hope…

我希望
my life will continue to surprise me in countless new ways.

Cultural influences…

文化影响
a mixture of North African nomadism and a certain French ‘je-ne-sais-quoi’, add fifteen years of living in South America, a yearly retreat in Kenya and three voyages around the world sailing on my boat.

I got where I am…

我到了我所在的位置
because I am a perfectionist, because I love what I do, and because I’m not afraid of taking risks and always following my instinct.

Fashion can sometimes…

时尚有时候会
liberate or ensnare you. Either way, I always prefer to explore the uncharted territories, more so if it mean going in the exact opposite directions dictated by so called trends.

Faith in…

信念在于
myself.

Creativity comes from…

创意来自于
an open mind and the ability to experience everything like a child.

If I could…

如果我可以
I would do it all over again

My dreams are…

我的梦想是
to continue to evolve creatively, to learn from great thinkers, to visit and be inspired by places I have not yet been.

My future is…

我的未来是
now!

My vice is…

我的罪恶是
there are many!

I’m a perfectionist…

我是完美主义者
because I am never truly satisfied. I crave new challenges and believe there is always room for improvement.

My goal…

我的目标是
is to enjoy the ride to the fullest.

I like making…

我喜欢制造
something that has never been done before. Like creating an object or a piece of jewellery with my bare hands.

I love getting older…

我在渐渐老去
because when you are twenty years old, you long to get older. When you are three times that, age simply becomes overrated, but only if you’ve managed to keep a youthful heart and core spirit intact.

Dec 18,2013 | Share This | 10 Comments | Reply

 

When I visited the Inés Figaredo showroom at the Bristol in Paris this weekend, I wasn’t sure what I’d find. I had not heard of her (she launched her collection in 2011). But as soon as I walked up to one of her bags, I felt a tide of excitement rush over me. Her bags are fun, crazy and beautiful in a Dali-esque kind of way… which seems to be the chicest kind of crazy these days. I’ve noticed lots of eyeballs (Kenzo), hands with red lacquered nails (Delfina Delattraz) and huge cursive writting (Lanvin) popping up on prints or incorporated into jewelry recently.

当我本周末在巴黎Bristol拜访Inés Figaredo的展厅时,我还不太确定我会看到什么。我还没有听说过她,(她2011年才发布自己的第一个系列)。但是当我一接近她一个包包时,我就感到了浑身的激动。她的包包有趣,疯狂,又有点萨尔瓦多·达利般的超现实主义美感。感觉非常符合当下最时髦的疯狂流行元素。我注意到了很多的眼球(Kenzo本季很常见), 带着红漆色指甲的手(Delfina Delattraz最流行的元素)以及巨大的草书手写(Lanvin主打)出现在印花上,还有最近和珠宝品牌的合作。

 

I’m for anything that lends a little humor to fashion. Which means I was completely intrigued by the handbags of Inés Figaredo. They are clearly very fashionable, but they are also wearable (and collectible) works of art. Her accessories are more objects than bags: a golden cage with a little tuxedoed man inside it, golden hands and feet with changeable fingernails, several styles with eyes on them, a precious little girl face that is happy on one side and sad on the other or just a big, shiny, red enamel apple or a beautiful golden carousel topped by a chic black lizard top (the handbag).

我喜欢任何能给时尚带来一丝幽默感的事物。这就意味着我完全被Inés Figaredo的包吸引。这些包非常明显是真的很时尚,但是又非常的具有可穿戴性质,甚至可收藏性的艺术作品。她所选用的 配饰比包包本身更具有吸引力:一个金色的笼子里锁着一位穿着燕尾服的男士;金手掌和脚丫具有可以更换的指甲;很多种带有眼睛的风格;一个珍贵的女孩脸部包一面是开心,另一面是伤心;一个又大又亮又红的珐琅苹果;还有一个美丽的金色旋转木马上面配了别致的黑色蜥蜴顶冠(手包造型)。

Hand Bag

手包

Peek-A-Boo

偷看一眼

Sad Small Face Giovanna Battaglia with her favorite bag… it’s happy on the other side!

伤心小脸包Giovanna Battaglia 和她最爱的一款,另一面是开心哦!

Turning the tables: a caged man.

旋转桌子:一个笼子里的人

Two things we often put in our mouths…

两样我们会放到嘴里的东西

I loved them all. Okay, there was one satchel with fifty eyeballs peeking out from under the mop of frizzy white hair scared me, but that was the point. It was very “Lady Gaga”… but she apparently choose the Swarovski skull bag that looks like mini portable Damien Hirst:

我都喜欢。好吧,有一个背包是50颗眼球从一堆毛毛的白色头发后面偷窥着向外看的造型,实在吓到我了,但要的就是这个效果啊。实在有点“Lady Gaga但是她还选择了那个施华洛世奇的骷髅头包,看起来像个迷你的达明·赫斯特系列:

Swarovski Skull Bag

施华洛世奇骷髅包

 

As trendy as “weird” and over-the-top are right now, these bags transcend trendiness. Each bag’s uniqueness is defined not only by its imaginative beauty, but also by the incredible workmanship that goes into each piece. The way gold meets leather or how stones are sewn into silk and then trimmed by metal makes them precious. These bags are timeless.

极端时尚到“古怪效果”并且现在就是流行要过度到极限,这些包已经超越了时尚风潮。每一款的包的唯一性不仅是被它独具想象力的美所定义,更是被它所展示的惊人手工艺技术。他们那些用金色和皮质的完美搭配,宝石缝入丝绸的超群技艺,金属包边的精湛手法一切都显得如此珍贵。这些包包能超越时间的界限。

The best I can do to compare Inés to another handbag designer is to say she is like a Dadaist Judith Leiber. If you wear one of her bags it may very well get more attention than you, kind of like walking around with an adorable chubby-cheeked baby on your hip.

如果硬是要拿Inés和另一位设计师比较的话,那我会说是Dadaist Judith Leiber。如果你配搭了她的某一款包包,也许这个包包会比你本人获得更多的注意力,就好比你把一个非常可爱的胖脸蛋娃娃挂在了腰上走来走去。

Speaking of babies, Inés Figaredo’s bags will be very popular with the kids. First of all because they look like toys, and secondly, because they are all bags that you will keep forever and hand down to the next generation.

说到小娃娃,Inés Figaredo的包一定会受到孩子的欢迎。首先他们都像是玩具一样,其次这些包更可以让你永久保存祖传下去。

I will be investing in one of these bags soon, I just need to figure out which one… and how to keep my three-year-old daughter from stealing it out of my closet.

我在考虑尽快入手一件,现在只需要考虑是哪一件了……还要考虑的是怎么样防止我三岁的女儿从我衣柜里把它偷走。

Text/Picture Via:  http://www.thepeopleilike.com

Edit/Chinese: Sam Shusen GUO

Dec 17,2013 | Share This | 13 Comments | Reply

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