Category Archives: 2012 AW

Anthony Vaccarello是巴黎年轻的新生代设计师,1982年出生,父母是意大利人,他在布鲁塞尔接受教育,现在定居于巴黎。2008年,创建了自己的同名品牌。2011年7月,他凭借2012春季系列,夺得了20万欧元的‚2011年ANDAM时尚大奖‛(ANDAM Fashion Award),成为了巴黎炙手可热的新锐设计师。2012年秋冬,Anthony Vaccarello想要对裁剪进行进一步的探究。90后超模Karlie Kloss作为开场模特打响了这一季硬朗、强势的军装风格:深蓝色与黑色的缎子搭配金属扣,高腰裙,光洁的发束。50年代的贴身连身裤与连身裙,剪裁精良的立体外套,虽然款式貌似看起来只能适合于超模的身材,其实确是简单好搭配的必备款。难怪在秀场结束之后就收到了大牌明星的订单和顶级杂志的邀约。
   

Italian-Belgian fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello was interested in creating fashion from a young age and went to school at Brussels La Cambre where he studied sculpture. In 2006 he graduated with an honors degree and won first place at the Hayes International Festival of Fashion and Photography, for his graduate collection inspired by porn star La Cicciolina.
In 2009, Vaccaerllo presented his first eponymous ready-to-wear collection in the store Maria Luisa, in Paris, comprised of five leather and organza mini skirts. He won the Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode, or ANDAM fashion award in 2011.

Feb 06,2013 | Share This | 1,523 Comments | Reply

2001年创建的伦敦品牌Emma Cook凭借薄薄的雪纺及Jersey 材料的设计获得了VS Sassoon 颁发的Cutting Edge Talent 奖项。此外,充满了希腊风格和不对称剪裁是Emma Cook的设计特色。出生在曼彻斯特,从中央圣马丁毕业的Emma Cook,曾被评选为全世界最重要的150名设计师。相较于前卫出挑的英国设计,EMMA COOK更适合那些有自己主张的年轻都市女孩,追求不张扬的细节和与众不同。2012年秋冬,EMMA COOK延续了动物和植物纹样,搭配了复古的花纹和色彩。橘色点亮了整个秋冬的色彩,棕色粉色和白色演绎了冬日的温暖色彩。丝质针织以及薄羊毛的上衣不仅轻薄轻便又舒适自在,在冬天可以与不同的服装进行搭配。
Known for her progressive digital prints, Central Saint Martins graduate Emma Cook worked for Donna Karan and Martine Sitbon before launching her own label. The Brit-girl designer takes inspiration from nature and the surreal to create her signature photo montages – a must-have for the style set.
Emma Cook’s eponymous line is inspired by a fictional muse named Susie. To create each season’s look, Cook imagines her young character traveling throughout time and the world, dictating the designer’s use of fabrics, prints, and detailing—which often include hand-painted and handcrafted touches. Past collections have included whimsical shapes, chintz accents, and draped jersey with laser-cut overlays.

Feb 05,2013 | Share This | 5 Comments | Reply

英国独立设计师品牌Jonathan Saunders曾是格拉斯哥艺术学院的家俱设计师。在一位导师的引领下, Saunders进入纺织品领域并迷上丝网印刷工序,尤其是特殊工艺印花(engineered print)。从伦敦圣马丁毕业之后Jonathan曾为ALEXANDER MCQUEEN的工作,然后在2008年创建了自己的的品牌。由于其独特又略带忧郁的立体印花,被称之为英国的“印花王子”。
2012年秋冬,整个系列带有一些英式的乡村气息,像是过去田园的马术造型,比如中长款的半身裙,高领毛衣,搭配了不同于以往色彩的新型印花。设计师希望在秋冬塑造出一个健康,年轻的女性形象。本季突出的是具有浮雕效果的外套,裙子以及夹克,设计师从日本元素中提取了灵感,对于面料本身进行了更多的尝试与探讨。绸缎面料的裤子和短裙也是本季关注的面料之一,标志性的立体印花搭配精良的剪裁,让绸缎也展现出了不同的样貌。

Born in Glasgow, Scotland. Saunders went from Glasgow School of Art to Central Saint Martins, graduating with an MA in Printed Textiles in 2002 that won him the Lancome Colour Award. In 2006 he was awarded the Fashion Enterprise Award at the British Fashion Awards. He received BFC Fashion Forward sponsorship for spring/summer 2007 and was shortlisted for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2011. He has worked previously with Alexander McQueen, Christian Lacroix at Pucci and Pheobe Philo at Chloe, picking up invaluable lessons in “how to turn ideas into real product and the complexity of our timing schedules within the fashion industry”. Jonathan continues to consult for some of the largest and most prestigious print fashion houses in Europe.

