I wanted to write something about Roland Mouret. And I wanted it to be something more than a shortening of his career or preview of a new collection.

 

我想写一些关于Roland Mouret的一些事,一些不仅仅是关于他的事业或者他设计出来的新系列。

 

 

So, what really kept me busy this morning was trying to uncover the phenomenon of That Dress, in other words, of Mouret’s famous Galaxy dress.

 

今天早上,我一直忙碌于去寻找合适的字眼来表现Mouret最具有代表和影响力的那件设计品,换言之,就是他的名为Galaxy 裙子。

 

 

Easy to say, not easy to achieve, doing my research, I wanted to get to know the story from the bottom.

 

说着容易,做着难,我这次将更深度的来探索他,作为一个当代时尚服装设计师。

 

 

What is so special about this little dress that makes it be worn by every girl celebrity in town?

Ok, it is sexy and elegant at a first glance, but is it really only that?

 

到底这个裙子有些什么魅力,让众多女明星们对它独有情钟?

那么答案很简单,第一眼的看过去就让你对它非常倾心,性感且高雅。仅仅是这样么?

 

 

A Frenchman designer, Roland Mouret had tried many different paths before settling himself in fashion. Being a son of a butcher he first worked with his father in a butcher shop in Lourdes, France. After that he moved to Paris and after 3 months of studying he dropped out of the fashion school. However, once he has entered the industry he never stepped out of it. He started working as a model, artistic director and stylist before moving to London, where during the grunge decade, he opened a bar, and then became creative director for a cool line of streetwear called People Corporation.

 

作为一个法国设计师,Roland Mouret 在进入时尚圈之前有试过很多不同的工作规划。 他是屠夫的儿子,他的第一份工作是在他爸爸一起在一家在法国Lourdes屠宰店工作。之后他搬到了巴黎时尚学校学习,短短3个月之后他便退学了。然而他并没有停止在时尚这个产业里面的继续努力。在搬到伦敦之前,他有做过模特,艺术指导和造型师,当时伦敦正流行着垃圾乐,他便开设了一个酒吧,之后他成为了一个街头品牌名为People Corportation的创意总监。

Designer at work

 

He launched his own label at London Fashion Week 1998, but for the true fame he had to wait until 2005 when the Galaxy was  born.

 

1998年的伦敦时装周上他发布了他自己的品牌,但是到了2005年他才以Galaxy 裙子为他带来了真正的名气。

 

 

Going back to my question – how is it possible that a single dress has gained so much red-carpet exposure?  Is it a matter of tailoring or is it just magic?

 

现在回到我之前的疑问-一件裙子有什么魅力在红毯上抢夺了所有摄影师的镜头?这个到底是缝纫师的的功力还是魔法是真实存在?

 

 

As I found out, The Galaxy's secret is its boned waist 'restrainer' which is made from an elastic fabric first used in 1950's underwear. The French power mesh flattens the stomach, nips in at the waist and gives the wearer a flattering hour glass figure.

 

Simply speaking, it produces a corseted-looking, boobs-n-bum curviness that is so desirable for all Hollywood stars.

 

我发现,Galaxy的秘密是在它有骨骼感的腰部设计,而且这个用料是选用1950年代的内衣用料。具有法式硬朗网状布料把腹部,胸部强力的收紧,把身体曲线的完美的表现出来。

简单的说,这个裙子营造了一个塑身衣式样子和胸臀丰满线条感,它就是一个如此让好莱坞明星为它疯狂的时尚必备品。

 

So is the answer that the Galaxy, poetically speaking, celebrates the shape of women body?

 

那么,Galaxy这件明星大爱的裙子,是对女性身体的一个赞美么?

 

 

I will leave it open for further discussion…

 

我们把这个留给未来讨论

 

Demi Moore, Dita Von Teese and Cameron Diaz in the ‘Galaxy’ dress

 

 

Moving a bit into the present, Roland’s A/W 11 collection has just arrived to our store and I had a pleasure to take a closer look at its pieces.

 

说说现在吧,Roland2011秋冬系列已经来到了我们店,我很荣幸能亲眼欣赏这些完美结晶。

 

 

The first impression I got from seeing the collection is that Mouret‘s style has seriously loosened up since the days of the Galaxy invention.

Tightly tailored, figure hugging frocks are now gone and in their place comes a polished, but decidedly more relaxed vibe.

