Paris brand Aperlai has been one of the hottest shoes brand in ALTER.  Aperlai, the luxury shoe line founded by Alessandra Lanvin in 2009, takes its name from an ancient lycian city, a 20 minutes boat ride away from her family house, a nest of happy memories and summer feasts.

奢侈女鞋品牌APERLAI来自巴黎I,是ALTER最畅销的女鞋品牌之一,2009年由Alessandra Lanvin创立,名字取于一座利西亚古城,这里距她家的房子只需要乘小船20分钟,这里充满了她对自己成长的幸福家庭和盛夏假日的快乐回忆。


Alessandra Lanvin, 30 years old has a degree in political science and history of art. She worked as head-hunter in Paris in the luxury industry. French lifestyle blog “Frenchologie” recently caught up with Aperlai's Alessandra to ask her some all important questions…

Alessandra Lanvin30岁,拥有政治学和艺术史学位。她曾经在巴黎奢侈品行业担任猎头。法式生活博客“Frenchologie”最近采访了Alessandra,问她一些很私人的八卦问题

1. What is your favourite word? TIME

您最喜欢的一个词? 时间 

2. What is your least favourite word? IMPOSSIBLE 

 您最讨厌的一个词? 不可能

3. What turns you on? INTELLIGENCE

 什么会让您兴(性)奋起来? 智慧

4. What turns you off? PRETENTION

 什么会让您兴(性)扫下来? 自命不凡

5. What sound or noise do you love? My sons voice

 您爱的声音/噪音? 我儿子的声音

6. What sound or noise do you hate? The accountant calls

 您恨的声音/噪音? 会计的来电

7. What is your favorite curse word? I'm Italian… you can imagine! ;)

 您最爱的骂人词? 我是意大利人……您可以自由想象了!;)

8. What profession, other than your own, would you like to attempt? ARCHITECTURE

 除了您现在的职业还有什么领域您愿意尝试的? 建筑学

9. What profession would you not like to do? ACCOUNTANT

 什么职业您最不想做? 会计

10. If heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the pearly gates? "ALL THE PEOPLE YOU LOVE ARE HERE WITH YOU!"

如果天堂存在,当您到了天国之门的时候想听到上帝给那你说什么? “你爱的所有人都在这里和你一起呢!”


11. Your favorite qualities in a woman? DETERMINATION/LOYALTY/STYLE/CHARM

 您最爱的女性的特质是什么?毅力/忠贞/格调/魅力

12. Your favorite qualities in a man? DETERMINATION/LOYALTY/HUMOUR/CHARM

 你最爱的男人的特质是什么?毅力/忠贞/幽默/魅力

13. What's your idea of happiness? APERLAI (MY FAMILY SUMMER HOUSE)

 您对幸福的定义是什么? Aperlai (我全家的盛夏房屋)

14. What is your greatest extravagance? WEARING TWO SHOES OF THE SAME STYLE BUT IN DIFFERENT COLOURS.

 您最大的奢侈是什么? 穿两只款式一样但是颜色不同的鞋子

15. Which talent would you most like to have? TO SING

 您最想要的才华是什么?唱歌

16. What is your favorite occupation? SPENDING TIME WITH MY THREE YEAR OLD.

 最喜欢做的事情? 和我三岁的儿子在一起

17. What do you hate the most? BETRAYAL

 最讨厌的事情是? 背叛

18. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? "YES"

您最爱最常用的单词是什么? “Yes

19. On what occasion do you lie? TO AVOID HURTING SOMEONE

 什么情况下你会撒谎? 避免伤害别人的时候

20. You favourite food and drink? CHAMPAGNE ROSE BILLECART-SALMON & 42RAW food (resturant in copenhagen)

您最爱的食物和酒水? 法国沙龙帝皇玫瑰干香槟葡萄酒, 42 生食(哥本哈根的餐厅)


Nov 19,2013 | Share This | 10,647 Comments | Reply

Rejina Pyo is an award winning Korean born fashion designer based in London. She is currently working on the third season of her eponymous label.

