With fashionista chums like Agyness, Pixie and Alexa, Henry Holland is one of the country’s hottest designers, but his new high-street range means you don’t need to be a supermodel to join his style gang

Henry Holland作为全英最热的的设计师之一,身边更是圈中时尚潮人环绕,像Agyness, Pixie 以及Alexa等大牌名媛都是他的绝对闺蜜。但是他的全新一季的House of Holland系列,你完全不需要是一个超模,就能轻松驾驭他才华绝妙的风格!

Once upon a time, a 15-year-old boy made friends with a cool blonde girl who worked down the local chippie. They moved into a flat together and everything was great, until an annoying Mancunian boy arrived and kipped on their sofa.

曾经,一个15岁的男孩和当地薯条店的工作的一个金发酷女孩成为了朋友。后来他们搬到了一起住,一切完美,直到有天一个曼彻斯特的男孩来到他们家在沙发上开始耍赖。

But they all ended up the best of chums – along with the skinny girlfriend of a photographer and the daughter of someone famous. They were like the cool kids at school everyone wanted to be friends with. So is it any wonder that Debenhams wanted Henry Holland to be part of its designer gang?

但最后他们都变成了密友还有一个摄影师的苗条女友以及某名人的女儿。他们成为了学校里的酷孩子,每个人都想和他们做朋友。所以你们还好奇为什么Debenhams百货想要Henry Holland成为他们的设计师了吗?

 

In Glasgow to launch the new H! collection for the high-street giant, he insists that he’s only too aware of what it must all look like from the outside. “When I met Aggy [that’s supermodel Agyness Deyn, people, keep up], I was 12 years old and she worked in a chip shop,” he says.

在格拉斯哥发布的新Hcollection可谓是真正的高街,他坚持自己的意见是这一切看起来都像是从外向里看的感觉。“当我遇见Aggy(那可是Agyness Deyn的超模,你们别OUT了)的时候,我只有12岁,而她当时在薯条店工作。”他说道。

I didn’t look at her and think, ‘In 15 years’ time she’s going to be a top model, I should make friends with her now.’ I made friends with her because I got a discount at the chip shop.

“我并不是看到她后然觉得15年之后她就会是超模而给她做朋友,而是因为我想以后可以买薯条有折扣。”

I met Pixie [Geldof – come on!] when she was 15 years old and I worked at Smash Hits magazine.

“我又认识了Pixie (Pixie Geldof—也不认识吗?!) ,她那时候15岁,我在Smash Hits 杂志工作。”

I met Alexa [Chung, of course] when I worked there as well, because her boyfriend was a photographer who used to shoot our covers. I didn’t actually meet any of them through fashion. Even Nick Grimshaw, who’s a really good friend, he now has his breakfast show [on Radio 1] and is going to be huge. He used to sleep on my and Aggy’s couch when he first came to London and I hated him. I was like, ‘What are you doing on my sofa? Get out of my house.’

我认识Alexa (Alexa Chung 你肯定认识吧!)的时候我也在那里工作。因为他的男朋友是以前给我们杂志拍摄封面的摄影师。我并不是因为时尚认识的这些人。即便是Nick Grimshaw,他是我真的一位好友, 他现在已经有了自己的早间秀,而且会很火的。他刚来伦敦的时候曾经在我和Aggy的沙发上住,我那时候好恨他的!我当时想:“你在我沙发上干嘛啊!滚出我的房子啊。”

It sounds really contrived and I can see what it must look from the outside – ‘Ooooh, let’s all be famous together’ – but it’s not. We are legitimately friends. We sleep at each other’s places at weekends and eat chips and pizza and do normal things.”

“这一切在外界看,一定很做作:‘喔~让我们一起出名吧’,但是并非如此。我们就是密友。我们会周末在彼此家聊天过夜,吃薯条披萨,做些正经的事儿。”

It might also help if you happen to be a girl. “I have very few male friends in comparison to women friends,” he admits, “but when I do have friends they’re really close. I’ve always hung out with girls. I went to an all-boys school until I was 13, then I was like, ‘Had enough of that.’

如果你是女孩的话,我一定会帮助你的。比起身边的闺蜜女友,我有很少的男性朋友,他承认到。“但是当我有朋友的时候,我们会很亲密,我总是和女孩一起出去。我一直到13岁之前都是去男子学校,然后我就想,‘我受够这些男人了。’”

I’m very lucky to have amazing, inspirational women around me,” he adds, “whether that be people I’m photographed with in the paper, who are immensely stylish and famous for being so, but also my mum, my auntie … my grandmother wore matching trouser suit and blouse until the day she died, and she was amazing. She wouldn’t answer the phone without her lipstick and her earrings on.