 

对这些新系列的印象的可以说比往季的设计些列宽松的许多,特别是Galaxy

紧身的缝制,曲线突出的连衣裙在这季已经看不到了,代替它们的是多带有几分轻松和随意。

 

 

 

 So what Roland girl will be wearing this autumn?

 

那么在这季喜欢Roland的女孩们要穿些什么呢?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dresses, obviously, beautifully cut wool or jersey, flowing skirts or stunning full length silk creations with trailing panels.

 

裙子,是这季的主要物件。柔软羊毛织物的美丽剪裁,飘逸的裙摆,丝绸质地的长裙拖尾。

 

 

 

One could ask, if the new Galaxy can be found in this season collection?

 

有一个值得问的是,在这季里面能找到新Galaxy吗?

 

 

It’s hard to say, especially because I feel I still haven`t fully discover its mystery…

However, what I do know is that there is no better new arrival to choose for a party, on which we want to express our femininity than Roland Mouret.

 

很难说,特别是此刻我还没有探索完毕这个神秘的系列

然而,我很清楚的知道除了Roland Mouret 你无法找到更适合去参加派对的新到货品来表现我们的女性面。

 

 

Sep 30,2011 | Share This | 130 Comments | Reply

The chances that you don’t know the name Pierre Hardy yet are relatively small, but even if it happens to be so, you definitely seen his face before. It’s quite one of a kind.

 

要说不知道Pierre Hardy名字的机率应该是非常小的,就算你没有听过他的名字,但是你有看过他的样子。 他就是这么样的一个人。

Pierre Hardy photographed by Mikael Jansson

Like many intensely creative people, Pierre Hardy does not restrict himself to one measly discipline. I have read his biography and being truly impressed decided to share a bit with you…

就像许多非常有创造力的人一样,Pierre Hardy没有把他自己束缚在一个所谓的框架中。我有读过他的自传,并被他的故事深深的感染。

 

As a student of fine arts, Pierre Hardy also studied dance intensively and that seems to be a path that he will follow in his future career.

 

作为一个学习美术的学生,Pierre Hardy 同时学习了跳舞,这个可以看成是他以后人生的事业。

 

 

At the same time he discovered shoes through working as an assistant, a position that quickly lead to him designing the shoe collections for Christian Dior.

 

他在做助理的时候,对鞋子有很深的研究。不难想象,他很快就成为了Christian Dior的鞋履设计师。

 

Expanding his reach Pierre Hardy produced illustrations for magazines like Vogue Homme International and Vanity Fair.

 

为了拓展他自己的设计,Pierre Hardy 为杂志VOGUE HOMME 国际和Vanity展会绘制插画。

 

 

And this is only the beginning…

 

而这仅仅是个他成名和事业的开始

 

 

In 1990 he was named Creative Director of the women’s then men’s footwear collections at Hermès, in 2001 he also became fine jewelry Creative Director for the famous leather goods house and the same year his collaboration with Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga) had began.

 

Pierre Hardy1990年时候,在爱玛仕前后担任了女士和男士鞋的创意总监。2001年,他在著名的皮具品牌担任高级珠宝设计总监。自从2001年,他和Nicolas Ghesquiere的合作后,他自己又得到了近一步的发展,从而为他的设计进入了巴黎世家鞋的系列。

 

 

For spring 1999, Pierre Hardy created his first collection of women’s shoes under his own name. In 2002 and 2006, respectively, he followed up with men’s and bag lines and from then he is a frontier accessories designer.

 

1999年春季,Pierre Hardy开办了和他同名的首个系列。20022006年,他也添加了男士系列和箱包系列。自从2003年以来,他的系列已拥有了自己的珠宝组合。

 A/W 11 Collection

 

It is a phenomenon how fast he has became so hot in Hollywood, receiving requests from Nicole Kidman for custom made shoes and handbags for the Oscars and SAG awards.

 

他如今之快的成为一个好莱坞赤手可热的当红设计师简直就是一个奇迹,他获得为Nicole Kidman设计鞋子,以及为奥斯卡颁奖礼和SAG颁奖礼设计手包。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is no doubt that his bags and shoes are celebrities’ favorite peak this season.

不用怀疑,他品牌的包和鞋子绝对是这季明星的大爱。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leighton Meester (Gossip Girl’ s Blair) wearing Pierre Hardy bag

 

 

Now you have a chance to enter the realm of glamour and get the IT bag at Alter!