Rejina Pyo是一名屡获大奖的韩裔驻伦敦时装设计师,她目前刚推出自己品牌第三季系列。

 

Immediately after graduating from her MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins she was taken on by Roksanda Ilincic to work as her first assistant designer. After a year there she left the company to work full time on a commission she received as part of the Han Nefkens Fashion award which she won in early 2012 (judged by Penny Martin – Chief editor at Gentlewoman, Viktor & Rolf, Han Nefkens and Jose Teunissen). As part of this award she was commissioned to create an installation for the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam. Entitled ‘Structural Mode’ this statement collection worked on the boundary between wearable garments and art works, fusing together elements of fashion and sculpture. The collection was exhibited from September 2012 to February 2013 and will be shown again as part of another exhibition later this year.

在中央圣马丁学院毕业获得时装设计硕士后,她到Roksanda Ilincic工作,成为她的第一助理设计师。在那里一年后,她开始全职为自己工作, 获得Han Nefkens时装奖,在2012年年初赢得了第一桶金(评委是《淑女》主编Penny MartinViktor & RolfHan NefkensJose Teunissen)。作为这个奖项的一部分,她被委任在鹿特丹博物馆布尼根创建一个艺术装置。题为“结构模式”, 这一作品系列游走在穿戴的服装和艺术作品之间的边界,融合时尚元素和雕塑。收集展出从20129月至20132月和今年晚些时候将再次显示作为其他一些展览的一部分。

Inspired by modern art and architecture, Rejina Pyo created a stand out collection for her Central Saint Martins MA show at London Fashion Week. Her use of wooden sculptures together with fluid dresses created a beautifully idiosyncratic mood that captured the attention of the fashion press. Following her show Rejina was chosen by the H&M owned ‘Weekday’, to create a range of designs based on her MA collection that were sold in over 30 of their stores across Europe. Pieces from her MA collection were also selected by Vassilis Zidianakis the curator of the ‘ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion’ exhibition to feature in their shows at the Benaki Museum in Athens and the Gallery La Gaite Lyrique in Paris.

受到现代艺术和建筑的启发,Rejina在伦敦时装周上设计的系列在中央圣马丁设计学院研究生秀上脱颖而出。她利用木雕与流体礼服一起创建了一个精美的情绪特质,成功捕获时尚媒体的关注。紧接着她的时装展之后,在她的硕士设计毕业系列基础上,Rejina被选入HM的“平日”系列,在欧洲超过30家门店销售。 她的艺术硕士毕业系列也被策展人Vassilis Zidianakis选为“ARRRGH时装展上的怪物”, 在雅典贝纳基博物馆和巴黎La Gaite Lyrique画廊展览。

 

How was your journey to become a designer?

您是如何成为设计师的?

My mum was a fashion designer when she was young and I always looked at her sketchbooks when I was a kid. They looked incredible! Whenever she was making something, I wrapped the fabric around me and played with it. I started to learn how to use a sewing machine from her and made some dresses when I was 14. I grew up around fashion. It was almost a natural thing to become a fashion designer.

我妈妈年轻的时候也是时装设计师,当我还是个孩子的时候就经常看她的草图。我每每看到都很吃惊,每当她开始制作些什么的时候,我就会在旁白玩弄布料。我14岁的时候就跟她开始学习使用缝纫机并开始制作一些裙子。我在时尚的气氛里成长起来,所以变成一名时装设计师是很自然的事情了。

How would you define your style-brand in 3 words?

用三个字形容一下您的品牌风格?

Intelligent, effortless with a twist

智慧,毫不费力又有惊喜。

How would you describe your latest collection?

描述一下您最新的一季?

AW13 collection was an experimentation of contrasting textures, fur, wool, laminated fabric, metallic fabric, jacquard, etc. The colours were calmer and subtle, focusing on the fabrics and shapes.

2013秋冬集合系列是对比纹理,皮草,羊毛,夹层布,金属布的实验性尝试,提花颜色是冷静和含蓄的,很注重面料和形状。

 

Photo by Mieke Tacken(Spring Globe!)

Interview by Veronica Del Valle

Translation by Sam Shusen Guo

 


Nov 18,2013 | Share This | 5,298 Comments | Reply

1You were born in South Africa, can you briefly tell us about your move to Europe and what you did there?

您在南非出生,能简单介绍一下为什么搬到欧洲又做了些什么吗?

I  moved to Paris where I studied fashion design and then went to New York to work for fellow South African, Marc Bouwer. I came back to Europe to live in Greece, where I started designing my own pieces. Now I am based in London.