“我特别幸运,身边有这么多超赞的,能给我无限灵感的女人们,”他说道,“不仅是哪些我要拍摄的人,她们都沉寂在自己的风格以及名声中,还是我的母亲我的姨妈甚至我的姥姥一直都穿着搭配精致的西裤和衬衫一直到死,她是多么的赞,她不抹口红不戴耳环连电话都不会接的。”

And my mum – once I went out late and got locked out, so had to knock on the door to get her to let me in. She answered the door with her lipstick and her dressing gown on. I was like, ‘What are you doing?’ That was just how they were brought up.”

“还有我母亲,有一次我出去晚归,而且被锁在门外,我必须得敲门回家啊,她居然图上口红穿好靓丽的睡袍来给我开门,我当时就想,妈呀,你是怎么了!?但她们就是在这样的成长环境下长大的。

 

Born in Lancashire, Holland graduated from London College of Printing with a BA in journalism, and worked as fashion editor on teen magazines. He admits now that his career in fashion proper started as a bit of a joke, when he created slogan T-shirts for his mates (example: ‘I’ll Tell You Who’s Boss Kate Moss’ and ‘Get Yer Freak On Giles Deacon’).

出生于LancashireHolland从伦敦大学传媒专业毕业后在青少杂志做时尚编辑。他现在承认自己的时尚事业的开端有点像是在开玩笑,他当时为自己的朋友设计T恤衫上印着“我来告诉你谁是Kate Moss老大”和“开始搞怪吧Giles Deacon”标语。

In 2006 he presented his first bona fide collection in London, and who else would he ask to model it but long-time BFF, Deyn. “We lived together for five years and we are really close – we’re family in a way,” he says. “We’ve been inseparable, we’ve gone everywhere together and I’m very lucky that her career trajectory happened at the same time as mine. She’s one of the world’s biggest supermodels – you wouldn’t go somewhere else would you?

2006年他在伦敦展示了自己的第一场秀,除了他长久的闺蜜Deyn外,谁还能走这场秀的压轴?“我们在一起5年的时间,我们就像家人一样”。他说道。“我们无法分离,我很开心我们的事业一起腾飞,她现在已经是世界上的超级名模之一了”。

 

House of Holland is now a regular on the London Fashion Week schedule – when we speak he’s preparing his 12th runway show – and is celebrated for its hip, London-girl look. Holland’s own wardrobe reflects that sense of street style – leather jacket, jeans and chunky skull ring combine with gleaming neon trainers and that trademark cockatiel quiff; part punk, part poodle.

House of Holland现在是伦敦时装周的常客了,当他讲到自己准备的第12场秀的时候,他自己的衣柜反映了真正的街头风格皮夹克,牛仔裤,骷髅头戒指,霓虹亮色运动裤,以及那鸡尾酒特色标志性印花,一点点朋克,一点点不屑。

His collaborations are legendary – those suspender and alphabet tights for Pretty Polly are now a style staple. He has also worked with Superga, Levi, BlackBerry, Charlotte Olympia, Roxy, Asos and Swarovski.

他曾经的合作也都为传奇那些为Pretty Polly设计的背带和字母紧身衣现在已经成为不朽风格主题。他还曾与SupergaLevi,黑莓,夏洛特奥林匹亚,乐声,Asos和施华洛世奇合作。

Some people might say, then, that the deal with Debenhams, signed off in 2010, was one collaboration too many. People like Miuccia Prada, who famously said she would never collaborate on a diffusion line, sneering that most are merely a “bad copy of what one does for the main brand”. “Those people are few and far between now,” says Holland.

有人也许会说,那么,他和Debenhams百货在2010年签过合同,当时合作的单品太多了。Miuccia Prada就曾经说过,她永远不会和副线合作,冷笑的说“大部分的副线就是主线品牌的差劲模仿”。而Holland却说“这些人现在确实还是存在的啊。”

Karl Lagerfeld has done it – he was the king of elitism. Donatella Versace, Marni, Comme des Garçons. I really like it and, as a designer, I like to translate my aesthetic in lots of different ways – whether that be iPhone covers or a diffusion line or whatever … And I really like seeing a different customer.