 

现在你有机会进入魅力的核心领域,去Alter购买正当红的IT bag

 

 

 

Sep 21,2011 | Share This | 54 Comments | Reply

Would you ever wonder that for Fall 2011 (think fashion) Maasai tribe and rococo Versailles will meet the in New York?

你会幻想在2011秋冬秀场上,当马赛部落和洛可可凡尔赛相遇是怎样的一个场景么?

 

Well, even if such a weird thought has ever came to your head (which probably means your imagination is far in excess) for most people it still sounds a bit insane.

 

很有可能你的头脑中会闪现一个非常怪异的念头(这差不多表示你拥有着惊人的想象力)对很多人来说可能会非常的不可理喻。

 

As it turns out, not for a designer Thakoon Panichgul. The idea had grown in his mind and happened to be a huge triumph when presenting his Fall collection.

 

 

事实上,对Thakoon Panichgul来说并不奇怪。这些创意在他的头脑中萌发出了独有的意境,并且给他的秋季系列带来了绝对的成功演绎。

 

What a twisted mix, you think! But isn’t it what we love about fashion? - no barriers, no rules, as long as it remains beautiful everything is accepted.

 

你是不是在想说,多么奇怪的一个混搭!但这不就是我们对时尚如此着迷的原因所在嚒?-没有任何样式的阻碍,没有颜色的约束,只要表现出了它的美感就值得被认同。

 

        

      

    

 

In A/W 11 collection Thakoon mingles Maasai draping with Victorian tailoring and against all expectations it goes together pretty well.

 

2011秋冬系列中, Thakoon结合了马赛族群的垂坠设计和维多利亚时期的缝纫工艺,先不管所有的期望会是怎样,但是这两种截然不同的服饰特色搭建出了完美的视觉感。

 

 

Imagine 18th-century Europen dress in the puffed-out hips, bustles, and  breakaway coats enriched with cheery yellow batik and bright Maasai plaid of blue and crimson…ok. i know it's not that easy to picture it without a visible exampel… <catwalk>

 

想象一下18世纪欧式长裙配上高翘的臀部线条设计,后背部的衬垫,分离式的外套和亮黄色的染布紧密的结合,马赛部落独有的蓝色和红色的格子花……等等,我知道没有看到真实的图片之前是很难描绘出这个系列的亮点。<T台秀>

 

Silhouettes are simple and vital, not sporty but really wearable. It doesn’t take a lot of effort to look fabulous and no doubt you won`t stand unnoticed in a crowd. 

 

简单并且有生机的轮廓并不等于它就是一件运动感的服装,更多的是表现出了它的可穿性。你并不需要花太多精力去让自己看起来气质不凡,而且根本不用去怀疑是否被熙熙攘攘的人群忘记了自己的存在。

 

 

Isn’t it an essence of what we want for the fall?

 

这不就是我们在这个秋季想要吗?

 

Designer himself described the collection as "fanciful, but pavement" and states that “fall doesn’t have to mean wool, fur, and leather.”

设计师是这样形容他的系列“有想像力,并且实际好穿”,也就是说:“秋天不一定非要搭配皮草,皮革和毛料。”

 

What an accurate thought! Let’s stop this yearly, boring habit and start playing with colours and fabric. Who sad autumn has to be less bright than summer?

他的想法太正确了!让我们停止每年无趣的穿衣习惯,开始运用颜色和布料的搭配吧。谁说秋天的颜色一定要比夏日的暗沉呢?!   

  

 

Sep 16,2011 | Share This | 7 Comments | Reply

On the night of 11th, September, Alter was presenting 2011 A/W preview and pre-party for celebriting the biggest fashion event “Vogue Fashion’s Night Out” at XinTianDi Style in Shanghai. Over hundred guests came to Alter to join this fablous fashion’s night out. Alter would like to say thank you to everyone who came to our show, and thank you to our sponsors Bacardi, Toni & Guy.

 

Please check our amazing photos!

 

 

911日,Alter在新天地时尚门店举行了庆祝“Vogue FNO摩登不夜城”盛典的秋冬季服装展示,作为首次在上海的世界级时尚活动,Alter秀出了最好表演。 当晚,近百名来自媒体界的朋友和嘉宾出席了Alter秋冬季的时装发布,并且对本次活动和秋冬季新品都赞叹不已!Alter在这里要感谢出席此次派对的来宾,以及对我们大力支持的赞助商BacardiToni&Guy。

 

请看看我们的活动盛况吧!