我搬到巴黎,在这边学习了时尚设计,后来去了纽约,在一个南非的朋友那里工作。他叫Marc Bouwer。我后来又搬回欧洲住在希腊,在那里我开始设计自己的东西。现在我主要在伦敦工作。


2) You studied architecture as well, has that had any influence on your fashion design?

您之前也学习过建筑设计,这对您的时尚设计有影响吗?

Very much so. Even though I was not a very conscientious student, I was very much influenced by the projects we were given, and the way we were encouraged to think about problems

非常大的影响,虽然在这方面我不算是尽责的好学生把,但是我被自己之前接手过的项目影响很大,这让我学会了如何去思考问题。


3) You’ve travelled quite a bit, do you have a favourite place? And a favourite fashion destination?

您有很多的旅游,请问您有没有自己最喜欢的地方?以及最喜欢的时尚地是哪里?

My favourite place is South Africa, the Kruger and Sabi sands reserves to be more specific. I absolutely love the bush. It is my favourite destination for all purposes. One day I hope to move there我最爱的地方是南非,很喜欢克鲁格和萨比的沙子和丛林。这是我最爱的地方,我希望一天我还能搬到那里去住。


4) How has your childhood in South Africa influenced your designs?

您在南非的童年怎样影响到你的设计的?

I think as South Africans we are exposed to so many different cultures it keeps our minds open. I was also brought up with a very strong connection to nature, learning all about birds and trees from a very young age, with my mini binoculars! I am still very much influenced by nature and the simple observation of my surroundings.

我觉得南非有很多的文化类型,这让我们的思想都很开放。我从小和自然也有很强的关系,很小的时候就用我的超小望远镜来观察学习鸟类和树植了!我现在也很仔细的观察我周围的自然环境并从中获取灵感。

5) You’ve been working with Natalie Hartley, how has that been?

您和Natalie Hartley有过合作,感觉怎么样?

Natalie is one of my favourite people. She’s just super laid-back and positive and has been a wonderful influence on the collections. She knows how to make anything cool. I love working with her.

Natalie是我最喜欢的人之一了。她非常的平易近人有非常的乐观,一直对我的设计系列有很好的影响。她知道如何把事物设计的非常酷。我很喜欢和她一起合作。

6) You were named as one of Marie Claire’s (UK) 5 new designers to watch, what does this mean to you?

您被嘉人(英国)杂志评价为最值得关注的5位新锐设计师,这对您意味着什么?

It is always a bit of a surprise! I feel really honoured. I admire the work of some of the other designers they mentioned, and that always makes me feel humbled but grateful to be a part of it all.

这对我来说一直是一个惊喜!我感觉非常的荣幸!我很欣赏其他的被提名的设计师,和他们相比我总是感觉这是一种荣耀,能和他们一起被提名。

7) Do you have a certain client you aim your designs at or do you just stick to a certain style?

您有没有固定的顾客作为设计对象或者说您有没有一直保持的设计风格?

I stopped trying to aim them at anyone a while back. It’s just too distracting. In the end of the day if you stick to what’s true for you, your customer finds you, and you learn about them in the process. There’s a give and take. I could never sit down and decide what they would want to wear. It’s too personal. If your brand philosophy is strong enough, it will attract the relevant client. That’s what I’m working on.

我已经很久没有专门把我任何人定位我要设计的对象了。这非常的令人分心。到最后我必须要坚持自己的设计想法,你的客人会找到你,你再从她们哪里了解她们。这就是一种给予和获取的过程,我从来没有坐在自己的工作室里去为她们决定她们应该穿什么。这是很个人的想法。如果你的品牌哲学足够的强大,它会吸引到一定的客人,这就是我要努力去做到的。

8) You’ve showcased at London Fashion week and been featured in multiple publications, what do you think you’re doing right? And what’s the plan to keep this up?

您已经参加了伦敦时装周,而且在很多刊物上都被报道过了,您觉得是由于您做了哪些获得了这样的成绩?有什么计划需要继续保持的?

I have no idea what I’m doing right, if anything! I think the one thing that has helped me is stubbornness. Plans are not my strongpoint. I know that things change more than they ever stay the same. I try to keep as flexible and open as possible.

我也不知道我是怎么做到的,只要有就是对的吧!我觉得有一件事是我是对的就是固执。计划并不是我的强项。我一直知道计划永远赶不上变化。我尝试做到尽可能的可变并且开放。

9) What would you like to see in the future of Alexis Barrell? And what’s your short and long term plans to get there?