“时尚大帝Karl Lagerfeld就这样做,他是精英主义之王。Donatella Versace, Marni, 川久保玲。我真的很喜欢,而且作为设计师,我喜欢把我的审美以不同的方式传达出来不管是一个IPHONE手机壳还是副线产品还是任何其他的东西。我非常喜欢看到不一样的客人。

 

I love heritage fabrics and I’ve used them quite a lot in my mainline collection. I did a big Harris Tweed collection. We had a delay getting our fabric off the island because of the weather and I was thinking, ‘Why didn’t I get it from China.’”

“我喜欢传统的布料,而且我再自己的主线系列有很多应用。我曾经做过哈里斯苏格兰呢系列。当时由于天气原因,我们收到布料的时间晚了很久,我当时想,“我怎么就不直接从中国买呢。”

He’s joking, of course.

他当然是在开玩笑。

All our tartans are from here too. I love tartan – it’s a visual thing. It’s really strong and graphic, which befits our style. There’s also that street culture side of it. I like to think we’re quintessentially British as a label, even though we’re quite eccentric.”

“我们所有的花格呢都是来自这里。我非常喜欢花格呢很视觉化。很有力而且很有几何感,和我们的风格很相近。而且也有一些街头文化在里面。我喜欢认为我们是典型的英伦风,即使我们是有点古怪的。”

 I think more and more being a fan of fashion is as big a thing as being a fan of football. How many young girls and young boys write fashion blogs? It’s what they talk about and what they write about. Their whole thing is saving their money to buy certain things so they can show off at the weekends. It has always been like that but with the internet it has grown and they’ve become a legitimate market.

“我觉得越来越多的时尚粉丝就像足球粉丝一样变得很重要了。有多少年轻的女孩男孩读时尚博客啊?时尚就是他们自己所说的所谈所写的。他们存钱要买一些东西等待着周末好好炫耀一番。一直都是这样的,但现在有了网络,这种情况还在增长,他们也变成了不可忽视的市场。”

 Let’s watch his latest fashion show AW 2013 in London to know him more!

让我们一起去看看他最新的伦敦13秋冬秀,了解更多他的才华!

WHO: Henry Holland

设计师:Henry Holland

WHERE: At the top of a carpark, Berwick Street, London

地点:伦敦 Berwick

FIRST LOOK: Red and pink seventies print suit.

出场模特造型:红、粉色系八十年代印花套装

HAIR: Tousled, slightly dishevelled and parted.

发型:蓬乱,稍微蓬乱而分开。

LIPSTICK, POWDER &PAINT: Metallic and jewelled on the inside of the eye.

口红,粉:金属和珠光宝气的眼妆。

MUSIC: An 80s mix.

音乐:80年代混音。

FRONT ROW: The clan  -Nicola Roberts, Pixie, Grimmy et al – sans Alex Chung though

前排:Nicola Roberts, Pixie, Grimmy et al –Alex Chung居然没到场

FINALE LOOK: Purple to floor gown with applique pills and cocktails, complete with 90s-esque purple shearling.

压轴模特造型:紫色礼服鸡尾酒贴花,完全90年代式的紫色羊皮。

WE LOVE: The 80s cocktail applique prints (and matching earrings!) and the 90s Oasis shearling parkers.

大爱:20世纪80年代的鸡尾酒贴花印刷(及配套耳环!)和90年代绿洲羊皮帕克。

WOULD YOU: Be brave and wear a waxed leopard print cap?

你敢不敢:带那个穿打蜡豹纹帽?

OVERHEARD ‘Oh My god, is that James Argent from TOWIE hiding in the shadows?’

不小心听到:“天啊,那是不是TOWIE里面的James Argent在暗处藏着?”

IT’S A FACT: Henry’s Catwalk Carpet matched his backdrop curtains.

不争事实:HenryT台秀连地毯和后台垂帘都是搭配的色系!

 

Text by Ruth Walker via scotsman.com

Edit/Chinese by Sam Shusen GUO

Nov 26,2013 | Share This | 9,071 Comments | Reply

While the Elizabeth and James girl is typically somewhere in her twenties, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have always approached her as someone wise and sophisticated beyond her years (much like the designers themselves, or their sister Elizabeth, who made the rounds at the Fall presentation).