 

 

 

 

Sep 13,2011 | Share This | 0 Comments | Reply

On the spot: A rising star on a Paris fashion circuit has just joined Alter designer’s forces. I am talking about Anthony Vaccarello, a Belgian-born and Italian-descended designer, who ruled the last fashion week with his slender, tempting silhouettes.

 

热点聚焦: 来自巴黎的时尚新星Vaccarello刚加入了 Alter 设计师队伍。Vaccarello,一个出身于比利时有着意大利血统的设计师,他以他强有力的细长look在刚过去的时装周上大出风头。

 

AV show on the first day of Paris Fashion Week

 

Anthony studied fashion at the prestigious La Cambre school in Brussels and his graduate collection was presented at the fashion festival in Hyeres in the South of France in 2006 where it won the «Grand Prix mode». Then he went on to work for Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi where he specialized in fur designs.

A brilliant decision to strike out on his own to create an independent brand fruited in 2008 – the lebel Anthony Vaccarello was born.

The latest new is Anthony won one of the most prestigious awards within the industry – ANDAM Fashion Award and took home €200,000 prize.

 

Anthony 毕业于布鲁塞尔著名的La Cambre 学院,2006年,他和他的毕业系列被邀参加了位于法国南部的服装盛宴,并赢得了《最佳系列金奖》。接着他到了Fendi,在Karl Lagerfeld手下做皮草类的设计与研究。

创造一个完全独立服装品牌的梦想最终实现于2008年——以Anthony Vaccarello为名的品牌诞生了。

而如今他已在ANDAM时尚周赢得了€200,000的奖金和服装界最具潜力的新星的称号。

 

   A/W 11 catwalk   

 

His Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection reflects a desire to combine different eras with artists who have inspired him in his creativity. Thus, slender silhouettes from the 20's that have a futuristic medieval touch. With Mondrian’s graphics, Paul Soulages’ shades of blacks, and Rebecca Horn’s scalpel like cuts, Vaccarello’s collection is a mingle of inspirations.

 

 "I was inspired by the idea of a woman carrying her femininity with armour. It was also about art deco meets the metropolis," Vaccarello explains. 

 

2011-2012秋冬系列,他将各种各样具有启发性的灵感元素结合在了一起。所以我们可以同时看到,来自上世纪20年代细长的廓形,还有带有中世纪古典主义的未来派风格。蒙德里安的抽象学,保罗的黑灰层次,丽贝卡的刀片式剪裁……Vaccarello的系列是一个充斥着各种灵感的荟萃。

“一个气质优雅并身穿盔甲的女人,这个画面让我产生了灵感。并且我们还有装置艺术与都会风格的结合。”  

 

Stunning Abbey Lee wearing AV creation

 

The collection is a black statement, but only in case of colour. Anthony loves black and its authority. A color that has no compromise.

He got my full support for this, because in my opinion no matter how many times you hear that something is a new black, it’s always a lie. There is no second black.

 

整个系列是一场黑色的诉说,它是最具独特魅力的颜色。Anthony热爱黑色和它不可替代的权威性。黑色,一个无可商量的颜色。

黑色在这里得到了我的全力支持。在我的观念里不管人们对你说多少次本季某某颜色是“新的黑色”,他们总是在撒谎。世界上没有第二个黑色。

 

Not to find it boring or outdated Anthony plays with light, unveils the dark shades and combine stiff and masculine texture like felt, with sharp cuts that reveal skin normally hidden.

He draws the female figure to look stringent and sensual, being both rigorous and lightweight but still graphic and radically black.

 

为了不让作品显得陈旧与无聊,Anthony运用光影来操控这一切,深度的明度结合男性化的毛毡材质,并运用尖锐的剪裁来展露我们通常不会展露的皮肤部分。

他绘制出那些严肃而性感的女性造型,严肃而轻盈的形象诉说的黑色的本质。

 

 

 

A/W 11 Look Book featuring Lou Dillion

 

So damn sexy…

 

 真是绝顶的性感

 

  See how our girl Amiki rocks the look!

 

看我们的Amiki如何点亮了我们的造型。

 

 

 

  

Sep 02,2011 | Share This | 6 Comments | Reply

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