您对Alexis Barrell这个品牌的未来怎么看?您的长短期计划是什么?

The future of Alexis Barrell is to come more into its own as a brand, with a recognisable aesthetic and point of view. As for plans, well I told you what I think of them!

Alexis Barrell的未来作为一个品牌将会更加的注重自己,具有非常强烈鲜明的主张想法。至于计划,我已经告诉了你我对计划的想法了。

Text By: @MegStaDeane

Alexis Barrell’s  AW13 collection “Metropolis” 

Metropolis” was inspired by German expressionism, Berlin street art and punk scene and consists of futuristic cuts and androgynous shapes; playing with texturing contrasts of calf skins and mohair vs strict technical fabrics along with signature silks and colour accents ranging from urban concrete, steel and black on black to the colourful palettes of Helen Frankenthaler.

“大都会”受到德国表现主义、柏林街头艺术和朋克场景的启发,包括的未来派削减和中性轮廓,运用纹理的对比,特色的丝绸和强调色彩的层次,从城市混凝土,钢材,小腿皮肤和马海毛与严格的技术面料对比和从黑色到Helen Frankenthaler式的五颜六色调色板。

Photo By costumederigueur.com

Nov 15,2013 | Share This | 879 Comments | Reply

"I love making art that’s useful.  I’m fascinated by manipulating fabric into a sculpture and architectural prototypes. Being able to make it walk is amazing!”

“我喜欢创造实用的艺术品。我着迷于把制衣面料改造成一个雕塑和建筑原型,能让艺术品行走起来感觉真是棒极了!”

 

 

A collection of creative masterpieces and a most-wanted fan base including Lady Gaga, Alicia Keys and Beyonce, it’s no wonder Fashion Designer Georgia Hardinge’s career is all go-go-go!

London born and French educated Georgia has had a pretty impressive career to date. From designing showpieces for the most infatuating fashion show on the planet (Victoria’s Secret), to a collaboration with River Island that’s been so successful we want more, all we can say is watch this space – and check our interview with the lady herself..

集合创造性的杰作,包括Lady GagaAlicia Keys和碧昂丝在内的庞大的粉丝群。生于伦敦,在法国接收设计教育的Georgia Hardinge,设计生涯如日中天。从为最华丽诱人的维多利亚的秘密时尚秀设计走秀作品,到和River Island的合作,一路事业开绿灯,我们想要看到更多的Georgia Hardinge作品,一起看看这次采访。

When did your fashion journey begin?

您的时尚生涯始于哪里?

The journey began with my Mother, she was a stylist and always loved dressing me up, I was a tomboy and hated wearing dresses. Looking back I love to see all the different styles and enjoy looking through the albums of my birthday tea parties wearing the sweetest matching outfits.

我的时尚旅程从我母亲哪里开始。她是一名造型师,一直都穿着靓丽时尚,我从小是个假小子,非常讨厌穿裙子。现在回顾我小时候每年生日的照片,我最爱看的就是我搭配精致的服装。

Where do you source your inspiration?

您的灵感来自哪里?

My inspiration always relies heavily on architecture as a base, but I also find myself being inspired by so much more including poetry, literature, installation artists and geometric forms. For my ‘Book Collection’ I wanted to recreate a sculpture with novels I’d read in the past and manipulate them into a print that flatters the female silhouette. My muse and someone I’m inspired by every season is Jennifer Connelly. She is very classic and elegant, yet has an experimental edge to her look which I love. A constant muse is one of my best friends, Annabelle Wallis, she is a talented actress and a very inspiring woman with an incredible personal style – the perfect woman! When starting a new collection I like to research as much as possible before creating paper sculptures to find the perfect architectural shape to inspire the print and silhouettes. Artists and artistic movements featured heavily in my upbringing and continue to inspire and influence me daily.

我的灵感总是很强的以来于建筑学中,但是我也被诗词,文学,装置艺术和地理形态所激发。在我的“书合集”中我想要创造一种从我所读的小说文字中获取灵感印出印花制作出女性服装轮廓。我的灵感缪斯一直是Jennifer Connelly。她非常优雅有品位,又有一种我非常爱的冷酷气质。还有一个灵感缪斯是我的朋友,Annabelle Wallis,她是位非常有才华的演员,非常励志的女性人物,拥有令人惊叹的个人生活方式,她简直是一名完美的女人!每当我开始构思新的设计的时候,我会尽可能在创造纸质设计之前找到能给我灵感的建筑形状去启发我的设计印花和框架。艺术家和艺术运动总会在我的作品中体现出来,每日都在激发我灵感也将会一直激发下去。

 

 

What advice would you give aspiring designers?

