Category Archives: 伦敦

2001年创建的伦敦品牌Emma Cook凭借薄薄的雪纺及Jersey 材料的设计获得了VS Sassoon 颁发的Cutting Edge Talent 奖项。此外,充满了希腊风格和不对称剪裁是Emma Cook的设计特色。出生在曼彻斯特,从中央圣马丁毕业的Emma Cook,曾被评选为全世界最重要的150名设计师。相较于前卫出挑的英国设计,EMMA COOK更适合那些有自己主张的年轻都市女孩,追求不张扬的细节和与众不同。2012年秋冬,EMMA COOK延续了动物和植物纹样,搭配了复古的花纹和色彩。橘色点亮了整个秋冬的色彩,棕色粉色和白色演绎了冬日的温暖色彩。丝质针织以及薄羊毛的上衣不仅轻薄轻便又舒适自在,在冬天可以与不同的服装进行搭配。
Known for her progressive digital prints, Central Saint Martins graduate Emma Cook worked for Donna Karan and Martine Sitbon before launching her own label. The Brit-girl designer takes inspiration from nature and the surreal to create her signature photo montages – a must-have for the style set.
Emma Cook’s eponymous line is inspired by a fictional muse named Susie. To create each season’s look, Cook imagines her young character traveling throughout time and the world, dictating the designer’s use of fabrics, prints, and detailing—which often include hand-painted and handcrafted touches. Past collections have included whimsical shapes, chintz accents, and draped jersey with laser-cut overlays.

Feb 05,2013 | Share This | 5 Comments | Reply

Lulu Guinness出生在英国一个显赫的家庭中,由于总是买不到自己的包从而对包的设计产生了浓厚的兴趣。她的设计有着独特的英伦风情,以四、五十年代怀旧的元素作为设计发想,其作品带有高贵英国淑女优雅的气质,除外更常将各种花卉、宠物、女性饰品、等运用在各种设计主题上,柔美高雅的创作风深深地感动各年龄层的女性。品牌特点嘴唇是LULU GUINNESS最重要的标志之一,除了嘴唇型的手握包之外,嘴唇也会出现在各种不同的手提包上,如摁扣,印花或是拉链。另一个显著的标志是书本造型。尽管每一季LULU GUINNESS都会更换不同的灵感来源以及创新,书本系列仍然是她颇受好评的系列。牛奶盒,公交车,商店,娃娃脸等各种可爱又有品位的设计为了赢得了多次的最佳英国手提包设计师大奖并且也为人所熟知。
Famous for exquisite, witty handbags and accessories, Lulu Guinness launched her company in 1989 and instantly became a "must" in every fashion aficionado's international address book. Lulu's collectable bags have been described as 'tomorrow's treasures' and have become permanent fixtures in many museums. Meanwhile her bags are seen on the arms of an ever-expanding list of celebrities, amongst them are Dita von Teese, Helena Bonham Carter, Katy Perry, Sophie Dahl, Rachel Weisz, Keira Knightley, Sienna Miller, Agyness Deyn, Alexa Chung.

Jan 29,2013 | Share This | 0 Comments | Reply

Jonathan Saunders is one of the designers that I had to wait to admire. Being totally honest, what might be a bit weird in a fashion writing circuit, when I first saw one of his previous collections, I thought “naah, is it really something worth spending my money on?”, but then slowly, along with our „acquaintance was getting more intense I have begun to feel first a kid of likeness, and then a real value of his work.

 

Jonathan Saunders是一个我非常崇拜的设计师。也许这样说会有点奇怪,当我第一次看到他上一系列时,我想“…这真的是值得我花钱去买的吗?但是渐渐的,我开始了解这个品牌,开始对它产生了一体会和认识到它的价值所在。

 

 

And today I can clearly see why Alexander Macqueen hired a young Scottish designer only 2 days after his graduation from Glasgow School of Arts.

 

今天我能明白为什么Alexander Macqueen请了这么一个才从格拉斯哥美术学校毕业不到2天的年轻设计师。

2011AW COLLECTION

 

It all begun with Jonathan F/W 11 collection that melted my cold heart.

