Jonathan Saunders 早春2014: 给你真正的早春色彩 A real Resort collection


"Things that I love," said Jonathan Saunders. "That's what Resort should be." Maybe that's why his Fall collection stumbled. He described its palette as "earthy," but Saunders is acid, not earth. Resort took him right back to Candyland. Colors and prints popped with the synthetic sizzle that he does so well.
“我所爱的事物,”Jonathan Saunders这样说道。“就应该是我这一季早春所代表的。”这就是为什么他的秋冬系列跌跌撞撞。他当时把自己的秋冬系列描述为“朴实”,可是Saunders的设计就不是朴实的,而是亮丽抢镜的。早春系列终于把他带回了糖果世界,色彩和印花完美的结合在一起,他是如此的擅长。

Saunders cited the PoMo slickness of the Milanese design group Memphis in the 1980s and the artful irony of Pet Shop Boys album sleeves in the early nineties as reference points. One particular circular "Bubble Wrap" print was directly inspired by PSB's plastic wrap for their 1993 release, Very. The effect was 3-D, duplicated more subtly in pieces cut from a beautiful/ugly blend of silk and Lurex. It felt like a sticky organza, but it floated like magic.



The presence of Memphis was strongest in the artificial color scheme. Saunders likes a clash. Pistachio and chartreuse was his favorite. In fact, shades of green clashing with everything was a leitmotif, all the way to a printed chiffon evening gown that shaded together leaf green and black. It was borderline lurid, but that is quintessential Saunders. It energizes him, and one reason this collection worked so well is that he'd found the fabrics to match. The key was body-conscious bonding: double-face jerseys heat-pressed with big, blowsy tulips, silks, and cottons backed with jersey, and sheaths with raw-edged hems bonded so that they, too, had a peculiar dimensionality. "I've been working on that for a year," Saunders said.
孟菲斯元素的引用就在于人工配色的独特方案。Saunders喜欢撞色。开心果色和黄绿色是他的最爱。事实上,层层绿色是冲破所有色调的主旋律,尤其是那件印花伴有绿色和黑色的雪纺长裙。这种撞色搭配几乎到了耸人听闻的边缘,但这就是Saunders的典型风格。正是这种审美在激励着他,这一系列最终行之有效的原因之一就是,他发现了和他设计相匹配的面料。关键之处在于能够意识到人体曲线的细节:双面熨烫过的球衣面料配上大大的盛开郁金香印花,又用纯棉嵌入,加上鞘中与原边的折边粘合,让它们有一个特殊的维度。“我花了一年的时间去探索这种技巧。”Saunders 说道。

"A real Resort collection," he called it, and he wasn't wrong. These clothes will sing in the sunshine—the harder the glare, the better.



Text By Tim Blanks via

Translation by Sam Shusen GUO

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