 

虽然穿Elizabeth and James的女孩是典型的20多岁的样子,但设计师AshleyMary总是尝试把这个女孩的形象加入一些睿智以及超出年龄的精明干练元素(就像是设计师她们本人一样,或者说像她们的姐姐Elizabeth一样)。

The new collection was ripe with covetable, grown-up outerwear, including rounded-shoulder coats cut from cozy faux shearling fleece or watermelon-colored mohair. Maybe the discerning E+J customer originally had her heart set on something similar from The Row or Céline, but scoring one of these utterly cool toppers at E+J's more attainable, contemporary price point is by no means a concession.

2013秋冬新的一季,是成熟干练的,不露风情的成熟魅力外套,其中包括舒适的仿羊皮羊毛或西瓜色马海毛圆肩裁剪大衣,也许挑剔的Elizabeth and James客人原本已经对The Row或者Céline 类似的款式心有所属,但是一旦她们看到任何一件Elizabeth and James本季酷到极致的上装,还有那决不让步的价格优势,她们自然心动万分。

It's more like a win. Other winning items here included a black bomber jacket featuring slick patent sleeves, and a pair of menswear-y, relaxed plaid trousers. This season, Elizabeth and James debuted its much-anticipated line of handbags, which included navy or leopard-print hair-cow slings as well as functional leather shoppers that will undoubtedly build up a following of their own.

这就像是一场胜利之战。还有其他的一些单品完胜,包括那件配光滑漆皮袖的黑色短夹克专,两件男士中性套装,还有那宽松的格子长裤。本季,E+J还推出其备受期待的手袋系列,其中有海军或豹纹小牛毛流苏元素,以及非常实用的皮质购物袋,无疑将全面打造一个专属自己的风格。

Text By Brittany Adams via style.com

Photos: smokeandmirrorsblog.com

Chinese/Editing By Sam Shusen Guo

Nov 25,2013 | Share This | 347 Comments | Reply

 

At the risk of speculation, we'd argue that when most think of Italian fashion it is with storied high-end brands with high price points to match in mind. Getting a dose of Milanese style barely registered in the contemporary market in the way that a girl can get a hit of Paris fashion from Maje or Sandro. One savvy Italian saw a hole in the market and filled it with MSGM. Launched by former DJ Massimo Giorgetti in 2009, the brand specialized in brights, digital patterns and innovative, interesting shapes. It's young, fun, modern and therefore beloved by the fashion blogging set. Read on for insights from the effervescent Giorgetti on his love of music, color and Alexa Chung.

当大多数人认为的意大利时装都是有名的高端品牌拥有太昂贵的价格,女孩子们想要获得一点米兰风,在现在的市面上实在没有从MajeSandro来点巴黎风更快一些。一个精明的意大利人发现了这个市场空缺,于是填入了MSGM2009年,曾为DJ Massimo Giorgetti推出的品牌以其鲜亮的电子印花和创新、有趣的廓型令人耳目一新。年轻,有趣,现代,因此深受时尚博主的喜爱。一起阅读充满激情的Giorgetti对音乐,色彩和Alexa Chung的挚爱把。

Harper's Bazaar: Your brand has grown quite quickly. Why do you think consumers and editors drawn to MSGM, what space do you think it filled in the market?

你的品牌成长的很快,你认为为何顾客和编辑都为MSGM痴迷,它在市场上属于那个层次?

Massimo Giorgetti: MSGM has grown this quickly because I think it anticipated trends and offered something new. Presenting a collection in 2009 with psychedelic prints done by computer and in fluorescent colors was the secret to MSGM's immediate success. Also, right from the beginning we wanted to create a contemporary collection — which wasn't something very common in Italy at the time — and get the message out immediately, considering the impact that social networks were having. I think the market was waiting for a product like ours; many young people were already getting ideas more from the Internet than from the pages of magazines. MSGM is really created for a young public that adores fashion but isn't a slave to designer labels, a public that likes to dare and likes to be noticed.

MSGM发展很快因为我觉得它可以预知流行趋势并且带来新意。2009年电脑迷幻印花系列和花式色彩成为MSGM获得成功的最大秘密武器。同时,从一开始我们就要创造出一种很现代的系列不是当时在意大利很常见的一些东西,然后迅速把信息传达出去,考虑到了社交媒体的巨大力量。我想整个市场都在期待着像我们这样的一个品牌的诞生。很多年轻人都开始更多的从网络上而不是时尚杂志上获取信息。MSGM真正吸引了一个年轻的热爱时尚但不是商标奴隶的公众群体,这个群体喜爱大胆行事,喜欢被关注到。

HB: Tell me about your love of music, what bands inspire you? Who is on your iPod now?