Beautifully elegant and chic range is full of subtly Art-Nouveau printed dresses, shirts and pencil skirts in hues of cranberry, teal, emerald, and red. Its inspired by the 30s and 40s, old subversive photographs of Paul Outerbridge, retro journals and prints of William Morris. There was no wonder I might not fall in love with it. Although, recently its popular for designers to tell a specific story behind the collection, rarely it happens to be as relevant and authentic as in case of JS. The most obvious sign of its brilliant inspiration are of course patterns, but for those who are a bit more familiar with 30s chic its easy to see the links in cuts and shapes. The vibrant, fragile decadence talks through the clothes.

 

一切从Jonathan 2011秋冬系列融化了我那一刻开始。

魅力高贵又女性化系列是一个全新的艺术印花裙,短裙和铅笔裙都充满了酸果蔓,鸳鸯,翡翠的色调和红色。系列被3040年代的作品所感染,包括Paul Outerbridge怀旧颠覆性的照片,很久前的旧新闻纸以及William Morris的印花。这也可能是我一开始没有去喜欢上它的原因。虽然现在很流行去构造一个设计些列背后的故事,但是在JS这里却表现得非常的相得益彰。这已系列最让明显的标志性东西就是非常巧妙的图案运用,对熟悉30年代女人打扮的朋友来说就会很容易发现服装剪裁和形状的联系性。服装里面展示着一种脆弱的颓废震撼。

William Morris’s Retro wallpaper partens

Except the entire beautiful splendor Jonathan Saunders didnt forgot about his buyers. Every piece can work as professional daywear, but isnt too serious to take out to an early evening event. No one can question that its a big advantage. And one more thing –the geometric and graphic patterns as well as contrast colors give a boundless possibility to mix and match, which is one of the main trends to follow this season.

 

把这些美丽的光环放一边不说,Jonathan Saunders没有忘记他的顾客们。每件衣服都能作为日常穿着搭配,又可以出席一些傍晚的活动。没有人会有任何关于你穿着的疑问,这将会是一个很大的好处。还有一点值得一说的是-几何形象图案加以对比的颜色给我们了一种没有界限的混搭,这将也是这季主要的风格。

 

So, after seeing A/W collection I started to really appreciate JS work, but the moment I became a truehearted fan came about a week ago, when his S/S 12 was presented at the London Fashion Week.

The collection pays a tribute to the colour, its density and strength in the way of causing emotions. The way silhouettes full of pastels presented on subtle shining fabrics were following each other on the runway was pure perfection!

 

所以当我看过秋冬些列之后,我开始感激JS的努力,但是让我真正变成他的粉丝的那已瞬间是在一个星期前,他在伦敦时装周2012春夏系列中的表现。

2012春夏系列是对色彩的一次献礼,它的浓重度和突出的有点带来了不小的情绪波动。服装轮廓由清单柔和的色彩表现在轻薄闪亮的布料,在T台上穿梭来回看着是如此的完美!

BEHIND THE SCENES -LFWSS12

I have a feeling that there is a strong link to the previous collection, but not in a way of repeating shapes or patterns, but in a fluency of style.

After 30s and 40s winter, designer takes us to the 50s where full-skirted silhouettes bring Miami Déco into the future. Silk dressed and skirts are floating effortlessly and every look exemplifies timelessly elegant women.

 

我感到2012春夏系列和上一个系列有很强的联系,没有重复的外形或者图案,但是细微的关联从流畅的风格中表现出来。

在看过30年代和40年代的冬季风情之后,设计师带我们来到了50年代,在那里裙子的轮廓会把迈阿密艺术带到未来。穿上绸缎以及裙子很容易就有蓬蓬感,每套装扮都能看起来像是一个永恒高贵的女人。

SS2012 COLLECTION

Oh, I cannot wait for the spring to come!

 

Oh,我实在是等不急春天的到来了!

 

Sep 30,2011 | Share This | 4,017 Comments | Reply

Lara Stone x Markus Lupfer’s in-famous lips

 

This season the London-based designer  is bringing  the cool-girl look to Alter!

总部在伦敦的设计师 Markus Lupfer 在这季里面给我们Alter带来了最酷的女孩的形象。

 

To make the short introduction, he graduated from the  with first-class honours degree in 1997. Thanks to his unique style and the artful way he refreshes everyday basics, the German-born designer didn’t wait long for commercial success. His critically acclaimed final year collection was immediately bought by fashion boutique Koh Samui. And shortly after that he was awarded the New Generation Award, in 2001, allowing him to show the label that bears his name.

