Krystof Strozyna’s new range “Signature” has launched at Alter Concept Store last night in their Xintiandi Store. His signature tailoring and sculptural forms are enhanced by a 70s Sci-fi palette of bright yellow, orange, red, beige, white and black. Krystof Strozyna completed an MA Degree at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London in 2007. Upon graduating, he was invited to display his collection in Harrods as one of winners of the Harrods Design Award as well as acclaim in Vogue, Elle and The Sunday Times Style as well as style sirens such as Natalia Vodianova, Katy Perry，Ellie Goulding，Lily Cole and Sophie Ellis-Bexter.
波兰设计师Krystof Strozyna的新一系列“Signature”昨晚登陆了ALTER新天地旗舰店。他最具代表性的裁剪方式以及雕塑感廓型，伴着70年代科幻调色板式的亮黄，橘色，红色，米色，白色与黑色更加突出。Krystof Strozyna于2007年在伦敦中央圣马丁艺术设计学院完成了硕士学位。毕业前夕，作为英国Harrods设计大奖的获奖人之一，他受邀于Harrods百货展示其设计系列。Krystof 的作品赢得了各界媒体的积极巨大的反响和青睐；他的设计获得Vogue、Elle、The Sunday Times Style等杂志一致称赞并广受各路明星的喜爱：诸如超模 Natalia Vodianova, 歌手Katy Perry，Ellie Goulding以及演员Lily Cole。
This collection has a science fiction, geometric edge, 3D angles and edges protrude and guide the eye across the curves and tailored silhouettes. The thick jersey fabric will iron out lumps and bumps to give a smooth outline. Married with matching collars and cuffs give a balance and elegant uniformity. Its design for women who love tailoring but want a bit of edge and for you to remember it. Krystof Strozyna talks about his work and the collection:
这个系列具有科幻小说感，用融合几何边缘，3D角度和突出的边缘，引导视线穿过曲线和量身打造的轮廓。厚厚的运动衫面料会让高低不平的突起部分勾勒出一个平滑的轮廓。再配上领口和袖口的结构，均匀的表现出了平衡与优雅。它的设计是给那些要求剪裁技巧但要有点前卫的女人，并让你能记住它。 Krystof Strozyna这样谈到他的作品和系列：
Q:How did your fashion adventure begin?
A:I was always surrounded by amazing people, always looking at images; it just happened naturally.
Q:When did you realize you wanted to become a fashion designer?
A:I don’t remember that moment and I’m never thinking about it.
Q:What does fashion mean to you?
A:Excitement, change, fashion is made to wear it.
Q:What are some of your fashion goals?
A:To inspire people, to make them happy.
Q:Where do you get your inspiration?
A:It’s difficult to find anything that could not be an inspiration for me. People, art, weather.
Q:What was the first piece of clothing you ever designed?
A:I have no I idea, I’m rather about what I’m working on at the moment.
Q:What matters to you most as a fashion designer?
A:To see people wearing my pieces. Very exciting.
Q:Do you prefer sketching designs or actually constructing them?
A:Sketching is amazing, that’s when most of the ideas come out of nowhere. Magic. But the rest is also beautiful.
Q:What does fashion mean to you as a young and emerging talent?
A:It is such a big influence on everything and the other way round too – it is influenced by everything.
Q:Do you feel there’s a significant interest for young designers at the moment?
A:I would say so, however I think that it is and always was like that. People want everything that is fresh, crisp!
Q:What makes your SIGNATURE collection special?
A:The SIGNATURE collection is about the perfect dress for an extraordinary woman, that loves art, especially wearing it.
Q:Tell us a bit about the colour scheme in the SIGNATURE collection.
A:It’s POP! It is ever-changing, for each season you will get colours that appear in the main line as well as classics like black and beige. Always very POP. This time vibrant yellow and orange.
Q:Where did the idea to create a SIGNATURE collection come from?
A:It was always in my head, the right time has come to reveal it.
Q:How long did it take you to construct the SIGNATURE collection?
A:It was a long process, took a lot of lessons. We have gathered the designs, the knowledge, the emotions from few seasons.
Q:What is the staple piece that all women should have in their wardrobes?
A:A dress! A Krystof SIGNATURE dress.
Q:If you could dress any celebrity in your SIGNATURE collection, who would it be?
A:Monica Bellucci would be hot, Vanessa Paradis and Kate Winslet would be also very hot.
让Monica Bellucci穿应该会很性感，Vanessa Paradis以及Kate Winslet穿上应该也会很火辣。
Q:Who is the SIGNATURE collection designed for?
A:For a woman that is always on the move, always beautiful, always catching everyone’s attention.
