Category Archives: 2013 AW
Kzeniya was born and raised in Ukraine and has studied at St.Martin's School of Design and after one year in Paris, lives in London now. She exclusively produces in Italy and collaborates with highly-selected artisans and a small factory in Venezia. Some of the pieces have to be done one by one, they are handmade – sometimes Kzeniya does parts of them by herself such as the hand clutch, which was a big success in Asia (also on the cover of Elle Vietnam) and of course I wanted one of them too. Unfortunately they were already sold out by the time I had met her. In addition to that it sounded like the involvement of an extreme effort when it comes to manufacturing the Plexiglas part of the item, which Kzeniya used to do by herself…..(which certainly makes the clutch even more desirable….)
Kzeniya has managed to increase her popularity within the course of a very short time, actually in only two years, and her bags and clutches are without exception named and published in world-renowed fashion magazines – celebrities and Hollywood stars wear her brand, tons of publications evidence that.
Kzeniya is not a master of aggressive marketing, and as she said by herself: she intends to grow slowly but with consistence. At first I was pretty surprised by the affordability of her items – still, we're talking about a product MADE IN ITALY, almost overally handmade with only 50 pieces per collection. But then… after a while I started to understand that the entire concept was carefully and intelligently elaborated. However, you can toss and turn it around as much as you want, the core and real success factor behind the brand is the person Kzeniya herself. In all my life I have met very few people that were as classy, friendly, elegant and humble all in one. Complimeti!
Kzeniya本人并不是一个很有野心的市场营销专家，她自己也有说过：她想慢慢的稳妥的发展。起初，我特别惊讶她的单品价格的亲民性，不管如何，我们说的可是“Made in ITALY”啊，基本上全是手工制造，每一个系列只有50个单品。但是，一段时间之后我开始明白了这整个理念是小心的并且非常智慧的举措。毕竟，不管你辗转反侧的去想这个品牌的成功之处，这背后的最大原因是Kzeniya她本人。我一生的时间遇到了不多的人想她这样有品位，优雅并且也很谦虚。完完全全的！
KATALOVA: Kzeniya, I remember very well when you told me in Paris about your almost immediate successful entry into the market and your acceptance by the industry. Being a potential role model for many newcomers out there, which points are in your eyes most important to consider when launching a start-up in fashion?
KZENIYA: Without wanting to sound pessimistic it is extremely tough to start a new brand, especially in the current economic climate and with the market being so saturated with lots of beautiful products. You have to be sure that there is a gap in the market for what you plan to do or what you plan to do is significantly better than what is already in the market, otherwise there is no point. Also try to surround yourself with professional people, as there is a lot of ‘non-professional’ in the industry pretending to be big. You have to be prepared to work very, very hard, be open minded but very focused and be nice to people.
KATALOVA: In your specific case I know that you pay lots of attention to quality also during the production process itself, when it comes to choosing the right manufacturers etc. You exclusively produce in Venezia. Is there something Italians stand out for when it comes to manufacturing procedures – their own state of the art?
KZENIYA: Yes, everything I produce is manufactured just outside Venice. Most of the materials are Italian as well. When it comes to handbags and leather goods Italy is really the best place to manufacture. It is very expensive, but the quality and craftsmanship is just on a different level when you compare to the other places.
KATALOVA: You're a real genius when it comes to predicting what's next. Where does your good nose derive your visions from?
KZENIYA: I try to improve each season, so usually when I finish with one collection I already more or less know what I want to do for the next…I also do lots of research; and look around, I believe all the trends are in the air…
KATALOVA: Inspirations and idols? Who are they and why?
KZENIYA: I get inspired by strong women who are in charge of their destiny who live life to the full. I also get inspired a lot by modern art. Idols.. perhaps Alexander Mcqueen, I am just in love with his work. Also the style of Daphne Guinness, Isabella Blow it is just beyond amazing!
我一向被坚强的，掌握自己命运的，完全利用好自己生命的女人启发。现代艺术也会给我很多灵感。至于偶像吧……也许是Alexander Mcqueen，我就是大爱他的作品。还有Daphne Guinness的风格，还有Isabella Blow简直就是美翻了。
KATALOVA: I know there are all kinds of celebrities who actually wear your clutches and bags. Tell us who is the ideal KZENIYA celeb and why?
KZENIYA: I really like Angelina Jolie and Beyonce. I love their styles and values and it would be amazing to see them wear the bags one day.
