Category Archives: 2013 AW

Kzeniya was born and raised in Ukraine and has studied at St.Martin's School of Design and after one year in Paris, lives in London now. She exclusively produces in Italy and collaborates with highly-selected artisans and a small factory in Venezia. Some of the pieces have to be done one by one, they are handmade – sometimes Kzeniya does parts of them by herself such as the hand clutch, which was a big success in Asia (also on the cover of Elle Vietnam) and of course I wanted one of them too. Unfortunately they were already sold out by the time I had met her. In addition to that it sounded like the involvement of an extreme effort when it comes to manufacturing the Plexiglas part of the item, which Kzeniya used to do by herself…..(which certainly makes the clutch even more desirable….)

Kzeniya 出生在乌克兰,在St.Martin设计学院学习后在巴黎生活一年,现在在伦敦。她只在意大利制造自己的产品,并和严格挑选的威尼斯手工艺师傅合作。有些单品需要一个一个的手工制作,有时候Kzeniya需要自己亲自制作,比如她设计的手拿包,在亚洲都获得了很大的成功,登上了ELLE越南版的封面。博主本人也想要一个。但是在我遇见她的时候,很不幸都卖完了。尤其是再加上一般都是Kzeniya本人亲自参与制作的树脂玻璃元素,让人对她的单品更加梦寐以求。

Kzeniya has managed to increase her popularity within the course of a very short time, actually in only two years, and her bags and clutches are without exception named and published in world-renowed fashion magazines – celebrities and Hollywood stars wear her brand, tons of publications evidence that.

Kzeniya做到了在短短的时间让自己的受欢迎度大大增加。其实仅仅用了两年的时间,她的手包以及晚宴包都毫不例外的登上了全球最牛的时尚杂志上名流人士,好莱坞明星争先佩戴这个品牌,一堆堆的媒体曝光令其迅速获得巨大知名度。

Kzeniya is not a master of aggressive marketing, and as she said by herself: she intends to grow slowly but with consistence. At first I was pretty surprised by the affordability of her items – still, we're talking about a product MADE IN ITALY, almost overally handmade with only 50 pieces per collection. But then… after a while I started to understand that the entire concept was carefully and intelligently elaborated. However, you can toss and turn it around as much as you want, the core and real success factor behind the brand is the person Kzeniya herself. In all my life I have met very few people that were as classy, friendly, elegant and humble all in one. Complimeti!

Kzeniya本人并不是一个很有野心的市场营销专家,她自己也有说过:她想慢慢的稳妥的发展。起初,我特别惊讶她的单品价格的亲民性,不管如何,我们说的可是“Made in ITALY”啊,基本上全是手工制造,每一个系列只有50个单品。但是,一段时间之后我开始明白了这整个理念是小心的并且非常智慧的举措。毕竟,不管你辗转反侧的去想这个品牌的成功之处,这背后的最大原因是Kzeniya她本人。我一生的时间遇到了不多的人想她这样有品位,优雅并且也很谦虚。完完全全的!

 


KATALOVA: Kzeniya, I remember very well when you told me in Paris about your almost immediate successful entry into the market and your acceptance by the industry. Being a potential role model for many newcomers out there, which points are in your eyes most important to consider when launching a start-up in fashion?

Kzeniya, 我记得很清楚在巴黎的时候你曾经告诉我,你基本上是已进入市场就获得了成功以及这个行业对你的接纳度之高。身为该行业一波波新晋设计师的榜样人物,想要在时尚界建立一个新的品牌,最需要注意的点是哪些?

KZENIYA: Without wanting to sound pessimistic it is extremely tough to start a new brand, especially in the current economic climate and with the market being so saturated with lots of beautiful products. You have to be sure that there is a gap in the market for what you plan to do or what you plan to do is significantly better than what is already in the market, otherwise there is no point. Also try to surround yourself with professional people, as there is a lot of ‘non-professional’ in the industry pretending to be big. You have to be prepared to work very, very hard, be open minded but very focused and be nice to people.