Q:Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?
A:Happy, looking at and listening to things that amaze me.
Q:What is your favourite song at the moment?
A:Cocteau Twins – Fifty-Fifty Clown
The twelve piece collection is available now at ALTER Concept Store, Shanghai, Wolf & Badger in store on Dover Street, London.
Text via FashionFox.co.uk
Chinese/Edit by ALTER Concept Store
It’s no secret that I have an affection for all things Australian; the guys, the accent, the free-spirited attitude, and of course the fashion. So when I heard that Aussie label Sass & Bide was returning to New York Fashion Week after a six season hiatus, I was dying to get the scoop on their latest collection.
Designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton have never gone the tradition route, whether in their careers (they are a former accountant and advertising art director, respectively) or in their design aesthetic. So I was interested to see what the duo had in store this season—surely something cool and unexpected, if The Classic Car Club venue was any indicator. I caught up with Clarke and Middleton backstage amidst the pre-show craziness to talk spring inspiration, the importance of styling, and trading closets with Virginia Bates. Keep reading for the full interview and scroll through the slideshow above to check out our favorite looks from the Spring 14 collection.
设计师Sareh-Jane Clarke 以及 Heidi Middleton从来就不按章出牌，不管是她们自己的职业生涯（她们以前是分别是会计和广告艺术指导），还是她们的设计审美。所以我对这一对设计二人组本季的设计非常的感兴趣，我想一定是一些非常酷或者令人无法预料的惊喜。我在后台终于有幸围追堵截到了两位设计师，和她们一起谈一谈这一季的灵感，造型的重要性以及她们和Virginia Bates的壁橱交易。继续阅读下面的全部采访内容及他们的2014春季系列设计吧。
Lifestyle Mirror: Why was it important for you to come back to New York to show again?
Sarah-Jane Clarke: We’ve been waiting for the perfect excuse to come back to New York because we love New York. The girls here really love the brand so we thought now that we’re opening our first international flagship on Broome Street in November it makes sense to really engage with our girls here.
LM: Tell me a little bit about the inspiration for this collection.
Heidi Middleton: The big vision for the collection was for it not to be able to be harnessed or put in a box or defined. It was a tale of many worlds. It was really inspired by going into the archives of a lot of the trips where Sarah-Jane and I have collected inspiration from many different cultures and places and I wanted to channel that into a modern and polished way. I wanted it to be indefinable, that was the aim. And it was actually the biggest challenge through the process was to make sure it couldn’t be harnessed or it couldn’t be put to a period of time or a certain genre or culture. So I feel happy that we’ve been able to meet that vision. It’s really a sophisticated coming together of elements.
LM: Do you have a favorite piece from the collection?
HM: We have a few favorites, probably the gallery playsuit, a short-suit in chalk.
SJC: And my favorite piece, I’m loving all of the layered skirts over the pants.
LM: How important is the styling to your collections?
HM: We’ve had so much attention for our styling that we’ve started to weave that into the actual designs themselves. So the whole thing is pre-styled so can run and the look is already done. We wanted to be able to make it accessible to people who don’t have that natural styling ability.
SJC: I think it really just brings the collection together, you can see the vision of how we’d like it to be worn.
LM: Who is the woman you’re designing for?
HM: It’s interesting, we had a situation last week where one of the staff her 90-year-old grandmother was wearing this piece in the most incredible way and then in the same week her 10-year-old sister had been bought a piece by the family and she was wearing it to a party and we were so inspired by the way they wore it. And for us that epitomizes the Sass & Bide girl, we don’t like her to be an age demographic or a certain type of girl, we just love that it’s a freedom of expression and you can wear the pieces in so many different ways. It’s really about a mindset and a way of being rather than a certain girl. But she’s definitely free-spirited.
LM: What’s the best piece of fashion advice you’ve received?
HM: Probably to dress for yourself and not for anyone else.
LM: If you could trade closets with anyone who would it be?
SJC: I wouldn’t mind getting into Virginia’s in London—the vintage collector. [Virginia Bates]
By Megan Hayes Via www.lifestylemirror.com
Translate/Edit by Sam Shusen GUO
"Things that I love," said Jonathan Saunders. "That's what Resort should be." Maybe that's why his Fall collection stumbled. He described its palette as "earthy," but Saunders is acid, not earth. Resort took him right back to Candyland. Colors and prints popped with the synthetic sizzle that he does so well.
Saunders cited the PoMo slickness of the Milanese design group Memphis in the 1980s and the artful irony of Pet Shop Boys album sleeves in the early nineties as reference points. One particular circular "Bubble Wrap" print was directly inspired by PSB's plastic wrap for their 1993 release, Very. The effect was 3-D, duplicated more subtly in pieces cut from a beautiful/ugly blend of silk and Lurex. It felt like a sticky organza, but it floated like magic.