KATALOVA: I am rather curious so I'd like to know what to expect next from you in the near future in terms of design. How futuristic will KZENIYA continue to be?
KZENIYA: My aesthetic is quite futuristic; I am trying to soften it for the next season a bit as an experiment… Next season will be all about textures and combinations of various techniques and prints. We are also planning lots of collaborations and maybe an introduction of semi-precious jewelry line in the coming seasons.
KATALOVA: Anything for men coming out soon?
KZENIYA: I am being asked this very often.. but I am not planning at the moment…
Text By Katharina Via katharinakatalova.blogspot.com
Edit/Chinese by Sam Shusen GUO
Golnaz Ashtiani’s achieved her ticket to success in 2011 when she won the TFI Best New Labels competition. The designer, who studied at the London College of Fashion, launched the ASHTIANI fashion line and has presented five seasons in a row at the World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto. The label’s Fall/Winter collection combines deep fall colors with neutrals and pops of bright color and printed fabrics. The line experiments heavily with textures, mixing materials like mohair, leather, and sheer panels. Ashtiani gives classic style and tailoring a modern twist with geometric and unconventional shapes in the patterns and construction of the pieces. Ashtiani as one of the best selling ALTER brands, shares with Real Style her fall fashion advice and her favorite trends.
Golnaz Ashtiani在2011年赢得了TF1最佳新晋品牌大奖后，同时也获得了通往成功的金钥匙。设计师曾在伦敦时尚学院深造，一连设计了5季完整作品都在多伦多世界万事达时装周展览。该品牌秋冬系列融合了深色和中和色调，也有跳跃的颜色和印花面料。此系列极具实验性的探索了混合材料，如马海毛，皮革，和干净利落的层次拼接。Ashtiani经典的款式和剪裁与现代风味的几何形状，非常规的模型组成了结构性很强的作品。日前,该ALTER精选品牌接收了Real Style博客的专访。
Real Style: What are your three fall essential must-haves for women this spring and why?
Golnaz Ashtiani: The show piece Cape Coat: If there is one thing you need this Fall is a stylish Cape that immediately transforms your style. You throw it over anything match it with a long leather boots and you have got the look.
Flared hem skirts and dresses: feminine, fun and easy to wear. They are great for the holiday season.
Key pieces with multi fabric combinations and textures are definitely top of the list this fall. I’m really in love with the color palettes as well; rich tones like aubergine, mustard, and navy are very striking and can make some fabulous dramatic impact in your wardrobe.
RS: What are your favourite trends this season?
GA: I love the mixing of unexpected fabrics that I’ve seen utilized in the fashion world lately. It’s a really creative way of exploring and pushing the boundaries of the way we are used to using textiles, giving depth and dimension to the cleaner lines we’re seeing right now.
RS: What are your favourite fall accessories?
GA: Colourful fur clutches are at the top of my list for fall accessories for Fall/Winter 2013. In fact, I’m seeing fur being used in a range of accessories this season; it’s luxurious and adds so much texture. Accessories are an easy way to update and add versatility to your wardrobe if you’re not looking to dive head first into a trend, especially if it’s something as pricey as fur.
RS: What is your top trick for making a woman look slimmer?
GA: Wearing structured one piece dresses is a flattering way to achieve a slimmer silhouette. I think it’s also about knowing your body shape helps in finding a right outfit that would suit you.
RS: If women could only buy one piece from your collection this fall, what would it be and why?
GA: That’s a difficult question! But I guess I’d have to go with the long-sleeved knit dress from our Fall collection. It’s got a great flared hem, and mixes the knit with hand-made silk and faux Persian lamb velvet inserts. The silhouette skims the body and the lines are very flattering. Plus, the fabrics and are just so fun and luxurious!
RS: Layering is always a huge trend for fall. What are your do’s and don’ts for layering?
GA: I feel like layering can go wrong when people try to layer all in one color or in mass. Heavy layering isn’t really in trend anymore, it should be used as more of a way to ‘peek-a-boo’ mixing sheer light weight fabrics with heavy one, this would create a balance in layering. I find that many people tend to over accessorize things, or swath themselves in draped fabrics that can look dowdy. Using tailored, clean lines while layering can give a more flattering effect that is more on-trend with the minimalism we’re seeing now.
RS: What is on your holiday wish list?
GA: Getting a new hand-made mannequin for the studio.
"I love making art that’s useful. I’m fascinated by manipulating fabric into a sculpture and architectural prototypes. Being able to make it walk is amazing!”