刚开始创立一个新的品牌想要在外部表现的不那么悲观是非常难得。尤其是现在在经济萧条的情况下,市场上那么多漂亮的品牌和产品已经趋于饱和了。你必须要确定这个市场上有一个空缺,你可以计划进入,而且你的计划必须要明显的比现存市场的产品和品牌有巨大优势。否则毫无意义。还有就是让你自己身边充满专业人士,因为这个圈子里有太多“非专业的”人们都在冒充的大牌。你必须要做好非常非常努力工作的准备,头脑开放并且非常专注,而且要为人友善。

KATALOVA: In your specific case I know that you pay lots of attention to quality also during the production process itself, when it comes to choosing the right manufacturers etc. You exclusively produce in Venezia. Is there something Italians stand out for when it comes to manufacturing procedures – their own state of the art?

从您自己本人的案例上来讲,我知道您非常注意对质量的把握,并且在生产本身的过程中,要选对合适的制作师傅等等。你坚持在威尼斯生产。您认为意大利有没有自己独特的优势在生产制作方面?

KZENIYA: Yes, everything I produce is manufactured just outside Venice. Most of the materials are Italian as well. When it comes to handbags and leather goods Italy is really the best place to manufacture. It is very expensive, but the quality and craftsmanship is just on a different level when you compare to the other places.

是的,我们生产的所有东西都是在意大利威尼斯生产。大部分的用材也是来自意大利本身。一旦说起手包或者是皮具,意大利的确是最佳的制作地。是很贵,但是质量和手工是其他任何地方无法比拟的。

KATALOVA: You're a real genius when it comes to predicting what's next. Where does your good nose derive your visions from?

说道预计下一季的潮流,你简直就是天才。你的时尚触角如何赋予了你独特的慧眼?

KZENIYA: I try to improve each season, so usually when I finish with one collection I already more or less know what I want to do for the next…I also do lots of research; and look around, I believe all the trends are in the air…

我尝试每一季都有提高,所以当我结束一季的设计时,我基本上就已经知道我想设计的下一季是什么了。我也做很多调查研究,我仔细观察周边,我相信潮流就在我们身边。

KATALOVA: Inspirations and idols? Who are they and why?

谈谈您的灵感和偶像吧?

KZENIYA: I get inspired by strong women who are in charge of their destiny who live life to the full. I also get inspired a lot by modern art. Idols.. perhaps Alexander Mcqueen, I am just in love with his work. Also the style of Daphne Guinness, Isabella Blow it is just beyond amazing!

我一向被坚强的,掌握自己命运的,完全利用好自己生命的女人启发。现代艺术也会给我很多灵感。至于偶像吧……也许是Alexander Mcqueen,我就是大爱他的作品。还有Daphne Guinness的风格,还有Isabella Blow简直就是美翻了。

 

KATALOVA: I know there are all kinds of celebrities who actually wear your clutches and bags. Tell us who is the ideal KZENIYA celeb and why?

我知道有很多名人佩戴你的包包系列,说说谁是你理想中的Kzeniya名人,为什么?

KZENIYA: I really like Angelina Jolie and Beyonce. I love their styles and values and it would be amazing to see them wear the bags one day.

我最想看到Angelina JolieBeyonce佩戴。我喜欢她们的风格和她们的价值观,能看到她们一天佩戴我的设计,将会无比开心。

KATALOVA: I am rather curious so I'd like to know what to expect next from you in the near future in terms of design. How futuristic will KZENIYA continue to be?

我很好奇的想问问你下一季能有什么样的惊喜?Kzeniya还能有多么的具有未来感?

KZENIYA: My aesthetic is quite futuristic; I am trying to soften it for the next season a bit as an experiment… Next season will be all about textures and combinations of various techniques and prints. We are also planning lots of collaborations and maybe an introduction of semi-precious jewelry line in the coming seasons.

我的审美一直都是非常具有未来感的。我想在下一季稍微减弱一点作为一种实验。下一季将会是材质和各种手工技巧以及印花的使用。我们也在计划很多的合作,也许下一季会出现一些珠宝系列。

KATALOVA: Anything for men coming out soon?

有没有男士的东西呢?