 

我们简单的给大家介绍一下这位天才设计师,他以第一等级的成绩毕业于1998年。由于他卓越的设计功力和艺术般的判断力给每天穿着的基本款注入了新的元素,这使得他很快在商业上面取得了很大的成功。他最后一年的设计系列很快被服装店Koh Samui买去。很快,他被授予2001年新生代奖,他也获得了展示他同名品牌的机会。

 

 

For Autumn/Winter 2011 a knitwear specialist Markus Lupfer goes beyond the expectations not only in case of his designs. He do understand what does English style means and throws his new collection fete in the most original and whimsical Billiard room in London, and it’s a most welcome break from the traditional fashion show.

 

针织衫设计最为出众的 Markus Lupfer 2011年秋冬带给大家的远远超过了所期望的。他清楚的知道英国风格代表着什么,同时他最新系列的庆祝会在伦敦最原始的和奇特的Billiard房间举行。

 

 

“Kaleidoscopic Tea Party” was the title of Lupfer’s LFW presentation



Everything is perfectly fitted – the models are seated in a Red Grooms–ish version of a train, there are scones, clotted cream, and jam on hand (some other good things about England!), soundtrack includes James Brown’s “Get Up (I Feel Like Being a) Sex Machine” and Smokey Robinson and the Miracles’ “Tears of a Clown” and everyone seems to really enjoy the moment.

 

所有的都准备就位,而且非常完整的表现除了这完美的瞬间-模特们就坐在有点带有红色新郎感觉的火车里,周围有烤饼,凝结的冰欺凌,粘在手上的果酱(这是一些能代表英国的好东西),音乐随即响起,包括了James Brown’s”Get Up(I Feel Like Being a)Sex Machine”以及Smokey RobinsonMiracles”Tears of a Clown”,大家看起来都是如此的享受这一个精心的制造的一个瞬间。

 

 

Models & designer himself sitting on the right


 

 

Gorgeous Olivia Palermo from “The City”, designer’s old friend and muse

 


 

The inspiration behind the collection are the woodlands of  Nordic and Alpine terrains, it’s winter landscapes and the phosphorescent light of sun on the snow that emerges in the metallic Lurex, which is weaved into modern tweed coats and dresses. The effect is amazing and I can imagine how beautiful you must look wearing this coat, shining in the winter sunlight.

 

设计师的灵感来源于北欧的树林地和阿尔卑斯的地势,冬天的地势和阳光在雪地聚集的地方散发着点点磷光,这些都被他的带入了现代的毛绒外套和裙子。 出来的效果太棒了了,我们可以想象穿在身上是多么的有现代女孩的时尚感,穿越在冬季的街头,身上散发着阳光和服装淡淡的火花。

 

 

 

 

Also, for this season Lupfer haven’t forgot about his trademark. An upbeat message for the fall sounds: “You look really good today„ and is spelt out in sequins on simple knitwear shapes. But this is not the most witty part…

 

 同时,在这季Lupfer没有忘记他独特的商标。这个秋季一个强烈的声音传达着一个信息:你看起来很不错,从简单针织衫上面的小亮片散发出来。但是这不是唯一最风趣的一部分。

 

 

 

 

If you have heard about Markus before you have to know his signature – the sequin lips.  Then I assume you are familiar with Lara Stone, the extraordinary Dutch model and her in-famous gap-tooth. Now put these two things together and you got a “laughing lips” sweater – designer’s leitmotif (see first picture!). So playful and sexy. It’s just how the youth supposed to be. It’s one of the reasons why legions of Lupfer’s fans include celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Rihanna, and Lily Allen.

 

如果你已经听过了Markus的大名,你必须要知道他的一个特色签名-闪亮珠片的嘴唇。我设想你对Lara Stone非常了解,她是非常著名的一位荷兰模特和她出名的微微张开的嘴唇。现在我们把这2个东西放在一起,你就得到了这个微笑嘴唇针织衫-设计师的主题。整个是一个好玩而且很性感的感觉,年轻不应该就是这样么。这也是为什么像Gwen StefaniRihanna,和 Lily Allen都是他忠实的粉丝。

 

 

 

It’s a must have!

