The fact that luxury fashion has been redefined in the last few years is commonly known. We are no longer willing to buy high priced and high quality goods only because of its tangible value. Now we want a concept, a fresh idea that stands behind a brand, a story that will make our shopping experience special. In the same time we know, which brands to avoid in order to stay secure and not commit a fashion cliché. All that leads to the fact that these days it’s getting harder and harder to follow up with fashion, but also it’s getting harder to become truly amused…

近几年来,高端奢华的时尚被重新定义已经是一件很平常的事情了。我们不再去花高价钱买有品质的时尚品因为它的价钱确实高得可怕。现在我们在寻觅一个概念,一个全新的时尚概念紧紧吸附着一个品牌,一个让我们的购物感受更加的特别的故事。同时,我们也知道什么品牌是不跟随的,以免成为时尚的老套群体。事实上,时尚的速度已经变得很快,已经很难去跟上它的步伐,而且很难让人对时尚给所给与的完全买单。

 

 

So what is the future of luxury? The answer has arrived today’s morning to our HQ and it’s called – Karolina Zmarlak.

 

那么未来奢华感都会是什么样的呢? 那么让今天早上才到达我们总部的品牌Karolina Zmarlak来给你答案。

NY based, Polish Designer graduated from F.I.T.’s fashion-design program with a specialization in tailoring in 2007, did an intern of both Theory and Carolina Herrera (not to mention winner of Gen Art’s Styles award for eveningwear in 2005), after that spent a couple of years mostly designing made-to-measure pieces for private clients before debuting her eponymous ready-to-wear label for fall '09.

2007年,设计总部在纽约的波兰设计师Karolina Zmarlak毕业于F.I.T的时尚设计专业,他的专长是手工缝纫。他为Theory Carolina Herrera做过实习(他是2005Gen Art’s 造型奖最佳晚装奖),实习之后,他花了几年为重要的私人客户定做服装,她的第一个成衣系列在2009年秋季开售的。

 

 

Yesterday, I finally had an occasion to see and touch her A/W 11 collection and I have to admit that it went way beyond my expectations. It’s a kind of cloths that really makes you feel special – perfect tailoring, best quality fabrics, bold, expressive design – it’s everything that you are looking for when hunting for modern luxury.


 昨天,我终于有机会来欣赏和触摸到她的2011秋冬系列,我必须承认他的成衣表现力远远的超过了我的期望。这个系列的服装可以真正的让你感觉到特别,完美的缝制技巧,最高之地的布料,狂野的表现力,这是让你拥有摩登奢华感的一切必备品。

 

 

 

The title of the collection is “Double Identity” and I can imagine it is very personal to Karolina, since the inspiration stemmed from her childhood growing up in Communist Poland. The story behind says that from an early age, she learned how a strict society can challenge a woman’s individuality, and stifles her freedom to imagine and create her own reality. Being pushed to search for means of expression and humanism on her own has resulted in building a strong individual identity.

 

这个取名叫双重身份的系列,我可以想象对Karolina来说是非常个人的特别私人的理解。灵感是从她童年在波兰的一个体现。 在早些时候, 设计师学到了女性在如此严峻的社会是怎样是受到挑战的,去让自己的自由得到舒展和去创造自己的现实生活。女性在这个环境中被强迫去寻找一种表达方式和人文主义,经常表现在各种不同的个人矛盾的消耗,这种挣扎常常表现在一个很强的个人形态中。


 

 

 ‘Double’ has also another reason in this case. Conceptual ideas have been translated into convertible pieces that can be worn in seemingly endless ways — picture a beige skirt that becomes black once you turn it inside out, or a jacket that can be worn in a multitude of ways — that’s the direct meaning of Karolina’s double identity.

 

两面有另一个的原因出现在此处。时尚的概念在此转换成一个可变化穿着的独特的形式。想象一条浅褐色短裙的反面是黑色的的拼接,或者一个夹克在4种变化中演绎着都市女孩的执着。这就是Karolina想要表现的双重身份的另一层含义。  

 

“My friends realized how much ‘one-time-wear’ crap they accumulated in their closets over the past ten years. Convertibility is about personalization, and I think that’s very important to the modern client.” – says the Designer.

Karolina说:我的朋友意识到只能一面穿的服装是多么的不实际,这些衣服在橱窗里面呆了超过10年,可变化的意味着个性的转换,角色的抽离,我想这对当今的客户是非常重要的。

 

“I’ve always gravitated toward clothes that allow me to express my style, not dictate it.”

