采访:GROUND ZERO设计师Philip CHU :GROUND ZERO’S PHILIP CHU TALKS TO FILEP MOTWARY

 

GROUND-ZERO was launched by the designer duo, brothers Eri and Philip Chu back in  2008, with current focus in fashion.

GROUND-ZERO由设计师EriPhilip Chu兄弟两人2008年共同创立,专注当下时尚界最流行的趋势。

The brand's name, is a literal translation of the duo’s thoughts — everything has to start from zero, where possibilities of paths are unlimited and anything is possible, all one needs to do is to take a leap. “Zero could be everything.” I had a brief converation with Philip this morning. Here's what he told me.

品牌的名字,是两位设计师的想法直译:一切从零开始,任何道路的可能性都是没有局限的,一切皆有可能,需要做的就是要敢于飞跃。“零可以是任何事物。”我今天早晨和Philip聊了会天,他就这样告诉我的。

 

FM: So why did you choose fashion to begin with?

为什么选择时尚行业?

PhilipChu: Initially I wanted to do music, wanted to start a company based on multi media involving all aspects of creativity… gradually the designs developed into T-shirts, and led us into fashion.

最初我想做的是音乐,我想创办一个多媒体的公司,传播各种创意慢慢的,设计演变成了T恤,最后把我们带入了时尚领域。

 

FM: Now that you mention this detail, music is indeed reflected in your clothes Somehow.

现在您提到了这些细节,音乐确实在你的设计中起了很大的影响。

PC: Yes definitely, we insist on making our own music for the shows. For SS13 show soundtrack, we were lucky to have collaborated with Chan Fai Young, famous Hong Kong composer.

当然,我们坚持为自己的秀做自己的音乐。对于我们2013春夏的背景音乐,我们很幸运和香港作曲家陈辉阳一起创作。

 

FM: This is amazing so, you launched Ground Zero with your brother. How do you separate your roles in the brand?

这真的很棒,你和自己的兄弟一起创办了Ground Zero, 您在品牌上如何划分角色?

PC: Eri creates the graphics, the prints whereas I'm more involved with art direction and media.

Eri创作图画设计以及印花,而我是艺术指导和媒体方面。

 

FM: How difficult it was for you to launch Ground Zero in such a difficult period?

在现在的经济大气候下,您创办GROUND ZERO一定遇到了很多困难吧?

PC: Looking back now, it was a very stressful time. We didn't realize how hard it actually was, as it all happened so fast and we enjoyed the whole process. There were often times where for example we had to budget so only one of us go to Paris for trade fairs etc.

现在回顾一下,真的很有压力。我们当时没有意识到到底有多么的困难,因为一切发展的如此之快,而我们也如此的享受这个过程。有时候也会因为预算问题我们两个人只能有一个人去巴黎参加展览等等。

 

FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last. How does really longevity mean in this business?

对于设计师而言想要长红,最终要的是什么?在这个行业中,长红意味着什么?

PC: Determination. You have to believe you can do it. Often you get mixed feedback, you have to focus on the good and carry on.

决心。你必须相信你可以做到。通常情况下你会得到各种各样的反馈,但是你必须要筛选出来那些好的反馈,继续下去。

 

FM: What is the most important thing you always carry or follow when working?

您工作的时候随身携带的最重要的物品是什么?

PC: My iPhone

我的IPHONE

 

FM: Why did you choose to work with women and not men?

为何选择女装?

PC: Because we like women. Womenswear offers more to play with, regarding silhouettes, color, detailing etc. We are very graphic based, women feel more comfortable to wear print more than men.

因为我们喜欢女人。女装可以更好的去把玩,不管是廓型,颜色还是细节等等。我们非常的注重印花,女性穿印花会比男性更舒服一点吧。

 

FM: How different are women compared to men in your opinion?

在你眼中男人和女人有多大的不同?

PC: Relating to clothes?

您是问关于衣服方面吗?

 

FM: In general and in clothes in particular.

总体来讲,主要从衣服上来讲。

PC: Within fashion, women have more choices. They are demanding every season, looking for something new all the time. However men look for comfort and style, minimal and classic silhouettes. In general, women are more emotional and allow themselves to express more. Whereas men are more contained.

在时尚上,女人有更多的选择。她们每一季都有很多需求,一直在寻找新的东西。而男人更倾向寻找舒适度和风格,精简以及经典的廓型。整体上讲,女人更加的情绪化,这样她们会想要表达更多的东西,而男人会保守一点。

 

FM: How did you form the Ground Zero, heroine/the woman you dress?

您是如何装扮自己的Ground Zero女英雄造型的?

PC: We believe our heroine, in the future is a strong yet gentle character. Reflecting in our collections, we always put two extremes together. e.g. mechanical femininity in AW13

我们相信我们的女英雄,在未来会是一种有力的但是又温柔的性格。在我们的系列中,我们总是会把两种极端放在一起。比如2013秋冬系列机械感的女人味。

 

FM: How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one? Is this the moment of great creativity?

您认为经济危机如何影响到了时尚?是否会对时尚有影响?现在是急需创造力的时段吗?

PC: Financial crisis definitely affects fashion like everything else. it's an inevitable cycle, we have to realize that it is happening and work around it rather than let it affect your designs.

经济危机肯定会影响时尚就像影响其他事物一样。这是一个无可避免的圈,我们必须意识到这个的发生,为之想办法,而不是让这个影响到你的设计。

 

FM: What is your new collection about, the inspiration lets say.

你的新系列灵感来自哪里?

PC: In my mind, I imagine a time machine. A strong young woman walks out in armor, establishing her presence and identity..

在我头脑中,我想象时间就是一个机器,一个坚强的年轻女子从镜子里走出来,营造自己的存在和个性。

 

FM: How did you start designing it, what was your research about?

你是如何开始设计的呢?做了哪些研究?

PC: We watched a lot of cartoons such as God Mars, researched into space images, galaxies..

我看了很多卡通片,比如《雷霆王》,做了很多关于太空图片和银河系的研究。

 

FM: What is so fascinating about the unknown?

关于未知,就真的那么迷人吗?

PC: The unknown can be anything. There are no restrictions in creating within the unknown. It's intriguing.

未知就意味着任何事情皆有可能。在未知的条件下创造就没有任何束缚。这很有吸引力啊。

 

FM: Where is your collection available?

您的系列在哪里可以买到?

PC: Shanghai ALTER Concept Store, Restir in Tokyo, Tom Greyhounds in Seoul, etc

上海ALTER,东京Restir, 首尔的Tom Greyhounds等等。

 

Dec 27,2013 | Share This | 260 Comments | Reply

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