KZENIYA: I am being asked this very often.. but I am not planning at the moment…

总是有人问我这个问题但是我目前还没有这个打算。

Text By Katharina Via katharinakatalova.blogspot.com

Edit/Chinese by Sam Shusen GUO

Dec 02,2013 | Share This | 232 Comments | Reply

Golnaz Ashtiani’s achieved her ticket to success in 2011 when she won the TFI Best New Labels competition. The designer, who studied at the London College of Fashion, launched  the ASHTIANI fashion line and has presented five seasons in a row at the World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto. The label’s Fall/Winter collection combines deep fall colors with neutrals and pops of bright color and printed fabrics. The line experiments heavily with textures, mixing materials like mohair, leather, and sheer panels. Ashtiani gives classic style and tailoring a modern twist with geometric and unconventional shapes in the patterns and construction of the pieces. Ashtiani as one of the best selling ALTER brands, shares with Real Style her fall fashion advice and her favorite trends.

Golnaz Ashtiani2011年赢得了TF1最佳新晋品牌大奖后,同时也获得了通往成功的金钥匙。设计师曾在伦敦时尚学院深造,一连设计了5季完整作品都在多伦多世界万事达时装周展览。该品牌秋冬系列融合了深色和中和色调,也有跳跃的颜色和印花面料。此系列极具实验性的探索了混合材料,如马海毛,皮革,和干净利落的层次拼接。Ashtiani经典的款式和剪裁与现代风味的几何形状,非常规的模型组成了结构性很强的作品。日前,该ALTER精选品牌接收了Real Style博客的专访。

  

Real Style: What are your three fall essential must-haves for women this spring and why?

您今年设计的三个女人必备的秋冬元素是什么?为什么?

  

Golnaz Ashtiani: The show piece Cape Coat: If there is one thing you need this Fall is a stylish Cape that immediately transforms your style. You throw it over anything match it with a long leather boots and you have got the look.

惊艳之作就在那个披风大衣上:如果你秋冬只需要一件潮流穿着,那一定是一件披风大衣会瞬间提升你的风格。你可以随便搭配到身上,配上一双靴子你就造型完美惊艳了。

  

  

Flared hem skirts and dresses: feminine, fun and easy to wear. They are great for the holiday season.

荷叶下摆礼服裙:女性化,好玩,不易磨损。节日时去穿这些一定是最佳选择。

Key pieces with multi fabric combinations and textures are definitely top of the list this fall. I’m really in love with the color palettes as well; rich tones like aubergine, mustard, and navy are very striking and can make some fabulous dramatic impact in your wardrobe.

关键的一些衣服,都是多面料组合和纹理肯定是这个秋天的首选。我真的爱调色板一般丰富的色调,如茄紫,芥菜色,和海军色是非常惊人的,这些颜色可以使你的衣柜神话般的提升。

RS: What are your favourite trends this season?

本季您最爱的流行趋势是什么?

GA: I love the mixing of unexpected fabrics that I’ve seen utilized in the fashion world lately. It’s a really creative way of exploring and pushing the boundaries of the way we are used to using textiles, giving depth and dimension to the cleaner lines were seeing right now.

我爱意想不到的面料,我已经看到最近在时尚界的利用混合。这是一个真正创造性地探索和推进的方式,我们习惯于用纺织品的界限,让我们现在看到的清晰的深度和广度。

RS: What are your favourite fall accessories?

您最爱的秋冬配饰是什么?

GA: Colourful fur clutches are at the top of my list for fall accessories for Fall/Winter 2013.  In fact, I’m seeing fur being used in a range of accessories this season; it’s luxurious and adds so much texture. Accessories are an easy way to update and add versatility to your wardrobe if you’re not looking to dive head first into a trend, especially if it’s something as pricey as fur.

色彩缤纷的皮草手包,绝对是我2013/冬秋季配饰首选。事实上,我看到的皮草被用在一系列的配件上,本赛季,它的豪华,增加了这么多的质地。配饰是一个简单的方法来为你的衣柜提升亮点,一定要精挑细选,您肯定不会一头潜入流行趋势中,尤其是昂贵的皮草配饰。

RS: What is your top trick for making a woman look slimmer?