The presence of Memphis was strongest in the artificial color scheme. Saunders likes a clash. Pistachio and chartreuse was his favorite. In fact, shades of green clashing with everything was a leitmotif, all the way to a printed chiffon evening gown that shaded together leaf green and black. It was borderline lurid, but that is quintessential Saunders. It energizes him, and one reason this collection worked so well is that he'd found the fabrics to match. The key was body-conscious bonding: double-face jerseys heat-pressed with big, blowsy tulips, silks, and cottons backed with jersey, and sheaths with raw-edged hems bonded so that they, too, had a peculiar dimensionality. "I've been working on that for a year," Saunders said.
"A real Resort collection," he called it, and he wasn't wrong. These clothes will sing in the sunshine—the harder the glare, the better.
What is your original idea of design? I saw a lot of feeling and Art reference through your bag.
Ines Figaredo： 我设计的出发点就是人类的基本需求，把一个东西搬到另一个地方，这是包袋本身的作用。另一方面，我把我的创造灵感融入包袋之中，把包袋放在特定的环境和场景，更重要建立了一种包和背它的人之间的关系。这就是我设计的初衷：设计出有艺术风格，有观点的包，并且永远保证它的实用性。
I started from the view we satisfy a primary human need in order things must be carried from one place to another. This is the main characteristic that involves the handbag as a functional object. On the other hand, I conceived my creations as pieces of art that connect with the atmosphere and scenario they are involved in, and even most important, each handbag establish its own relationship with its owner and carrier. This is the melting point where we start creating our Collections: The handbags born from an artistic background and point of view, but must be always linked to a functional feature.
What do you think the relationship between art and fashion?
Ines Figaredo： 毫无疑问我们的所有系列都来自艺术的启发：图形、雕塑、插画、音乐，这些情绪就是我的方向。最近我深深着迷的艺术家有：蔡国强，艾未未，Ernesto Neto还有我最爱的Joana Vasconcelos，Jeef Koonso 和行为艺术家Marina Abramovich。所有的情绪都被转化进了手袋的设计之中，没有一定的参考我们是不可能有这样的设计，有时很明显，有时隐藏其中。但是我们背后的设计概念总是很明确的。
Is essential and unquestionable that all our creations are justified on a artistic perspective from a really wide artistic range such as pictorial art, sculpture, illustration, music… different emotions that make me feel alive and became into my direct inspiration. In recent times, I´m totally fascinated with XXI creators such as Caí-Guo Quiang, Ai Wei Wei, and Ernesto Neto. I have to point out as well Joana Vasconcelos; Jeef Koonso Marina Abramovich performances. All this inspirations and emotions are translated into our Handbags. Without this reference would be impossible to come up with our designs: Sometimes it’s a shown and clear-evidence, sometimes is hidden, but this concept is always behind of them.
All your bags are very unique. Where is your inspiration come from?
I´m completely inspired by duality features: Past and Present, Reality versus an imaginative and unreal world, find a beauty twist inside an ugly and apparently disgusting object…
Even this sometimes inspiration looks like spontaneous and simple, it always come from a deep emotional point of view. Art is the way to answer all this intellectual concerns and questions.
Would you be able to tell me some interesting stories about your bags?
Ines Figaredo： 我们所有的设计都和顾客紧密相连，也许最开始那个原始的故事，在顾客买到它之后，就变成了背她们的人的故事。比如说，我们每个人都有过伤心的感情经历。当两人的感情结束，你需要照顾好自己，慢慢治愈心中的伤痛。这时候我们的手包将会治愈你的情绪，这款心型手袋上的创可贴，你可以揭下，也可以选择留在上面，并且它时刻都在提醒你：快餐，甜食和电影是你治愈情伤最好的朋友。这些包袋将会带给你自信和力量，真正成为你的一部分。
All of our creations try to build-up a strong engagement with our consumers. All of them have a starting-point story, but at the end, are our clients who take this story and adapt it to their own feelings. For instance, all of us have experience a non-happy ending relationship. When a love story ends between two people, you need to take your time to recover and take care of yourself. And this is the moment where our handbags take part on this scenario. We created our HEART Bag in order to give a solution to a broken heart: The bandage you need to cover your wounds or you can take it off when you feel better, and a charm that reminds you the best remedy for a broken heart: Eat fast and sweet food and watch cheesy films with your best friends!. It´s all about our customers feel good and confidence when they are carrying one of our bags. Take an INÉS FIGAREDO piece and make its story totally yours.
