法国针织服装设计师Risto Bimbiloski在2006年创立了自己的品牌RISTO。同年他便受邀与Louis Vuitton合作,成为LV的男装毛衫设计师。手工针织工艺和独特的印花,成为Risto品牌的DNA。他的设计灵感来自科技的印花图案,并且与当代艺术家们合作,赢得了众多名人的追捧。

Macedonia-born Risto Bimbiloski is a knitwear designer who established his namesake line in Paris in 2006. The former head designer of knitwear at Louis Vuitton boasts. Bimbiloski's use of unusual prints and unique know-how in the realm of handmade knitwear has earned him fans such as Angela Lindvall and accounts with Barneys New York and Opening Ceremony.

Risto Bimbiloski出生在马其顿,那里是个强烈的母系氏族社会,女人们尤其善长于针织和手工艺制作,在那里手工编织要比政治或宗教差异的存在更普遍,这对他后来的设计不断产生影响。

It's also important to Risto to have a sense of community in the work environment. The ladies have a great passion for what they do and learned to knit at an early age. This common thread is stronger than any political or religious differences that prevail in Macedonia.

你仍然一直与马其顿那边的编织工匠们一起工作吗?

Are you still working with artisans in Macedonia for production of your line?

是的。我们在试着建立编织工作室,对我来说这能让我充分发挥,并且做出特别的产品。这样做的目的是为了保证我们产品的独立性。

Of course. We managed to build a big artisan atelier as well as a cut and sew department, which gives me great opportunity to fully develop my collections and produce the orders with special care. It's a family project that we developed carefully in order to assure our independence for production.

你的设计灵感来源是什么?

Where do you find inspiration for your innovative shapes?

一切都从印花或针织图案开始。明确方向后,我就开始设计形状和细节图案。当然了,有时难免会存在一些老式的设计想法。

It all starts with an image for a print or a knit swatch. When the direction is clear I create designing patterns that I apply to shapes and details. Of course, there is inevitably the vintage research part that comes along.

你在LV得到的经验是什么?

What was your experience like at Louis Vuitton?

就像是从幼儿园一下升到了哈佛一样。那是一项从奢侈品设计到品牌时尚的俗称课程。很难但是很有趣,跟我自己品牌的设计完全不同风格。

Like jumping from kindergarten to Harvard. It was a crash course for designing luxury, corporate, branded fashion. It was tough and fun as it was very far from what I was doing for my own label.

RISTO SS2014 is now available at Alter Concept Store.

RISTO 2014春夏新品现已经登陆ALTER。

Apr 21,2014 | Share This | 9,019 Comments | Reply

ALTER精选品牌Missy Skins 2014春夏系列“复古的浪漫”正式入驻上海ALTER概念店!设计师Jessica Burs和Victoria Ivachoff接受了Time Out的采访。该品牌的目的是为了让皮革服饰更加时尚并且价格定位让人能够轻松接受。

Jessica Brus and Victoria Ivachoff are the brains behind new Shanghai-based womenswear label Missy Skins, which aims to make leather modern, affordable and accessible. As their spring/summer 2014 collection ‘Vintage Romance’ launches, they tell Time Out about family politics, new generation leather and body confidence.

“我们俩都非常喜欢皮制品,但是却不会花一万元钱去买一条Acne或者Helmut的皮革打底裤。当我们集思广益时,我们意识到从没有品牌提供人们低价质量又好的皮革制品。”Victoria说。

‘We've both always loved leather, but don’t have the money to spend 10,000RMB on a pair of Acne or Helmut Lang leather leggings. While brainstorming ideas together, we realised that no-one was offering good quality leather pieces at affordable prices’ – Victoria

我们品牌的名字最初来源于我们的阿姨,她总是叫我们‘missies'。‘missy’可以指任何人,假小子、小女生、假惺惺的那种女生”;‘skins’来自于皮革自身:皮革其实就是皮肤,我们想让我们的皮革制品真正的就像人的第二层皮肤一样,让女生感到就像是自己的皮肤一样的舒服。”Jessica说。