我总是倾向用服装来表达我的形态和风格,而不是被固定在一个表达形式中。

 

This statement Alter wholeheartedly support.

这些Karolina的思想是Alter全力支持的。

 

Aug 29,2011 | Share This | 9,810 Comments | Reply

Let’s continue last week’s topic and dig a bit deeper into the Belgian ‘thing’. Today, I’d like you to meet Stephanie, a talented Belgium girl, the designer who stands behind our favorite leggings brand – Been by D’Heygere.

 

让我们继续上周的话题,让我们一点点去了解,去认识这个不一般的“比利时“。今天,我想介绍Stephaine给你们认识,她是一个极具天赋的女孩,她就是大热紧身贴腿裤品牌Been byD’Heygere背后的的设计师。

 

 

I’d read her biography and I was so impressed that I decided to share a bit of it with you.

 

读了她的传记之后,我发现我必须要和大家一起分享她的故事。

 

 

Stephanie graduated in the master degree of Royal Academy of Fine arts, Fashion Department, Antwerp, in the same time being a graduate student of the balcher degree. Shortly after that she worked for Jeremy Scott and Zac Posen, Peter Jensen and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

 

Stephanie毕业于皇家美术学院时尚系,并同时取得了硕士和学士学位。毕业后,她为Jeremy Scott Zac Posen, Peter Jensen 以及Jean-Charles de Castelbajac工作过。

 

 

Her Master Degree collection was called “Humanimalus”, which is the meaning of mixing human being with animals. Below you can see few sketches and the final result. There’s no surprise that she got an opportunity to work with the brightest people in the business just after her graduation – her first work is just brilliant!

 

 

她的硕士毕业作品取名为“Humanimals”,意思是人和动物的混合体。你可以在下面手绘图中看到她想表达的意思和效果。所以她能在毕业后最短时间内为最有名气的人工作,不会是难以想象的事情,因为她真的太有才气了。

 

 

Stephanie’s drawings for her master collection “Humanimalus”

 

 

 

 

 

“Been by D’heygere” is a name of a brand created by Stephanie, and if you are wondering what is the reason for this name, I am ready to explain – “Been” means leg in Flemish and “D’heygere” is the surname of designer.

 

Stephanie创建了“Been by D’heygere”这个品牌,如果你弄不明白为什么会取这个名字,那么我想可以这样来解释,”Been”在比利时语里面是腿的意思,而“D’heygere”是设计师的姓。

 

 

 

 

The line is all about prints, with last season focused on enlarged exotic fruit prints – pineapples, banana skins, water melon and sharlyn melon, matching with neon zippers and nylon fabric.

 

这个系列基本上都是展示这不同的印花,上一季基本上着重表现水果的印花,像菠萝,黄西瓜,西瓜,香蕉皮,再加上大条的拉链和运用尼龙面料。

 

 

 

 

For F/W2011 Stephanie amplify the legwear collection with long pencil skirts, sleeved bodies and cute little gloves. The skirt is definitely my favorite peak, I literally fell in love with it at the first sight.

 

2011秋冬系列中,Stephanie用长铅笔裙,有袖的连体衣和可手套的设计为腿部系列增添了绝对的亮点。紧身长裙绝对是我最看得上眼的一个设计,可以说是第一眼看到它时就爱上了它。

 

 

4 new bold prints are inspired by the forest and I can tell you straight away that they will immediately put you in a funky, autumn atmosphere. All you have to do is mix and match it with basic jersey top and you look outstanding during the day, then pull a zipper a bit up and rock the party at night.

 

4个全新而且勇敢的印花设计的灵感来源于森林里面的树木,告诉你吧,只要你已穿上它,立马你的身体里面就充满了秋天搞怪的气息。要搭配这个具有灵气的裙子,只需要混搭基本的宽松上衣,那么你就会看起来无比的出众,想要在晚上的派对里面惊艳全场的话,很简单,把拉链稍稍往上拉高,至于拉高多少,你自己来决定吧!

 

Both collections are waiting for you at Alter!

2个系列均在Alter有售!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aug 24,2011 | Share This | 3 Comments | Reply

Over the past few decades Belgian designers have successfully tried to build up they position, being recognizable as latest fashion anti-conformists. You fashion followers, who probably know Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten may want to take a deeper look at their homeland friend, Tim Van Steenbergen. For the rest of you, who associate Belgium only with their delicious, high-quality chocolate this persona will be great to start working on your further education.