Your team include many Spanish artists, How you cooperate with them?
We present a project, a story, an idea. We collaborate with this amazing crew of sculptures, painters, illustrators, jewelers… we work hand by hand to be always on the same page as them, but without losing their soul and personal interpretation that is always translated into the final creation.
StyleTV: LADY GAGA曾经用过你的包。我觉得你们骨子里有一些相似的东西，你怎么看她？
You bag has been carried by lady gaga. I got a feeling about you two have some sort of similarity inside. How did you think of her?
Ines Figaredo： Lady GaGa就是把艺术和时尚结合的最完美代表。她把自己独特有趣的个性在日常生活中展现了出来。有很多明星会使用我们的品牌，也有更多普通人完美的展现了我们品牌的特质。她们都是永远充满好奇心不畏惧尝试的女性。我也希望背上Ines Figaredo包袋的女性能为它而感到骄傲。
Lady Gaga represents the perfect union and fusion between Art and Fashion. She has an interesting and strong personality, showing it off in her daily life. Different Celebrities are wearing our handbags currently, but on the other hand we have a high bunch of clients that represents perfectly INÉS FIGAREDO Id. Anonymous women who are curious in terms of going one step ahead in their perception of fashion. This is our most important challenge nowadays; reach these out-standing women making them feel proud of themselves when they carried a Figaredo under their arm.
GROUND-ZERO was launched by the designer duo, brothers Eri and Philip Chu back in 2008, with current focus in fashion.
The brand's name, is a literal translation of the duo’s thoughts — everything has to start from zero, where possibilities of paths are unlimited and anything is possible, all one needs to do is to take a leap. “Zero could be everything.” I had a brief converation with Philip this morning. Here's what he told me.
FM: So why did you choose fashion to begin with?
PhilipChu: Initially I wanted to do music, wanted to start a company based on multi media involving all aspects of creativity… gradually the designs developed into T-shirts, and led us into fashion.
FM: Now that you mention this detail, music is indeed reflected in your clothes Somehow.
PC: Yes definitely, we insist on making our own music for the shows. For SS13 show soundtrack, we were lucky to have collaborated with Chan Fai Young, famous Hong Kong composer.
FM: This is amazing so, you launched Ground Zero with your brother. How do you separate your roles in the brand?
这真的很棒，你和自己的兄弟一起创办了Ground Zero, 您在品牌上如何划分角色？
PC: Eri creates the graphics, the prints whereas I'm more involved with art direction and media.
FM: How difficult it was for you to launch Ground Zero in such a difficult period?
PC: Looking back now, it was a very stressful time. We didn't realize how hard it actually was, as it all happened so fast and we enjoyed the whole process. There were often times where for example we had to budget so only one of us go to Paris for trade fairs etc.
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last. How does really longevity mean in this business?
PC: Determination. You have to believe you can do it. Often you get mixed feedback, you have to focus on the good and carry on.
FM: What is the most important thing you always carry or follow when working?
PC: My iPhone
FM: Why did you choose to work with women and not men?
PC: Because we like women. Womenswear offers more to play with, regarding silhouettes, color, detailing etc. We are very graphic based, women feel more comfortable to wear print more than men.
FM: How different are women compared to men in your opinion?
PC: Relating to clothes?
FM: In general and in clothes in particular.
PC: Within fashion, women have more choices. They are demanding every season, looking for something new all the time. However men look for comfort and style, minimal and classic silhouettes. In general, women are more emotional and allow themselves to express more. Whereas men are more contained.
FM: How did you form the Ground Zero, heroine/the woman you dress?
PC: We believe our heroine, in the future is a strong yet gentle character. Reflecting in our collections, we always put two extremes together. e.g. mechanical femininity in AW13
FM: How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one? Is this the moment of great creativity?
PC: Financial crisis definitely affects fashion like everything else. it's an inevitable cycle, we have to realize that it is happening and work around it rather than let it affect your designs.
FM: What is your new collection about, the inspiration lets say.
PC: In my mind, I imagine a time machine. A strong young woman walks out in armor, establishing her presence and identity..
FM: How did you start designing it, what was your research about?
PC: We watched a lot of cartoons such as God Mars, researched into space images, galaxies..
FM: What is so fascinating about the unknown?
PC: The unknown can be anything. There are no restrictions in creating within the unknown. It's intriguing.
FM: Where is your collection available?
PC: Shanghai ALTER Concept Store, Restir in Tokyo, Tom Greyhounds in Seoul, etc
上海ALTER，东京Restir, 首尔的Tom Greyhounds等等。
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