澳洲设计师品牌Sass & Bide: 为自己而时尚Dress for yourself and not for anyone else

 

It’s no secret that I have an affection for all things Australian; the guys, the accent, the free-spirited attitude, and of course the fashion. So when I heard that Aussie label Sass & Bide was returning to New York Fashion Week after a six season hiatus, I was dying to get the scoop on their latest collection.

我对一切澳大利亚的东西毫无抗拒力这已经是个公开的秘密:那里的壮男,那里的口音,那里的自由精神态度,当然还有那里的时尚。所以当我听到澳洲品牌Sass&Bide经过6季的间隙后再次回归纽约时装周的时候,我下定决心一定要去打探一下他们最新一季的系列设计。

Designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton have never gone the tradition route, whether in their careers (they are a former accountant and advertising art director, respectively) or in their design aesthetic. So I was interested to see what the duo had in store this season—surely something cool and unexpected, if The Classic Car Club venue was any indicator. I caught up with Clarke and Middleton backstage amidst the pre-show craziness to talk spring inspiration, the importance of styling, and trading closets with Virginia Bates. Keep reading for the full interview and scroll through the slideshow above to check out our favorite looks from the Spring 14 collection.

设计师Sareh-Jane Clarke 以及 Heidi Middleton从来就不按章出牌,不管是她们自己的职业生涯(她们以前是分别是会计和广告艺术指导),还是她们的设计审美。所以我对这一对设计二人组本季的设计非常的感兴趣,我想一定是一些非常酷或者令人无法预料的惊喜。我在后台终于有幸围追堵截到了两位设计师,和她们一起谈一谈这一季的灵感,造型的重要性以及她们和Virginia Bates的壁橱交易。继续阅读下面的全部采访内容及他们的2014春季系列设计吧。

Lifestyle Mirror: Why was it important for you to come back to New York to show again?

为什么再次来到纽约展示自己的品牌对您来说很重要?

Sarah-Jane Clarke: We’ve been waiting for the perfect excuse to come back to New York because we love New York. The girls here really love the brand so we thought now that we’re opening our first international flagship on Broome Street in November it makes sense to really engage with our girls here.

我们一直都在等待着最完美的借口重返纽约,因为我们对这里如此之爱。这里的女孩真的很喜欢我们的品牌,所以我们现在想11月份在Broom大街开业我们第一家国际旗舰店,让这些喜欢我们品牌的女孩真正的感受我们的品牌审美。

 

LM: Tell me a little bit about the inspiration for this collection.

我们谈谈这次系列设计的灵感来源吧?

Heidi Middleton: The big vision for the collection was for it not to be able to be harnessed or put in a box or defined. It was a tale of many worlds. It was really inspired by going into the archives of a lot of the trips where Sarah-Jane and I have collected inspiration from many different cultures and places and I wanted to channel that into a modern and polished way. I wanted it to be indefinable, that was the aim. And it was actually the biggest challenge through the process was to make sure it couldn’t be harnessed or it couldn’t be put to a period of time or a certain genre or culture. So I feel happy that we’ve been able to meet that vision. It’s really a sophisticated coming together of elements.

这次设计的初衷就是想让这个系列不能被局限在任一个空间里去评判。这是方方面面的各种品味组合。整个系列受到了我和Sareh-Jane在很多地方旅行时收集的不同文化元素的影响,我想以一种现代的被雕琢后的方法传递出来。我想让这个系列无法被定义,这就是我的目标。而其实这正是整个设计过程中的最大挑战,还有就是我们无法将它放入一个固定的文化或者类别之中。所以我很开心我实现了当初的摄像。最后的结果真的是一种多种元素的混合体。

 

LM: Do you have a favorite piece from the collection?

这个系列中有没有你最爱的一件?

HM: We have a few favorites, probably the gallery playsuit, a short-suit in chalk.

我们有很多最爱,也许是那件夺人眼球的粉笔灰色短西装。

SJC: And my favorite piece, I’m loving all of the layered skirts over the pants.

我的最爱是那件有裙层的裤装。

 

LM: How important is the styling to your collections?

这季设计中的造型很重要吗?

HM: We’ve had so much attention for our styling that we’ve started to weave that into the actual designs themselves. So the whole thing is pre-styled so can run and the look is already done. We wanted to be able to make it accessible to people who don’t have that natural styling ability.

我们这次在造型上下了很多功夫,我们要在设计的时候就已经开始考虑了。所以整体的造型在上台前都很早计划好了。我们想要让那些没有自然随意造型能力的人也能撑得起我们的设计。

SJC: I think it really just brings the collection together, you can see the vision of how we’d like it to be worn.

我觉得就是要把整体设计带到一起,你可以看到我们想要让我们的设计如何整体搭配的感觉。

 

LM: Who is the woman you’re designing for?

您在为什么样的女人设计?

HM: It’s interesting, we had a situation last week where one of the staff her 90-year-old grandmother was wearing this piece in the most incredible way and then in the same week her 10-year-old sister had been bought a piece by the family and she was wearing it to a party and we were so inspired by the way they wore it. And for us that epitomizes the Sass & Bide girl, we don’t like her to be an age demographic or a certain type of girl, we just love that it’s a freedom of expression and you can wear the pieces in so many different ways. It’s really about a mindset and a way of being rather than a certain girl. But she’s definitely free-spirited.

这很有趣,我们上周有一个这样的情况,我们的员工之一,她90岁的奶奶穿了一件我们设计,风格非常绝妙,而同一周,她10岁的妹妹也穿了一件我们的设计去参加一个派对,我们因为她们的穿法感到灵感无限。所以对于我们来说,想要概括一下Sass&Bide的女孩,我们不想用一个固定的年龄段或者某一类的女孩来说,我们就喜欢这种自由方式的表达,你可以凭你想要的任何方式去穿它。这真的和人的思维模式有关系,而不是和某一类型的女孩有关系。但是她一定会是思想自由的。

 

LM: What’s the best piece of fashion advice you’ve received?

您收到最佳的时尚建议是什么?

HM: Probably to dress for yourself and not for anyone else.

也许是,穿着只为自己而不是为别人。

 

LM: If you could trade closets with anyone who would it be?

如果你想和一个人换一下自己的私人衣橱,她会是谁呢?

HM: SJ!

当然是Sareh-Jane

SJC: I wouldn’t mind getting into Virginia’s in London—the vintage collector. [Virginia Bates]

我也不会介意去伦敦Virginia家!她可是一位古董时尚收藏者!(Virginia Bates)

 

By Megan Hayes Via www.lifestylemirror.com

Translate/Edit by Sam Shusen GUO

Jan 02,2014 | Share This | 87 Comments | Reply

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