‘The first part of our brand name came from our aunt: she's always called us missies. A missy can be anyone-a tomboy, a girly girl,a goody two-shoes or a cool chick. Skins relates to the leather itself: it's literally a skin, we wanted the pieces to fit like a second skin, and they're for a girl who's comfortable in her own skin'-Jessica

“我们花了大量的时间来寻找这种可手洗并且不会缩水的材料,维护低成本。我们不想要人们花三千块钱买衣服,却要花1000块钱进行干洗。我们的服装反映了我们男孩子气的风格,比如经典的T恤、紧身裤、男友风短裤。”Jessica说。

‘We spent a lot of time sourcing hand-washable leather that doesn’t shrink, to keep maintenance costs down. We didn’t want people paying 3,000RMB for something and having to spend 1,000RMB on dry-cleaning. The clothes reflect our own tomboy styles, with classic shapes like a T-shirt dress, leggings and boyfriend shorts’ – Jessica

皮革紧身裤是非常赞的,所有人都能穿,只要有自信。即使我和Jess的身材完全不同,她很高很瘦,我矮但有曲线,紧身裤同时适合我们两人。如果你还觉得你的腿不够纤细,我们还有一半皮革一蓬特布设计的紧身裤。”Victoria说。

‘Leather leggings are actually very complimentary: anyone can wear them, it’s just about confidence. Even though Jess and I have very different body types – she’s tall and slim, I’m shorter and very curvy – they work on both of us. If you still think your legs aren’t skinny enough, we also do half leather, half ponte [a thick, two-way stretch material] leggings’ – Victoria

“去说服人们在夏天穿皮革制品很难,我们这次的新系列用了一种轻便又透气麂皮布料,我在非洲的野生动物园那实地测验过。”Jessica说。

‘It’s hard convincing people to wear leather in the summer. For the new collection, we worked on finding really lightweight, breathable suede, which I road-tested on safari in Africa’ – Jessica

“经营一个家族企业有着特有的挑战,但是当我们的阿姨在悉尼做设计师时我们都为她工作过。我们彼此之间都很诚实,从未有任何误解,没有什么是不能解决的。”Victoria说。

‘Running a family business brings its own challenges, but we’ve both worked for our aunt before, when she was based in Sydney as a designer. We’re pretty honest with each other, there’s never any misunderstandings, nothing is ever left unresolved’ – Victoria

Apr 12,2014 | Share This | 103 Comments | Reply





Maria Sole Cecchi是Les Petits Joueurs设计师。Maria出生于意大利,她从小喜爱创作,在她成年以后,她决定离开在弗洛伦莎的家去巴黎寻找灵感。

刚开始MARIA跟随自己的兴趣开始重新改造一些包包,在这个过程中她获得了灵感。她粘著名的乐高积木在那些包包上,加上一些新的配件,而后她惊奇的发现…… 这是对于MARIA的创作生涯来说一个重要的开始。刚开始仅作为一种消遣 来展现Maria个人的喜爱和品味,但是很快她独特的设计与新颖的想法就获得来 自世界各地的时尚精英的关注和好奇。就这样,Les Petits Joueurs品牌诞生了

Les Petits Joueurs包包的款式与配饰都是限量生产,包包做工非常精细,内部设计也很巧妙,全部都是弗洛伦萨的传统手工师傅手工制作。

We caught up with Italian born Mariasole Cecchi about her playful lego and leather handbags and jewelry creations. Cecchi shares with us a little about what inspires her in life.

我们有幸采访到了这位意大利出生以皮革和乐高积木为创作素材的设计师Mariasole Cecchi。跟ALTER一起来听听她的创作灵感来源吧!


What do you do and how did you end up doing it?

你是怎样创造出这样一个品牌的?

 I created a leather accessories and jewelry line with the use and inspiration of the famous Lego brick. My brand name is LES PETITS JOUEURS. I started doing this as I felt a need to be different and bring color into a brand and with a desire to create something different to what is out there. At the time I was living in Paris, and it was there that I felt the need of taking fashion rules a little less seriously.