 

在过去的几十年里比利时设计师已经成功的树立了他们的地位,被认作为是最新的时尚反遵奉者。作为潮流追随者的你们,有谁知道Maison Martin Margiela,Ann Demeulemeester 和Dries Van Noten想要好好的拜访一下他们的老乡,Tim Van Steenbergen。对于剩下的你们,有谁结识那些只与他们的美味且高品质的巧克力在一起的比利时人,这些人将成为你将来开始教育深造的很好的工作伙伴。

 

Steenbergen graduated Magna cum Laude at the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts (fashion department, textile creation and theatre costume). Subsequently he took classes in drapery and couture techniques and worked as the first assistant of Olivier Theyskens. His first collection was launched in 2001 in Paris and in the same year he set up his own company Mitzlavv bvba.

 

Steenbergen以优异的学习成绩毕业于安特卫普皇家艺术学院(服装系,纺织创作和舞台服装),随后他参与了布料和服装设计技巧的课程并成为了设计师Olivier Theyskens的第一任助理。在2001年的巴黎,他发布了第一场服装展示,并在同年成立了他自己的公司——Mitzlavv bvba。

 

Jennifer Lopez, lindsay lohan and Princess Claire of Belgium spotted wearing Tim Van Steenbergen


Today, except of having his own, highly appreciated by Hollywood celebrities label, he’s a Creative Director of the successful upmarket fashion label Chine, and a costume designer for performances at a world renowned opera house in Milan, La Scala. I guess, we all can envy such multitask skills!

 

现今,被好莱坞的明星深度青睐,他是个成功的高级时装品牌的创意总监,同时也是米兰著名歌剧院La Scala的舞台服装设计师。我猜,我们都羡慕他拥有如此丰富的技能吧!

 

Tim Van Steenbergen’s costumes for Richard Wagner’s opera “Die Walküre” performed at La Scala.


Steenbergen’s A/W 2011 collection seeks it’s inspiration in the work of German painter and sculptor Anselm Kiefer, whose paintings and installations use symbolic photographic images to deal ironically with 20th century German history.

 

Steenbergen2011的秋冬系列汲取了德国画家兼雕刻家Anselm Kiefer的作品的灵感,他的画作和装置运用了象征性的图像来讽刺20世纪的德国历史。

 

 A/W 11 lookbook

 


Steenbergen explains that each garment in the collection is a concept in itself, a sensibility of an emotion.

 

他解释道,这一系列中的每件衣服自己本身就是一个概念,一种很感性的情感。

 

“I love the fact that my designs are able to provoke very strong emotions in people who wear them. And it actually doesn’t matter if these emotions are negative or positive — it’s often the controversy that matters. When my designs shake people up,bring exuberance in their lives, and don’t leave them indifferent, I feel like I’ve achieved something very important.” says designer in one of his interviews.

 

Steenbergen在一次访谈中说道:“我喜欢穿上我设计的服装之后的人能够被煽动出非常强烈的情感。无论是积极的还是消极的情绪那并不重要,那通常是这个事件的争论点。当我的设计震撼到了人们,给他们的生命带来了热情,不对他们无动于衷,我感觉我已经完成了非常重要的事情。”

 

A/W 11 editorial

 

Did he achieve this goal with his A/W 2011 collection?

 

在他的2011年秋冬系列中他有实现他的目标吗?

 

In my eyes, the style evolves into a refined pureness and female elegance. It’s very sensitive, calm and beautiful mix of modernity and a hint of some village spirit. That’s what I see looking at the editorial. Quite hypnotizing.

 

在我看来,风格逐渐发展为是优雅的清净和女性的高雅。非常敏感,平静和美丽混合了摩登和一些乡村的精神。这是我看到的这一系列的作品。就是这样的让人着迷。

 

A/W 11 editorial


Tim’s collection have already arrived at Alter, which means you can test it yourself and check if it’s in touch with your emotions.

 

Tim的作品系列现在已经来到Alter,这也就意味着你可以亲自来感受一下它,是否能和你的内心产生共鸣。

 

Don`t forget to share your experience with us!

 

不要忘了和我们分享你的体验经历哦!

 

Aug 17,2011 | Share This | 5 Comments | Reply

Lara Stone x Markus Lupfer’s in-famous lips

 

This season the London-based designer  is bringing  the cool-girl look to Alter!