您让女性看起来更苗条的秘密是什么?

GA: Wearing structured one piece dresses is a flattering way to achieve a slimmer silhouette. I think it’s also about knowing your body shape helps in finding a right outfit that would suit you.

穿一件结构性很强的礼服是一个讨人喜欢的方式来实现一个苗条的轮廓。我认为了解你自己的身材,有助于找到合适的衣服。

RS: If women could only buy one piece from your collection this fall, what would it be and why?

如果一个女人只在您本季选择一件衣服,那会是哪一件?为什么?

GA: That’s a difficult question! But I guess I’d have to go with the long-sleeved knit dress from our Fall collection. It’s got a great flared hem, and mixes the knit with hand-made silk and faux Persian lamb velvet inserts. The silhouette skims the body and the lines are very flattering. Plus, the fabrics and are just so fun and luxurious!

这是一个很难回答的问题!不过,我猜我不得不说这季的长袖针织连衣裙。它有一个巨大的喇叭形下摆和混合编织手工制作的丝绸和人造的波斯羔羊绒。轮廓和线条都非常讨人喜欢。另外,面料真的很有趣也非常豪华!

RS: Layering is always a huge trend for fall. What are your do’s and don’ts for layering?

追求层次感是今秋的大潮流,您在层次感方面做了哪些,舍弃了哪些?

GA: I feel like layering can go wrong when people try to layer all in one color or in mass. Heavy layering isn’t really in trend anymore, it should be used as more of a way to ‘peek-a-boo’ mixing sheer light weight fabrics with heavy one, this would create a balance in layering. I find that many people tend to over accessorize things, or swath themselves in draped fabrics that can look dowdy. Using tailored, clean lines while layering can give a more flattering effect that is more on-trend with the minimalism we’re seeing now.

我觉得层次这个东西,在人们试图一层一种颜色或质量的时候会犯错。重层次已经不再是趋势了,它应该被用来作为PEEK-A-BOO混合重一透明轻质面料的方式,这将创造一个平衡的分层。我发现,很多人往往过度搭配,或为自己大片披上织物反而显得寒酸。使用量身定制,简洁的线条,同时的分层可以给一个更漂亮的效果与极简主义,这种趋势才是我们现在更多看到的。

   

RS: What is on your holiday wish list?

您的假期梦想清单是什么?

GA: Getting a new hand-made mannequin for the studio.

为自己的工作室买一个新的手工制作的人体模型。

   

 

 

 

Nov 21,2013 | Share This | 9,636 Comments | Reply

"I love making art that’s useful.  I’m fascinated by manipulating fabric into a sculpture and architectural prototypes. Being able to make it walk is amazing!”

“我喜欢创造实用的艺术品。我着迷于把制衣面料改造成一个雕塑和建筑原型,能让艺术品行走起来感觉真是棒极了!”

 

 

A collection of creative masterpieces and a most-wanted fan base including Lady Gaga, Alicia Keys and Beyonce, it’s no wonder Fashion Designer Georgia Hardinge’s career is all go-go-go!

London born and French educated Georgia has had a pretty impressive career to date. From designing showpieces for the most infatuating fashion show on the planet (Victoria’s Secret), to a collaboration with River Island that’s been so successful we want more, all we can say is watch this space – and check our interview with the lady herself..

集合创造性的杰作,包括Lady GagaAlicia Keys和碧昂丝在内的庞大的粉丝群。生于伦敦,在法国接收设计教育的Georgia Hardinge,设计生涯如日中天。从为最华丽诱人的维多利亚的秘密时尚秀设计走秀作品,到和River Island的合作,一路事业开绿灯,我们想要看到更多的Georgia Hardinge作品,一起看看这次采访。

When did your fashion journey begin?

您的时尚生涯始于哪里?

The journey began with my Mother, she was a stylist and always loved dressing me up, I was a tomboy and hated wearing dresses. Looking back I love to see all the different styles and enjoy looking through the albums of my birthday tea parties wearing the sweetest matching outfits.