您会给新设计师什么建议呢?

I think industry experience is the best way to truly learn, so completing as many internships as you can whilst at University is so important!

我觉得行业内的经验是最好的真正学习的方式。所以尽量完成更多的实习工作因为你在大学学习的过程是如此的重要!

 

(by: Katrina Judd)

Nov 14,2013 | Share This | 9,302 Comments | Reply

 

Chelsea became the most important Contemporary Art gallery district in the world with startling speed. Between 1996 and 2007 the number of commercial galleries in Chelsea grew from 12 to at least 231, dwarfing other art districts in the United States and elsewhere and supplanting SoHo, once the most dynamic gallery neighborhood in New York City. 

 

切尔西已经变成了世界范围内的当代艺术集聚地。从1996年到2007年当地的商业画廊从12家增加至231家。使得美国其他艺术地区相形见绌,同时也超过了一度为纽约市最活跃的艺术街区SOHO

 

 

Flora Gill and Alexa Adams launched their label Ohne Titel—German for "untitled"—in 2006. Both Parsons grads and Karl Lagerfeld alums, the two built their women’s ready-to-wear line with an emphasis on crafty techniques (macramé, crochet) and sporty, futuristic-looking silhouettes. Suits are a staple, with both masculine (slouchy, boyfriend trousers) and feminine (fitted, body-conscious blazers) influences. In 2008, Ohne Titel enlisted Cesare Paciotti to produce its first collection of shoes.

Ohne Titel是由2位女设计师Flora GillAlexa Adams创建的纽约高级女装品牌。Ohne Titel品牌于20069月成立, 20091月,Ohne Titel赢得了“Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award”年度女装设计奖。计师Flora GillAlexa Adams都自帕森斯设计学院 (Parson's School of Design) 毕业。她们在1999年即成为密友,在2005年,Flora Gill Alexa Adams齐聚卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld) 旗下共同工作,1年后,她们出来共同创建了自己的品牌Ohne Titel

 

 

With their studio in the heart of Chelsea's gallery district, Flora Gill and Alexa Adams like to pop in to see new art shows whenever they get the chance. "It's a delicate balance," says Gill. "You have to keep your idea, your zeitgeist of the brand and kind of expand it and evolve it." Watch our video below to see from 2013 fall/winter runway show to see how two artists' work in particular (Tauba Auerbach's woven tape paintings and Rupert Deese's geometric plywood panels) provided the inspirational foundation for the Ohne Titel collection, moving from spring's soft, wavy shapes to more structured grids and tiny plastic squares that would eventually provide accent and texture to some of their final looks.

由于她们的工作室就在切尔西画廊区,Flora GillAlexa Adams一有机会就会去看艺术展。Gill说:“这是一种微妙的平衡”。 “你必须保持你的想法,你品牌的时代精神和种类的扩大和发展。”我们一起从视频中看一下2013秋冬发布会,她们是如何受到了艺术家的启发。尤其是Tauba Auerbach的编织磁带绘画和Rupert Deese几何胶合板面板为本季Ohne Titel提供的灵感基础,把春装系列的柔软、波浪形状变成更为结构化的网格和微小的塑料方块,最终达到了这种着重于纹理的秋冬系列。

 


 Ohne Titel FALL WINTER 2013/14 Runway Show

 

灵感来源Inspiration: Rupert Deese, Upper Kern River 5, 2007, oil on plywood and fiberglass, 41 x 71 inches

 

灵感来源Inspiration: Rupert Deese, Kern River/23 (pale blue), 2012, oil on wood, 23 x 39 1/2 inches

 

灵感来源Inspiration: Tauba Auerbach, Corner IV, 2011 Woven canvas on wooden stretcher, 152.4 x 114.3 cm

 

灵感来源Inspiration: Shadow Weave (Interlock, image), 2011, Woven canvas on wooden stretcher, 152.4 x 114.3 cm

Ohne Titel A/W 2013

Nov 13,2013 | Share This | 23 Comments | Reply

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