总部在伦敦的设计师 Markus Lupfer 在这季里面给我们Alter带来了最酷的女孩的形象。

 

To make the short introduction, he graduated from the  with first-class honours degree in 1997. Thanks to his unique style and the artful way he refreshes everyday basics, the German-born designer didn’t wait long for commercial success. His critically acclaimed final year collection was immediately bought by fashion boutique Koh Samui. And shortly after that he was awarded the New Generation Award, in 2001, allowing him to show the label that bears his name.

 

我们简单的给大家介绍一下这位天才设计师,他以第一等级的成绩毕业于1998年。由于他卓越的设计功力和艺术般的判断力给每天穿着的基本款注入了新的元素,这使得他很快在商业上面取得了很大的成功。他最后一年的设计系列很快被服装店Koh Samui买去。很快,他被授予2001年新生代奖,他也获得了展示他同名品牌的机会。

 

 

For Autumn/Winter 2011 a knitwear specialist Markus Lupfer goes beyond the expectations not only in case of his designs. He do understand what does English style means and throws his new collection fete in the most original and whimsical Billiard room in London, and it’s a most welcome break from the traditional fashion show.

 

针织衫设计最为出众的 Markus Lupfer 2011年秋冬带给大家的远远超过了所期望的。他清楚的知道英国风格代表着什么,同时他最新系列的庆祝会在伦敦最原始的和奇特的Billiard房间举行。

 

 

“Kaleidoscopic Tea Party” was the title of Lupfer’s LFW presentation



Everything is perfectly fitted – the models are seated in a Red Grooms–ish version of a train, there are scones, clotted cream, and jam on hand (some other good things about England!), soundtrack includes James Brown’s “Get Up (I Feel Like Being a) Sex Machine” and Smokey Robinson and the Miracles’ “Tears of a Clown” and everyone seems to really enjoy the moment.

 

所有的都准备就位,而且非常完整的表现除了这完美的瞬间-模特们就坐在有点带有红色新郎感觉的火车里,周围有烤饼,凝结的冰欺凌,粘在手上的果酱(这是一些能代表英国的好东西),音乐随即响起,包括了James Brown’s”Get Up(I Feel Like Being a)Sex Machine”以及Smokey RobinsonMiracles”Tears of a Clown”,大家看起来都是如此的享受这一个精心的制造的一个瞬间。

 

 

Models & designer himself sitting on the right


 

 

Gorgeous Olivia Palermo from “The City”, designer’s old friend and muse

 


 

The inspiration behind the collection are the woodlands of  Nordic and Alpine terrains, it’s winter landscapes and the phosphorescent light of sun on the snow that emerges in the metallic Lurex, which is weaved into modern tweed coats and dresses. The effect is amazing and I can imagine how beautiful you must look wearing this coat, shining in the winter sunlight.

 

设计师的灵感来源于北欧的树林地和阿尔卑斯的地势,冬天的地势和阳光在雪地聚集的地方散发着点点磷光,这些都被他的带入了现代的毛绒外套和裙子。 出来的效果太棒了了,我们可以想象穿在身上是多么的有现代女孩的时尚感,穿越在冬季的街头,身上散发着阳光和服装淡淡的火花。

 

 

 

 

Also, for this season Lupfer haven’t forgot about his trademark. An upbeat message for the fall sounds: “You look really good today„ and is spelt out in sequins on simple knitwear shapes. But this is not the most witty part…

 

 同时,在这季Lupfer没有忘记他独特的商标。这个秋季一个强烈的声音传达着一个信息:你看起来很不错,从简单针织衫上面的小亮片散发出来。但是这不是唯一最风趣的一部分。

 

 

 

 

If you have heard about Markus before you have to know his signature – the sequin lips.  Then I assume you are familiar with Lara Stone, the extraordinary Dutch model and her in-famous gap-tooth. Now put these two things together and you got a “laughing lips” sweater – designer’s leitmotif (see first picture!). So playful and sexy. It’s just how the youth supposed to be. It’s one of the reasons why legions of Lupfer’s fans include celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Rihanna, and Lily Allen.

 

如果你已经听过了Markus的大名,你必须要知道他的一个特色签名-闪亮珠片的嘴唇。我设想你对Lara Stone非常了解,她是非常著名的一位荷兰模特和她出名的微微张开的嘴唇。现在我们把这2个东西放在一起,你就得到了这个微笑嘴唇针织衫-设计师的主题。整个是一个好玩而且很性感的感觉,年轻不应该就是这样么。这也是为什么像Gwen StefaniRihanna,和 Lily Allen都是他忠实的粉丝。

 

 

 

It’s a must have!