谈谈您对音乐的热爱?什么激发了您?现在您IPod里是谁的音乐?

MG: Up to 5 years ago I was a DJ, it was more of a hobby than a job but music is everything to me! I can't wake up in the morning without loud music at home. It gives me energy, positivity and it makes my fears and worries disappear. Music gives me courage. In the first collection for Spring/Summer 2010 there was the 'Electrocardiogram Acid Multicolor' print which was created while listening to 'In this Home on Ice’'by Clap Your Hands Say Yeah. Then there was MGMT, The Strokes (I’m mad about Julian Casablancas) and the Arctic Monkeys (I adore Alex Turner). Now I listen to the Fun a lot and the Of Monster and Men.

五年前我是一名DJ 更多的算是一种爱好而不是工作,但是音乐对我来说就是生命。早晨没有吵闹的音乐我是无法醒来的。它给了我能量和动力,它让我的战胜恐惧和忧虑。音乐给我了勇气。在设计第一季2010春夏系列出现了一种“心电图酸性彩色印花”,当时我是听着Clap Your Hands Say Yeah的“In this home on ice”,然后就是MGMTThe Strokes的“I’m mad about Julian Casablancas”,还有Arctic Monkeys 的“I adore Alex Turner”。现在我最常听的是The FUN, 还有Of Monster and Men的音乐。

 

HB: Who do you think of as the MSGM girl?

您认为穿MSGM的女孩是什么样子的?

MG: The MSGM girl is young and loves fashion with a capital F. She's very fashionable without being a fashion victim. She's extremely informed and in touch with everything. She's a girl that is both courageous and irreverent — a bit like the MSGM collection itself.

MSGM女孩年轻,爱时尚(黑体字加粗时尚!),她很时尚但是又不会做时尚的奴隶。她极其关注新鲜事物。她非常勇敢又有点叛逆有点像MSGM系列的感觉。

 

HB: What initially made you want to launch your own brand?

最初是什么原因让你想要创立自己的品牌?

MG: It took two trusted friends and a loved one, all three of them very close to me, to convince me I was ready to take on this adventure. We were initially all four going to be associates. Then we were down to two. And immediately afterwards I was on my own.

当时是有两个我特别信赖的朋友,和一个我的爱人,他们三个人都和我非常要好,他们说服了我去冒这次险。一开始是我们四个人的事业,后来只剩下了两个人。随即就全靠我自己了。

HB: What does MSGM mean?

MSGM什么意思?

MG: MSGM are the initials of these three people and myself. It also corresponds to a kind of play on my name and surname. Moreover when the MSGM name was being thought up, I was always listening to the 'Oracular Spectacular' album by MGMT. My brand couldn't have been called anything else.

MSGM是这三个人和我的名字的第一个字母。它也正好和我的姓里含有的字母很符合。还有就是MSGM的名字被提出时,我当时总在听MGMTOracular Spectacular这张专辑。我的品牌不能再有别的更好的名字了。

 

HB: How important do you think street style representation is to a brand right now?

你认为街头风对一个品牌的表达?

MG: I think it's fundamental. Already it's become the norm to look at photos of outfits worn by young people on the street, bloggers, journalists and buyers at the shows. Viewers naturally want to be able to dress in the same way.

我想这是基础。这已经是街头年轻人、博主、记者和时装周买手们的穿着准则。旁观者一定也想穿成相同的风格。

 

HB: Are there any celebrities on your radar that you would love to see in your clothes?

你有没有特别希望某位明星穿您的衣服?

MG: There is one in particular that I adore… Alexa Chung. Also I'm very interested in dressing stylists, fashion editors and bloggers. I consider myself very lucky though because many of them are already fans of MSGM.

有一个我超级超级爱……Alexa Chung。同时我对造型师,时装编辑以及博主很感兴趣。我觉得自己很幸运因为这些人中已经有很多MSGM的粉丝了!

 

HB: What do you do when you're not working?

您不工作的时候都在干什么?

MG: I go to the gym, I swim and I jog. Then I watch loads of TV series in streaming, I go to the cinema a lot and read (unfortunately not enough…). I like cooking as well and organizing dinners with friends.