在乐高积木的灵感激发下,我设计出了一个皮革系列和珠宝系列,然后将这个品牌命名为LES PETITS JOUEURS。起初我做这个是想做一些与众不同的东西,将色彩融入到品牌里。当时我在巴黎,我感觉到时尚的态度其实可以是多样的,并不一定要很严肃。

Who are your favorite artists/designers at the moment? 

谁是你最喜欢的艺术家或者设计师?

Pascale Mussard, my boyfriend’s mother, who is an incredible artist. She is capable of mixing art with fashion, she is also the art director of the brand PETIT h. And Brazilian/French painter Isabelle Tuchband. She fascinates me with all her painting which are full of colors and spread positivity everywhere.

我男朋友的妈妈Pascale Mussard,是一位了不起的艺术家。她能够将艺术和时尚融合,她同时也是PETIT h这个品牌的艺术总监。我还喜欢巴西法国画家Isabelle Tuchband,她的色彩丰富的画及其传递出的正能量让我着迷。


What makes you laugh?  

什么事情能够让你笑?

From a positive perspective when people do not take themselves too seriously. In the negative, the opposite.

从积极角度看,当人们不把自己太当回事时。消极角度嘛,就是当人们太把自己当回事了,都会让我感到好笑。


Perfect holiday destination?

最喜欢的度假胜地是哪?

Any place in the world I have not visited yet! I love to explore new places and it is what I try to do each time I go on holiday.

我喜欢世界上任何我没有去过的地方!我喜欢探寻新的地方,这就是我每次选择度假地方的方法。


What's your favorite Paris hangout? 

在巴黎,你最喜欢逛什么地方?

During the day the Palais Royal area, during the night I like to walk around the 8th, there are so many cool bars and clubs in that neighborhood.

白天我喜欢在皇宫附近转,晚上我喜欢在第八区周围逛逛,因为那附近有好多特别棒的酒吧。

What annoys you? 

什么事情会让你很讨厌?

People with no personal interest or passion in their lives.

生活没有激情或没有任何兴趣的人。


What inspires you? 

什么事情会激发你的灵感?

Experiences. People and their fascinating life stories.

经历啊。一些人和他们迷人的人生故事。


What is the most exciting thing that has happened to you?  

在你身上发生的最令人激动的事情是什么?

Moving to Brazil.

搬到巴西生活。


If you were an animal, what would you be?  

你希望变成哪种动物?

A leopard. Just to have the same fur as he has.  So beautiful.

猎豹。我爱死它身上的花纹了。太漂亮了!


LES PETITS JOUEURS 2014 spring summer collection is now available at Alter Concept Store.

LES PETITS JOUEURS2014春夏新品现已经登陆ALTER。

Mar 31,2014 | Share This | 9,549 Comments | Reply

Pitchouguina is a label based on emotions. It draws inspiration from everyday moments, everyday people, random words, awkward smiles and all the little things that can so easily go unnoticed. We aim to create wearable garments that will make memories and play a subtle but important part in our daily lives. With Russian roots and a studio in London we let our melancholic dreams inspire our clothing. By our own choice we are a little naive, and maybe a little obsessed.

Pitchouguina是基于情感的一个品牌。它的灵感来自日常生活的时刻,普通人,平常的语言,尴尬的笑容,生活中容易被忽视的所有的小事情。我们想做出可穿性强的服装,给人们制造一些回忆,在人们的日常生活中扮演一个微妙而重要的组成部分。在俄罗斯的总部和伦敦的工作室,从犹豫的梦想中寻找灵感。我们都有点天真,也许有点痴迷,但这就是我们的选择。Pitchouguina 2014 春夏系列以浅色调为主,微妙的印花、浪漫的皱折、闪亮的迪斯科金,手臂上挖洞的单品设计再配上复古钮扣都是该品牌从平凡时刻所体悟到的氛围。这位来自俄罗斯的女设计师 Anna 以日常生活所遇到的人事物,甚至胡言乱语、尴尬的笑容,这些所有多么容易被忽视的小事情都是她所采取的灵感,默默地被当作充满故事性服装的独特创意!

How did you come to be based in London, and what keeps you here?

当初为什么选择在伦敦发展?是什么把你留在了这里?