这个是绝对值得拥有的!

Aug 15,2011 | Share This | 4 Comments | Reply

We all know that shoes are fashionable women's favorite accessory. It has became so common that it’s our obsession that no one longer feels bad about buying another pair of killer heels or soft, delicate slippers. But let’s face it, it`s not only a made up, consumptionist phrase – shoes do have a big meaning, since they shape a whole silhouette and are a perfect way of self-expression. There is no doubt that walking through the crowd wearing a perfect pair of shoes gives us a certain amount of confidence.

 

我们都知道鞋子是时尚女士最爱的附属品。现在,很显然的,买一双秒杀眼球的高跟鞋或者一双柔软精致的拖鞋将不再是个困扰。但是,让我们面对这个情况,这个不是胡乱编造的言论,总而言之-鞋子有它自己独特的意义,就是因为它能创造出一个完美的轮廓和一个极致的自我展示。毫无疑问,穿着一双无以匹敌的时尚美鞋走过人群的时候肯定会给自己增添一定份量的自信。

 

 

Charlotte Olympia Dellal photographed by Julia Kennedy

 

Charlotte Dellal, the designer behind Charlotte Olympia brand seems to fully understand that fact. Halfh-english, half-brazilian, daughter of an ex-model Andrea Dellal, and sister of famous London it-girl, Alice Dellal is one of the most gorgeous women within the business. She graduated from Cordwainers, the prestigious college that also produced Jimmy Choo, and opened a London flagship store last July. You can see follow her blog and see a bit of her fabulous personal style here.

 

Charlotte Dellal,作为Charlotte Olympia 背后的设计师很明白这个道理。 Charlotte Dellal 是一半英国血统,一半巴西血统,也是前名模Andrea Dellal的女儿,姐姐Andrea Dellal是伦敦著名的it-girl 也是在她身处的商业圈里面最为漂亮的女人之一。Charlotte Dellal毕业于Cordwainers,这是一所非常有地位的学校,Jimmy Choo也是毕业于这里,在伦敦的旗舰店已在去年7月开张。你可以从她的BLOG看到她具有魅力的的个人风格。

 

If you feel a bit bored with market crammed with luxury brands like Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin you should definitely take a look at her label. Charlotte Olympia`s always feminine and classic designs are full of colors and amazing small details that give them humoristic twist. Those small touches as well as incredibly high heels or platforms make them stand out of the crowd. Charlotte is constantly in-love with the by-gone era, 1940`s and 50`s and you can really feel that nostalgic retro vibe in her designs.

 

如果你觉得奢侈品牌像Manolo Blahnik Christian Louboutin 太过无聊,那就来看看Charlotte Olympia的品牌。她是一个十分女人和经典结合的设计者,设计充分展示了对颜色的大力运用和令人惊叹的小细节,这是颜色和细节之间进行的一次幽默的扭转。这些小细节的添加是让超高跟鞋或者是前水台部分拥有绝对的出众。Charlotte一直钟情于逝去的纪元,像40年代或者50年代,所以在她的设计中你绝对感觉到那强烈的股怀旧气息。



A/W 2011 collection is called “To Die For” and it`s inspiration ware the queen`s of crime, Agata Christie`s novels. There is a shoe called Arleneafter Dellal’s favorite book character from “Evil U nder the Sun”. The collections is made of beautiful velvets, vivid colors and leopard prints, and again all the lavish details make it very individual and remarkable. Every piece is followed by a gold spider web, which is Charlotte Olympia trademark.

 

There is a short noir-inspired film presenting Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 collection that you can see on style.com. We highly recommend!

 

 

A/W2011秋冬系列取名为“To Die For”,灵感来源于一个Agata Christie’s 的小说-制造罪恶的女王。这里有一个鞋被命名为Arlene,源自于Dellal最喜欢的小说“太阳下的恶魔”里面的角色。这个系列都是用了美丽的天鹅绒,多彩色系和豹纹印花,值得重复说明的是大量细节的使用让鞋子变得无比的个人化和无可替代。每一件都附带有一个金色的蜘蛛网,这个是Charlotte Olympia的专属商标。

我们强烈建议大家到Style.com上面去观看一个具有灵感的小短片,里面展示了Charlotte Olympia 2011秋季的时尚系列。

 

 

                        

 

 

 

 

Aug 08,2011 | Share This | 3 Comments | Reply

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