我的时尚旅程从我母亲哪里开始。她是一名造型师,一直都穿着靓丽时尚,我从小是个假小子,非常讨厌穿裙子。现在回顾我小时候每年生日的照片,我最爱看的就是我搭配精致的服装。

Where do you source your inspiration?

您的灵感来自哪里?

My inspiration always relies heavily on architecture as a base, but I also find myself being inspired by so much more including poetry, literature, installation artists and geometric forms. For my ‘Book Collection’ I wanted to recreate a sculpture with novels I’d read in the past and manipulate them into a print that flatters the female silhouette. My muse and someone I’m inspired by every season is Jennifer Connelly. She is very classic and elegant, yet has an experimental edge to her look which I love. A constant muse is one of my best friends, Annabelle Wallis, she is a talented actress and a very inspiring woman with an incredible personal style – the perfect woman! When starting a new collection I like to research as much as possible before creating paper sculptures to find the perfect architectural shape to inspire the print and silhouettes. Artists and artistic movements featured heavily in my upbringing and continue to inspire and influence me daily.

我的灵感总是很强的以来于建筑学中,但是我也被诗词,文学,装置艺术和地理形态所激发。在我的“书合集”中我想要创造一种从我所读的小说文字中获取灵感印出印花制作出女性服装轮廓。我的灵感缪斯一直是Jennifer Connelly。她非常优雅有品位,又有一种我非常爱的冷酷气质。还有一个灵感缪斯是我的朋友,Annabelle Wallis,她是位非常有才华的演员,非常励志的女性人物,拥有令人惊叹的个人生活方式,她简直是一名完美的女人!每当我开始构思新的设计的时候,我会尽可能在创造纸质设计之前找到能给我灵感的建筑形状去启发我的设计印花和框架。艺术家和艺术运动总会在我的作品中体现出来,每日都在激发我灵感也将会一直激发下去。

 

 

What advice would you give aspiring designers?

您会给新设计师什么建议呢?

I think industry experience is the best way to truly learn, so completing as many internships as you can whilst at University is so important!

我觉得行业内的经验是最好的真正学习的方式。所以尽量完成更多的实习工作因为你在大学学习的过程是如此的重要!

 

(by: Katrina Judd)

Nov 14,2013 | Share This | 9,302 Comments | Reply

ELIZABETH AND JAMES是新一代的现代生活方式品牌,是好莱坞最红姐妹花Olsen Twins继The Row之后,创立的又一个人品牌。Elizabethand James这两个名字来自奥尔森姐妹(Olsen Twins) 的妹妹Elizabeth Olsen和哥哥James Olsen。设计师Olsen Twins寻求设计师和当代时尚的最小区别,打破男装与女装的界限、现代与复古的界限、Uptown与Downtown的界限、高端设计与街头时尚的界限,给新生代的年轻人最摩登的生活方式。

 

Elizabeth and James is a modern lifestyle brand for a new generation. Designers Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen seek to narrow the gap between designer and contemporary fashions. The brand is Encompassing RTW, shoes, jewelry and eyewear, Elizabeth and James embodies an eclectic lifestyle by blending uptown and downtown elements.This is the third label founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley…

 

 

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Jul 30,2013 | Share This | 4,989 Comments | Reply

OHNE TITEL的13秋冬系列是方块的天下:不是单一的造型,也不是单一的作品,在Adams 和Gill 的最新系列中,并未以某种方式引用这种形状。有两个关键图案——简朴的格栅纹样,和类似堆砌砖块的设计,灵感来自Tauba Auerbach 最近的‚Float‛展览上的作品。而Adams 和Gill将它们扩展为丝印,嵌花针织,和一些非常酷的编织。将打花和挑针融为一体的卡其色和黑色格栅纹编织夹克尤其出色。

 

OHNE TITEL is a New York based womenswear label designed by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill. After graduating, they designed for established labels. OHNE TITEL pairs architectural shapes and soft draping with an eye for intricate detail combining sleek, tailored and feminine silhouettes with strong colors and an athletic undertone. 

 
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Jul 29,2013 | Share This | 4 Comments | Reply

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