我会去健身房,游泳和慢跑。然后我在线看很多电视剧,我经常去电影院,我也读书(就是读的不太多……)我也很喜欢做饭,组织和朋友一起出去聚餐。

 

HB: Favorite vacation spot?

您最爱的假期圣地是哪里?

MG: On the sea, with a sailing boat or a catamaran. This summer I spent two weeks in and around the Eolie Islands on a catamaran. The islands are unforgettable.

海上,有帆船或者一个双体船。这个夏天我再Eolie群岛周围的一个双体船上度过了两周的时间。这些岛屿真是太令人难忘了。

 

HB: Do you think of MSGM as an innately Italian brand? Why or why not?

您认为MSGM是一个与生俱来的意大利品牌吗?为什么?

MG: Yes, MSGM is an emerging Italian brand. Italian because it's based in Milan and because it's completely Made in Italy. But at the same time I like to think of it as being an international brand because it's already selling in 300 stores worldwide!

是的,MSGM是一个新锐的意大利品牌。它基地在米兰因为所有产品都是意大利制造。但同时我也会把他想成是世界的品牌因为我们在全球有300多家店铺有售了!

 

 

Text By Kerry Pieri

Photo via http://mycouturemoda.blogspot.com

Via: Bazaar http://www.harpersbazaar.com/

Chinese text/Image Editing: Sam Shusen Guo

 

 

Nov 22,2013 | Share This | 15,250 Comments | Reply

Golnaz Ashtiani’s achieved her ticket to success in 2011 when she won the TFI Best New Labels competition. The designer, who studied at the London College of Fashion, launched  the ASHTIANI fashion line and has presented five seasons in a row at the World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto. The label’s Fall/Winter collection combines deep fall colors with neutrals and pops of bright color and printed fabrics. The line experiments heavily with textures, mixing materials like mohair, leather, and sheer panels. Ashtiani gives classic style and tailoring a modern twist with geometric and unconventional shapes in the patterns and construction of the pieces. Ashtiani as one of the best selling ALTER brands, shares with Real Style her fall fashion advice and her favorite trends.

Golnaz Ashtiani2011年赢得了TF1最佳新晋品牌大奖后,同时也获得了通往成功的金钥匙。设计师曾在伦敦时尚学院深造,一连设计了5季完整作品都在多伦多世界万事达时装周展览。该品牌秋冬系列融合了深色和中和色调,也有跳跃的颜色和印花面料。此系列极具实验性的探索了混合材料,如马海毛,皮革,和干净利落的层次拼接。Ashtiani经典的款式和剪裁与现代风味的几何形状,非常规的模型组成了结构性很强的作品。日前,该ALTER精选品牌接收了Real Style博客的专访。

  

Real Style: What are your three fall essential must-haves for women this spring and why?

您今年设计的三个女人必备的秋冬元素是什么?为什么?

  

Golnaz Ashtiani: The show piece Cape Coat: If there is one thing you need this Fall is a stylish Cape that immediately transforms your style. You throw it over anything match it with a long leather boots and you have got the look.

惊艳之作就在那个披风大衣上:如果你秋冬只需要一件潮流穿着,那一定是一件披风大衣会瞬间提升你的风格。你可以随便搭配到身上,配上一双靴子你就造型完美惊艳了。

  

  

Flared hem skirts and dresses: feminine, fun and easy to wear. They are great for the holiday season.

荷叶下摆礼服裙:女性化,好玩,不易磨损。节日时去穿这些一定是最佳选择。

Key pieces with multi fabric combinations and textures are definitely top of the list this fall. I’m really in love with the color palettes as well; rich tones like aubergine, mustard, and navy are very striking and can make some fabulous dramatic impact in your wardrobe.

关键的一些衣服,都是多面料组合和纹理肯定是这个秋天的首选。我真的爱调色板一般丰富的色调,如茄紫,芥菜色,和海军色是非常惊人的,这些颜色可以使你的衣柜神话般的提升。

RS: What are your favourite trends this season?

本季您最爱的流行趋势是什么?

GA: I love the mixing of unexpected fabrics that I’ve seen utilized in the fashion world lately. It’s a really creative way of exploring and pushing the boundaries of the way we are used to using textiles, giving depth and dimension to the cleaner lines were seeing right now.

我爱意想不到的面料,我已经看到最近在时尚界的利用混合。这是一个真正创造性地探索和推进的方式,我们习惯于用纺织品的界限,让我们现在看到的清晰的深度和广度。

RS: What are your favourite fall accessories?