A collection of creative masterpieces and a most-wanted fan base including Lady Gaga, Alicia Keys and Beyonce, it’s no wonder Fashion Designer Georgia Hardinge’s career is all go-go-go!
London born and French educated Georgia has had a pretty impressive career to date. From designing showpieces for the most infatuating fashion show on the planet (Victoria’s Secret), to a collaboration with River Island that’s been so successful we want more, all we can say is watch this space – and check our interview with the lady herself..
集合创造性的杰作，包括Lady Gaga，Alicia Keys和碧昂丝在内的庞大的粉丝群。生于伦敦，在法国接收设计教育的Georgia Hardinge，设计生涯如日中天。从为最华丽诱人的维多利亚的秘密时尚秀设计走秀作品，到和River Island的合作，一路事业开绿灯，我们想要看到更多的Georgia Hardinge作品，一起看看这次采访。
When did your fashion journey begin?
The journey began with my Mother, she was a stylist and always loved dressing me up, I was a tomboy and hated wearing dresses. Looking back I love to see all the different styles and enjoy looking through the albums of my birthday tea parties wearing the sweetest matching outfits.
Where do you source your inspiration?
My inspiration always relies heavily on architecture as a base, but I also find myself being inspired by so much more including poetry, literature, installation artists and geometric forms. For my ‘Book Collection’ I wanted to recreate a sculpture with novels I’d read in the past and manipulate them into a print that flatters the female silhouette. My muse and someone I’m inspired by every season is Jennifer Connelly. She is very classic and elegant, yet has an experimental edge to her look which I love. A constant muse is one of my best friends, Annabelle Wallis, she is a talented actress and a very inspiring woman with an incredible personal style – the perfect woman! When starting a new collection I like to research as much as possible before creating paper sculptures to find the perfect architectural shape to inspire the print and silhouettes. Artists and artistic movements featured heavily in my upbringing and continue to inspire and influence me daily.
我的灵感总是很强的以来于建筑学中，但是我也被诗词，文学，装置艺术和地理形态所激发。在我的“书合集”中我想要创造一种从我所读的小说文字中获取灵感印出印花制作出女性服装轮廓。我的灵感缪斯一直是Jennifer Connelly。她非常优雅有品位，又有一种我非常爱的冷酷气质。还有一个灵感缪斯是我的朋友，Annabelle Wallis，她是位非常有才华的演员，非常励志的女性人物，拥有令人惊叹的个人生活方式，她简直是一名完美的女人！每当我开始构思新的设计的时候，我会尽可能在创造纸质设计之前找到能给我灵感的建筑形状去启发我的设计印花和框架。艺术家和艺术运动总会在我的作品中体现出来，每日都在激发我灵感也将会一直激发下去。
What advice would you give aspiring designers?
I think industry experience is the best way to truly learn, so completing as many internships as you can whilst at University is so important!
(by: Katrina Judd)
ELIZABETH AND JAMES是新一代的现代生活方式品牌，是好莱坞最红姐妹花Olsen Twins继The Row之后，创立的又一个人品牌。Elizabethand James这两个名字来自奥尔森姐妹(Olsen Twins) 的妹妹Elizabeth Olsen和哥哥James Olsen。设计师Olsen Twins寻求设计师和当代时尚的最小区别，打破男装与女装的界限、现代与复古的界限、Uptown与Downtown的界限、高端设计与街头时尚的界限，给新生代的年轻人最摩登的生活方式。
Elizabeth and James is a modern lifestyle brand for a new generation. Designers Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen seek to narrow the gap between designer and contemporary fashions. The brand is Encompassing RTW, shoes, jewelry and eyewear, Elizabeth and James embodies an eclectic lifestyle by blending uptown and downtown elements.This is the third label founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley…
OHNE TITEL的13秋冬系列是方块的天下：不是单一的造型，也不是单一的作品，在Adams 和Gill 的最新系列中，并未以某种方式引用这种形状。有两个关键图案——简朴的格栅纹样，和类似堆砌砖块的设计，灵感来自Tauba Auerbach 最近的‚Float‛展览上的作品。而Adams 和Gill将它们扩展为丝印，嵌花针织，和一些非常酷的编织。将打花和挑针融为一体的卡其色和黑色格栅纹编织夹克尤其出色。
OHNE TITEL is a New York based womenswear label designed by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill. After graduating, they designed for established labels. OHNE TITEL pairs architectural shapes and soft draping with an eye for intricate detail combining sleek, tailored and feminine silhouettes with strong colors and an athletic undertone.
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