Paris brand Aperlai has been one of the hottest shoes brand in ALTER. Aperlai, the luxury shoe line founded by Alessandra Lanvin in 2009, takes its name from an ancient lycian city, a 20 minutes boat ride away from her family house, a nest of happy memories and summer feasts.
Alessandra Lanvin, 30 years old has a degree in political science and history of art. She worked as head-hunter in Paris in the luxury industry. French lifestyle blog “Frenchologie” recently caught up with Aperlai's Alessandra to ask her some all important questions…
1. What is your favourite word? TIME
2. What is your least favourite word? IMPOSSIBLE
3. What turns you on? INTELLIGENCE
4. What turns you off? PRETENTION
5. What sound or noise do you love? My sons voice
6. What sound or noise do you hate? The accountant calls
7. What is your favorite curse word? I'm Italian… you can imagine!
8. What profession, other than your own, would you like to attempt? ARCHITECTURE
9. What profession would you not like to do? ACCOUNTANT
10. If heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the pearly gates? "ALL THE PEOPLE YOU LOVE ARE HERE WITH YOU!"
11. Your favorite qualities in a woman? DETERMINATION/LOYALTY/STYLE/CHARM
12. Your favorite qualities in a man? DETERMINATION/LOYALTY/HUMOUR/CHARM
13. What's your idea of happiness? APERLAI (MY FAMILY SUMMER HOUSE)
您对幸福的定义是什么？ Aperlai (我全家的盛夏房屋)
14. What is your greatest extravagance? WEARING TWO SHOES OF THE SAME STYLE BUT IN DIFFERENT COLOURS.
15. Which talent would you most like to have? TO SING
16. What is your favorite occupation? SPENDING TIME WITH MY THREE YEAR OLD.
17. What do you hate the most? BETRAYAL
18. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? "YES"
19. On what occasion do you lie? TO AVOID HURTING SOMEONE
20. You favourite food and drink? CHAMPAGNE ROSE BILLECART-SALMON & 42RAW food (resturant in copenhagen)
您最爱的食物和酒水？ 法国沙龙帝皇玫瑰干香槟葡萄酒， 42 生食（哥本哈根的餐厅）
How was your journey to become a designer?
My mum was a fashion designer when she was young and I always looked at her sketchbooks when I was a kid. They looked incredible! Whenever she was making something, I wrapped the fabric around me and played with it. I started to learn how to use a sewing machine from her and made some dresses when I was 14. I grew up around fashion. It was almost a natural thing to become a fashion designer.
How would you define your style-brand in 3 words?
Intelligent, effortless with a twist
How would you describe your latest collection?
AW13 collection was an experimentation of contrasting textures, fur, wool, laminated fabric, metallic fabric, jacquard, etc. The colours were calmer and subtle, focusing on the fabrics and shapes.
Photo by Mieke Tacken(Spring Globe!)
Interview by Veronica Del Valle
Translation by Sam Shusen Guo
1）You were born in South Africa, can you briefly tell us about your move to Europe and what you did there?
I moved to Paris where I studied fashion design and then went to New York to work for fellow South African, Marc Bouwer. I came back to Europe to live in Greece, where I started designing my own pieces. Now I am based in London.
2) You studied architecture as well, has that had any influence on your fashion design?
Very much so. Even though I was not a very conscientious student, I was very much influenced by the projects we were given, and the way we were encouraged to think about problems
3) You’ve travelled quite a bit, do you have a favourite place? And a favourite fashion destination?
My favourite place is South Africa, the Kruger and Sabi sands reserves to be more specific. I absolutely love the bush. It is my favourite destination for all purposes. One day I hope to move there我最爱的地方是南非，很喜欢克鲁格和萨比的沙子和丛林。这是我最爱的地方，我希望一天我还能搬到那里去住。
4) How has your childhood in South Africa influenced your designs?
I think as South Africans we are exposed to so many different cultures it keeps our minds open. I was also brought up with a very strong connection to nature, learning all about birds and trees from a very young age, with my mini binoculars! I am still very much influenced by nature and the simple observation of my surroundings.