您最爱的秋冬配饰是什么?

GA: Colourful fur clutches are at the top of my list for fall accessories for Fall/Winter 2013.  In fact, I’m seeing fur being used in a range of accessories this season; it’s luxurious and adds so much texture. Accessories are an easy way to update and add versatility to your wardrobe if you’re not looking to dive head first into a trend, especially if it’s something as pricey as fur.

色彩缤纷的皮草手包,绝对是我2013/冬秋季配饰首选。事实上,我看到的皮草被用在一系列的配件上,本赛季,它的豪华,增加了这么多的质地。配饰是一个简单的方法来为你的衣柜提升亮点,一定要精挑细选,您肯定不会一头潜入流行趋势中,尤其是昂贵的皮草配饰。

RS: What is your top trick for making a woman look slimmer?

您让女性看起来更苗条的秘密是什么?

GA: Wearing structured one piece dresses is a flattering way to achieve a slimmer silhouette. I think it’s also about knowing your body shape helps in finding a right outfit that would suit you.

穿一件结构性很强的礼服是一个讨人喜欢的方式来实现一个苗条的轮廓。我认为了解你自己的身材,有助于找到合适的衣服。

RS: If women could only buy one piece from your collection this fall, what would it be and why?

如果一个女人只在您本季选择一件衣服,那会是哪一件?为什么?

GA: That’s a difficult question! But I guess I’d have to go with the long-sleeved knit dress from our Fall collection. It’s got a great flared hem, and mixes the knit with hand-made silk and faux Persian lamb velvet inserts. The silhouette skims the body and the lines are very flattering. Plus, the fabrics and are just so fun and luxurious!

这是一个很难回答的问题!不过,我猜我不得不说这季的长袖针织连衣裙。它有一个巨大的喇叭形下摆和混合编织手工制作的丝绸和人造的波斯羔羊绒。轮廓和线条都非常讨人喜欢。另外,面料真的很有趣也非常豪华!

RS: Layering is always a huge trend for fall. What are your do’s and don’ts for layering?

追求层次感是今秋的大潮流,您在层次感方面做了哪些,舍弃了哪些?

GA: I feel like layering can go wrong when people try to layer all in one color or in mass. Heavy layering isn’t really in trend anymore, it should be used as more of a way to ‘peek-a-boo’ mixing sheer light weight fabrics with heavy one, this would create a balance in layering. I find that many people tend to over accessorize things, or swath themselves in draped fabrics that can look dowdy. Using tailored, clean lines while layering can give a more flattering effect that is more on-trend with the minimalism we’re seeing now.

我觉得层次这个东西,在人们试图一层一种颜色或质量的时候会犯错。重层次已经不再是趋势了,它应该被用来作为PEEK-A-BOO混合重一透明轻质面料的方式,这将创造一个平衡的分层。我发现,很多人往往过度搭配,或为自己大片披上织物反而显得寒酸。使用量身定制,简洁的线条,同时的分层可以给一个更漂亮的效果与极简主义,这种趋势才是我们现在更多看到的。

   

RS: What is on your holiday wish list?

您的假期梦想清单是什么?

GA: Getting a new hand-made mannequin for the studio.

为自己的工作室买一个新的手工制作的人体模型。

   

 

 

 

Nov 21,2013 | Share This | 9,683 Comments | Reply

VIVETTA was founded in 2008 by Vivi Ponti, its designer. Launched its first collection at the fresh lounge “who’s next” competition as the prestigious winner, it has rapidly emerge as one of the most sought after brands by young designers in Italy. VIVETTA designs are purely made in Italy both in material and production and now are stored in more than 24 multi-brands boutiques all over the world.

米兰品牌Vivetta2008Vivi Ponti创立,她同时也是该品牌的设计师。

Also known as Vivì, Vivetta Ponti is the brilliant young designer behind the fresh new fashion brand Vivetta worn by celebrities such as Alexa Chung and Peaches Geldof. Living and working between Milan and her hometown of Assisi in the hills of Umbria, Vivetta launched her eponymous Made in Italy line after winning the Parisian Fresh Lounge prize.

Vivi原名是Vivetta Ponti, 是一名非常有才华的年轻设计师,这个年轻新锐的时尚品牌Vivetta已经获得了像Alexa ChungPeaches Geldof这样名人的喜爱。

 

Your fashion is very playful, colourful, cute and fun. How much of your own personality is in your work?