It seemed natural to stay in London once I realised how much I have built and created around me. I first came here to spend time gaining work experience with great established designers as well as young designers, and then I opened a company here and then I planned my first commercially presented collection for S/S 2014.

当我意识到我在这里做了多少事情时,便自然而然的留在了伦敦。我最初来这里时,像很多年轻设计师们一样,花了很多时间积攒与著名设计师工作的经验,然后我在这里开了一家公司,然后我策划了SS14系列。

How would you describe the Pitchouguina aesthetic?

你会如何形容Pitchouguina美的理念?

Dreamy but with the strong beliefs behind those dreams. I hope that my clothes can be adapted to a lot of lifestyles but I think my garments will be chosen over others because of the need to wear something soft, melancholic and maybe even loving.

梦幻般的,但梦想背后都有着强烈的信念。我希望我的衣服可以适应很多的生活方式,但是我认为我的的服装会被更多人选择,因为人们需要柔软、犹豫、充满了爱的衣服。

You have an impressive list of sponsors – how did you go about finding them?

你有令人印象深刻赞助商的名单 – 你是如何去寻找呢? 

I believe in what I do and I think if you make others believe in it as well you will get results eventually. Finding sponsors is really hard work, but after approaching hundreds of people and being ignored by most I found a few that were exactly the ones that I was looking for.

我相信我所做的事情,我认为只要你努力,你会得到最终的结果。寻找赞助商真的是辛苦,但在被无数人无视之后,我终于找到了我一直在寻找的那些人。

What unexpected things inspired the ss14 collection?

2014春夏系列的灵感来自哪些意想不到的事?

I started with baby pink, baby blue and loose sequins in a bag at first and this slowly evolved into what has be showne.SS 2014 collection is a bit of a sporty touch, but Pitchouguina is mainly a colour and fabric driven label so if you were to put my mood boards into black and white all the references would seem to go off in many different directions! 

我最初用婴儿粉色,淡蓝色和亮片,然后慢慢演变成了这个系列。2014春夏系列是有点运动感,但Pitchouguina主要特征是色彩和材质,如果你把我的情绪板成黑白的所有引用,似乎方向就错了!

Mar 21,2014 | Share This | 7,085 Comments | Reply

 

This season’s Ohne Titel show was colorful, chic and fun. The mix of textures and color palettes made for some great well-tailored and elegant silhouettes.

本季Ohne Titel的秀场多彩,前卫且有趣。材料的混合以及色块的碰撞在精确裁剪而无比优雅的廓形上发挥到了极致。

 

Models with colored hair streaks and perfectly-fitted knitwear dresses gave way to a sophisticated and cheerful show.

模特头发上多彩的挑染,极其合身体现完美身材的针织裙,使得这场秀显得成熟干练而又令人愉悦。

 

Turquoise, fuchsia, royal blue and black leather intertwined with mesh looks were impressive and original, while the pink, melon, black and white color palette came close to sophisticated fashion perfection.

青绿色,紫红色,深蓝色和黑色皮革交​​织在一起的网状外观令人印象深刻,极具原创性,而粉红色,青瓜色,黑色,白色在一起的精致搭配趋于时尚完美。

 

As the designer duo Alexa Adams and Flora Gill put it, the collection was a reflection of “joyful spring”.

正如该品牌的设计师二人组 Alexa Adams 以及 Flora Gill说的一样,整个系列就是反应出一个“愉快的春季”。

 

 

“A play on sheer and solid surfaces with an emphasis on technique, linear pattern and a brushstroke color effect.”

“对半透明薄纱和不透明面料材质的把玩,非常注重技术的运用,几何流线纹路也极具笔触色彩效果。”

 

This collection has landed in ALTER Concept Store in Shanghai, surprisingly, we have found all of the knitwear is reversible, and it appears equally beautiful different color patterns.

这个系列已经登陆了ALTER概念店,我们非常惊讶的发现,该系列所有针织款都可以正反两面穿,双面不同的色彩印花却具有同等的美丽效果。

Feb 10,2014 | Share This | 15,232 Comments | Reply

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