5) You’ve been working with Natalie Hartley, how has that been?
Natalie is one of my favourite people. She’s just super laid-back and positive and has been a wonderful influence on the collections. She knows how to make anything cool. I love working with her.
6) You were named as one of Marie Claire’s (UK) 5 new designers to watch, what does this mean to you?
It is always a bit of a surprise! I feel really honoured. I admire the work of some of the other designers they mentioned, and that always makes me feel humbled but grateful to be a part of it all.
7) Do you have a certain client you aim your designs at or do you just stick to a certain style?
I stopped trying to aim them at anyone a while back. It’s just too distracting. In the end of the day if you stick to what’s true for you, your customer finds you, and you learn about them in the process. There’s a give and take. I could never sit down and decide what they would want to wear. It’s too personal. If your brand philosophy is strong enough, it will attract the relevant client. That’s what I’m working on.
8) You’ve showcased at London Fashion week and been featured in multiple publications, what do you think you’re doing right? And what’s the plan to keep this up?
I have no idea what I’m doing right, if anything! I think the one thing that has helped me is stubbornness. Plans are not my strongpoint. I know that things change more than they ever stay the same. I try to keep as flexible and open as possible.
9) What would you like to see in the future of Alexis Barrell? And what’s your short and long term plans to get there?
The future of Alexis Barrell is to come more into its own as a brand, with a recognisable aesthetic and point of view. As for plans, well I told you what I think of them!
Text By: @MegStaDeane
Alexis Barrell’s AW13 collection “Metropolis”
“Metropolis” was inspired by German expressionism, Berlin street art and punk scene and consists of futuristic cuts and androgynous shapes; playing with texturing contrasts of calf skins and mohair vs strict technical fabrics along with signature silks and colour accents ranging from urban concrete, steel and black on black to the colourful palettes of Helen Frankenthaler.
Photo By costumederigueur.com
"I love making art that’s useful. I’m fascinated by manipulating fabric into a sculpture and architectural prototypes. Being able to make it walk is amazing!”
A collection of creative masterpieces and a most-wanted fan base including Lady Gaga, Alicia Keys and Beyonce, it’s no wonder Fashion Designer Georgia Hardinge’s career is all go-go-go!
London born and French educated Georgia has had a pretty impressive career to date. From designing showpieces for the most infatuating fashion show on the planet (Victoria’s Secret), to a collaboration with River Island that’s been so successful we want more, all we can say is watch this space – and check our interview with the lady herself..
集合创造性的杰作，包括Lady Gaga，Alicia Keys和碧昂丝在内的庞大的粉丝群。生于伦敦，在法国接收设计教育的Georgia Hardinge，设计生涯如日中天。从为最华丽诱人的维多利亚的秘密时尚秀设计走秀作品，到和River Island的合作，一路事业开绿灯，我们想要看到更多的Georgia Hardinge作品，一起看看这次采访。
When did your fashion journey begin?
The journey began with my Mother, she was a stylist and always loved dressing me up, I was a tomboy and hated wearing dresses. Looking back I love to see all the different styles and enjoy looking through the albums of my birthday tea parties wearing the sweetest matching outfits.
Where do you source your inspiration?
My inspiration always relies heavily on architecture as a base, but I also find myself being inspired by so much more including poetry, literature, installation artists and geometric forms. For my ‘Book Collection’ I wanted to recreate a sculpture with novels I’d read in the past and manipulate them into a print that flatters the female silhouette. My muse and someone I’m inspired by every season is Jennifer Connelly. She is very classic and elegant, yet has an experimental edge to her look which I love. A constant muse is one of my best friends, Annabelle Wallis, she is a talented actress and a very inspiring woman with an incredible personal style – the perfect woman! When starting a new collection I like to research as much as possible before creating paper sculptures to find the perfect architectural shape to inspire the print and silhouettes. Artists and artistic movements featured heavily in my upbringing and continue to inspire and influence me daily.