您的作品非常的有意思,颜色丰富,可爱又有创意。您如何融入了自己的个性呢?

Everything I like is reflected in my work but sometimes I discover I design something that I really like but I didn´t think to design or wear.

我把我喜欢的一切都融入了我的作品中,当我发现我可以设计自己真正喜欢的东西的时候,我并不去思考去故意设计或者如何去穿。

You are also very influenced by the Swinging Sixties -what is the fascination for you of that time?

您被摇摆的六十年代影响深刻,您对此是怎么想的?

From this decade I like mostly colors, shapes and the gamine simple style like Twiggy

我喜欢那个年代的颜色,形状和纤细简单的风格。

In an interview you once said that you find your inspiration in anything. “It can be from working or reading a book or watching a film or drinking a glass of red wine.” What are you reading at the moment and what was a great movie you have seen lately?

您曾说您的灵感可以来自任何地方。可以是您的工作或者一本书或者一部电影或者一杯红酒。您最近在读什么书,看什么电影?

I´m just reading “The Third Lie” by Agota Kristof. I´ve just seen Wes Anderson latest movie: Moonrise kingdom and I loved it as all movies by him

我刚读了Agota Kristof的《The Third Lie》。我也刚看了Wes Anderson的最新的一部电影《Moonrise kingdom》我喜欢他导演的所有电影。

You have worked for Roberto Cavalli for some time as assistant designer. What was the hardest part there and what the best part? And what have you gained from your time there?

您之前在Roberto Cavalli任职为助理设计师,其间最难以及最好的部分是什么? 您在这段时间的收获是什么?

I learned lot of things – all I know about doing a collection. I had a great time there, it was team work and we were all very close, it was like a big family. The best part was working on the catwalk collection. It was the most creative part and we did lots of handmade things ,very big embroideries and special items. We could do everything. The hardest part was the days before the show where we worked everyday till night, sleeping very few hours each night and working 7 days on 7.

我学习了很多东西我最了解的就是设计一个系列。我非常享受在那里工作的时光,当时都是团队工作,我们很团结,想一个大家庭。我最喜欢的部分是猫步系列的制作,当时需要非常多的创意而且需要很多手工的刺绣,我们可以做任何的东西。最难的部分是我们在服装秀之前每天工作到晚上,每天晚上睡眠很少,七天连续7点就开始工作了。

To decide to do your own label – the best decision you ever took in your life?

决定做自己的品牌,是您人生最好的选择?

From when I started working I´ve always known I would be having my own label, so yes, it´s the best decision of my life to have started it. I deeply love Vivetta and I´m working hard on it to let it grow.

我一开始工作就一直想创办自己的品牌,所以是的,我最好的决定就是自己真的创办了自己的品牌。我深爱着Vivetta这个品牌,我非常努力的工作去让这个品牌成长。

What is the best piece of advice you can give you young designers?

您给新锐设计师的最好的建议是什么?

I don´t know. It’s difficult. To go well it needs lot of important things all together

我也不知道,这个很难。发展好,需要很多部分都运作良好。

I heard Milan can be a very rough place to live in – workwise and also in general – is that true?

我听说在米兰很难以生存,不知道说的是工作方面还是整体上讲?是真的吗?

Yes it’s true, mostly within the work field

是的,确实如此,大部分说的是工作层面上。

What makes you happy?

什么让你快乐?

I’m super happy when I have good news from Vivetta or something good happens for the collection! I am also happy when I have time to relax and do what I like. If i have only a day off to work I love to stay home in bed with all my cats and whatch movies all day long. If I have more than a day I like to go out and do research on thrift, book stores etc.

每当我听到关于Vivetta的好消息和一些好的事情发生在我的设计系列上的时候!每当我有时间去放松,做自己喜欢做的事情的时候我也很快乐。如果我可以有一天休息,我愿意呆在家里和我的猫咪们一起看一整天的电影。如果我有多于一天的休息时间我愿意去逛逛二手店和书店之类的。

Last time you cried?

您上一次哭是什么时候?

Today for a cat I miss, I saw his pics and I printed one to put on a frame and later on the wall.

今天,因为我想念一直猫咪,我看到了他的照片然后打印出来装裱在框里挂到了墙上。

The most beautiful thing in life is?

您生命中最好的事情是什么、

To do what you like so you are happy

做自己喜欢做的事情让自己很快乐。

 


Nov 20,2013 | Share This | 580 Comments | Reply

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