Feb 04,2013 | Share This | 5,842 Comments | Reply

来自摩洛哥的母亲和来自法国的父亲给与了Bernard Delettez一个异于其他孩子的童年。从事石油勘探的父亲在Bernard 六岁的时候举家搬迁到了法国。Bernard 从小在热爱香料和饰品的母亲身边长大。年轻的Bernard早期在加利福尼亚做编剧,机缘巧合下,开始逐渐对宝石产生了浓厚的兴趣。他立刻放弃了当时在好莱坞的工作,并去学校进行宝石学的深造。两年之后,Bernard拥有了自己工厂,并专注于祖母绿宝石的研究和设计。八十年代中期,Bernard因为其独具匠心的白水晶设计而闻名遐迩。为了专注于设计,Bernard并没有自己的店而是选择将所有的商品都只在全球一线的奢侈品买手店出售。他现在的工作室设在意大利罗马,在当地拥有一座自己的宫殿用来放置从世界各地带回来的珍贵艺术品。这些新奇又独特的艺术品时刻刺激着他,创造出新鲜,充满创意的系列。Bernard Delettez认为对於自己的作品不需要有过多的说明,应该要让看的人自己体会并且由珠宝自己说话。

黑暗的浪漫主义风格骷髅与昆虫造型,黑檀木与金色戒指,精致承重的锁链,十字架与指节戒指都是Bernard的代表作。不同于其他的饰品设计师,Bernard的饰品并没有强烈的地域性,而更像是客人自身对于美和艺术的一种感受。复杂的新雕刻技术,新材质与原材质的混合处理,或者是新的灵感,时刻都让Bernard迸发出新的设计和创意。

Bernard Delettrez is something of an enigma. A quiet, well travelled man who prefers to let his jewellery speak for itself. After 30 years of designing, his unique pieces do just that! Always willing to go the extra mile, Bernard prefers to mix a prize gem with materials that are both complex and surprising to continue a lifelong fascination. Born in Casablanca but raised in Paris, this world citizen’s fascination for all things precious led him to California where he studied at the Gemological Institute of America. Impulse led him to Brazil to manage a friend’s emerald mine in the late 70s and just two years later Bernard owned his own mine and was designing for prestigious houses like H. Stern. The nineties brought change again, and after building a successful empire he sold it all to sail around the world, a trip that lasted almost 10 years. Now settled in Rome, Bernard focuses on designing his own jewellery for his eclectic, free-spirited and devoted clients. His ever-expanding avant-garde taste is a continuous life pursuit that takes him from his palazzo in Rome, to his house in Kenya and everywhere in-between on a constant search’s for the rare and the beautiful.

Feb 01,2013 | Share This | 7 Comments | Reply

设计师简介是好莱坞最红姐妹花Olsen Twins继The Row之后创立的又一个人品牌。Elizabeth和James这两个名字来自Olsen Twins的妹妹Elizabeth Olsen和哥哥James Olsen。品牌建立于2007年,包括了女装系列,男装系列,珠宝系列,女鞋系列,眼镜系列等。 品牌设计最大的特点便是“折衷主义”——打破男装与女装的界限、现代与复古的界限,Uptown与Downtown的界限、高端设计与街头时尚的界限,给新生代的年轻人最摩登的生活方式。大衣和夹克是品牌秋冬系列的主推单品,沉稳又易于搭配的色彩加上简洁有力的廓形非常适合摩登感的年轻人。

2012年秋冬是Elizabeth and James 突破性的一个系列,宽松的上衣,带有睡衣花纹的夏装,飞皮草配饰以及简洁有力的剪裁都带给了这一季强劲的视觉冲击。同时,每个单品都可以分开与其他配饰进行搭配。本季的灵感来源于纽约的流行音乐,犹如一个舒适自在的冬日午后,只是静静的享受着都市中的平静。

Elizabeth & James is a fashion line started by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in 2007. Named after their younger sister and older brother, the Elizabeth and James line features contemporary sportswear. Find a chic blend of masculine and feminine cuts with tailored blazers, men's shirts and super-sleek pants that are sure to become wardrobe essentials.

Inspired by the mix of uptown and downtown, masculine and feminine, and casual and dressy, the Elizabeth and James collection is unique in the mixture of androgynous menswear inspired blazers and shirts with delicate mini-dresses, feminine detailing, sequins and unusual fabrics.

Jan 31,2013 | Share This | 149 Comments | Reply

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