我的灵感总是很强的以来于建筑学中，但是我也被诗词，文学，装置艺术和地理形态所激发。在我的“书合集”中我想要创造一种从我所读的小说文字中获取灵感印出印花制作出女性服装轮廓。我的灵感缪斯一直是Jennifer Connelly。她非常优雅有品位，又有一种我非常爱的冷酷气质。还有一个灵感缪斯是我的朋友，Annabelle Wallis，她是位非常有才华的演员，非常励志的女性人物，拥有令人惊叹的个人生活方式，她简直是一名完美的女人！每当我开始构思新的设计的时候，我会尽可能在创造纸质设计之前找到能给我灵感的建筑形状去启发我的设计印花和框架。艺术家和艺术运动总会在我的作品中体现出来，每日都在激发我灵感也将会一直激发下去。
What advice would you give aspiring designers?
I think industry experience is the best way to truly learn, so completing as many internships as you can whilst at University is so important!
(by: Katrina Judd)
Chelsea became the most important Contemporary Art gallery district in the world with startling speed. Between 1996 and 2007 the number of commercial galleries in Chelsea grew from 12 to at least 231, dwarfing other art districts in the United States and elsewhere and supplanting SoHo, once the most dynamic gallery neighborhood in New York City.
Flora Gill and Alexa Adams launched their label Ohne Titel—German for "untitled"—in 2006. Both Parsons grads and Karl Lagerfeld alums, the two built their women’s ready-to-wear line with an emphasis on crafty techniques (macramé, crochet) and sporty, futuristic-looking silhouettes. Suits are a staple, with both masculine (slouchy, boyfriend trousers) and feminine (fitted, body-conscious blazers) influences. In 2008, Ohne Titel enlisted Cesare Paciotti to produce its first collection of shoes.
Ohne Titel是由2位女设计师Flora Gill和Alexa Adams创建的纽约高级女装品牌。Ohne Titel品牌于2006年9月成立， 2009年1月，Ohne Titel赢得了“Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award”年度女装设计奖。计师Flora Gill和Alexa Adams都自帕森斯设计学院 (Parson's School of Design) 毕业。她们在1999年即成为密友，在2005年，Flora Gill 和 Alexa Adams齐聚卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld) 旗下共同工作，1年后，她们出来共同创建了自己的品牌Ohne Titel。
With their studio in the heart of Chelsea's gallery district, Flora Gill and Alexa Adams like to pop in to see new art shows whenever they get the chance. "It's a delicate balance," says Gill. "You have to keep your idea, your zeitgeist of the brand and kind of expand it and evolve it." Watch our video below to see from 2013 fall/winter runway show to see how two artists' work in particular (Tauba Auerbach's woven tape paintings and Rupert Deese's geometric plywood panels) provided the inspirational foundation for the Ohne Titel collection, moving from spring's soft, wavy shapes to more structured grids and tiny plastic squares that would eventually provide accent and texture to some of their final looks.
由于她们的工作室就在切尔西画廊区，Flora Gill和Alexa Adams一有机会就会去看艺术展。Gill说：“这是一种微妙的平衡”。 “你必须保持你的想法，你品牌的时代精神和种类的扩大和发展。”我们一起从视频中看一下2013秋冬发布会，她们是如何受到了艺术家的启发。尤其是Tauba Auerbach的编织磁带绘画和Rupert Deese几何胶合板面板为本季Ohne Titel提供的灵感基础，把春装系列的柔软、波浪形状变成更为结构化的网格和微小的塑料方块，最终达到了这种着重于纹理的秋冬系列。
灵感来源Inspiration: Rupert Deese, Upper Kern River 5, 2007, oil on plywood and fiberglass, 41 x 71 inches
灵感来源Inspiration: Rupert Deese, Kern River/23 (pale blue), 2012, oil on wood, 23 x 39 1/2 inches
灵感来源Inspiration: Tauba Auerbach, Corner IV, 2011 Woven canvas on wooden stretcher, 152.4 x 114.3 cm
灵感来源Inspiration: Shadow Weave (Interlock, image), 2011, Woven canvas on wooden stretcher, 152.4 x 114.3 cm
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