这个是绝对值得拥有的!

Aug 15,2011 | Share This | 4 Comments | Reply

When new Erdem was delivered  to our headquarters  all of us sitting in an office automatically stopped doing our own thing and just starred at new arrivals. And it wasn`t a short  moment, probably we prolonged our lunch break twice. Why the level of our excitement was so high? The secret lays in the fact that this time it wasn`t just a new piece of garment that we received, it was a piece of art.

 

Erdem的衣服送抵到我们总部办公室的时候,我们都无法将眼睛挪开这些大师级的杰作,大家都停下了自己手头的工作,谈论着它们是多么地有创作感。感叹印花面料的运用给简单的剪裁带来了独特的魅力,我们必须要承认,Erdem的到来仿佛是第2个午餐休息。到底有什么很特别的原因让我们如此的兴奋呢?原因在于我们不仅收到了一件高质地的服装,而更多地,是一件卓越的艺术品。

 

 

Erdem Moralioglu is the man who created this masterpiece. He was raised in Montreal by his Turkish father and English mother, and studied fashion in both Canada and England. He received his master's degree from the Royal College of Art, London, in 2003, and worked for Diane von Furstenberg, in New York, before returning to London to launch his own label in 2005. Shortly after that he has won many accolades for his designs, including the British Fashion Council/Vogue’s first Fashion Fund Award in 2010.

 

Erdem Moralioglu,这个能创造大师级设计的天才。他是在蒙特利尔长大,父亲是土耳其人和一个来自英国的母亲。2003年,他在伦敦皇家艺术学院得到了他的硕士学位,在2005年他回到伦敦建立他自己的品牌之前,他在纽约为Diane Von Furstenberg工作。品牌建立后不久,他便赢得了很多设计的奖项,包括2010年英国时尚协会/ Vogue第一时尚基金奖。

 

But let`s focus on his designs. What makes Erdem so special and why his fan`s crown includes both “first class ladies” and red carpet celebrities such as Keira Knightley, Sienna Miller, Ashley Olsen, Chloe Sevigny, Thandie Newton, Kirsten Dunst, Claudia Schiffer, and Anna Friel ?

 

现在让我们把目光锁定在他的设计上。 是什么让Erdem如此的特别?是什么让他的追随者是“第一夫人”以及红毯明星包括Keira KnightlySienna MillerAshley Olsen Chloe SevignyThandie NewtonKirsten DunstClaudia Schifferand Anna Friel?

 

 

For me, what makes him one of my favorite designer  is mix of bold and unusual colour combinations, curvaceous tailoring and amazing prints, spiced with a whimsical revival of embroidery, and flattering details. It always works because who do not love grown-up clothes ,which look pretty, without being over-sweet?

 

对我来说,他作为一个我最喜欢的设计师主要表现在大胆的创意以及不寻常的色彩混搭,有曲线的缝制以及惊艳的印花,一个具有搞怪的刺绣品,和令人陶醉的细节。谁会不爱成熟一点的服装,不仅看起来漂亮而不会觉得过分甜美。

 

 

 

 

There are two words, in which you can describe his Autumn/Winter 2011 Collection: romance and fantasy. Both wreathed by a gloomy shadow, tempting and dangerous.

 

 你可以用2个词来形容2011 秋冬系列:浪漫,迷幻。Erdem 像被笼罩在阴影中,挑逗并且暗藏危险。

 

 

 As designer declares the collection was inspired by “a slightly unhinged artist’s wife”. “I’d seen the movie ‘Pollock’ – says Moralioglu – “and was thinking about paint splatters and 1950s prints left out in the rain. And while last season I was preoccupied with a girl, I’m now thinking about a woman.”

 

 Moralioglu解释他的系列的灵感是来源自“一个轻微精神错乱的艺术家的妻子”。“我看过电影‘Pollock’-Moralioglu接着说 ’‘当时脑子里面闪现的是泼洒油漆和遗落在雨中的50年代的印花。 我在上一季考虑的是女孩,这一季我所得设计是想去表现一个女人。‘

 

 

 

It`s a mature inspiration and the effect is stunning. Erdem has gone really edgy making colors explode like fireworks on fabric. Bold, painterly prints, full of splashes and cross-hatched brushstrokes are dashed off from a palette of raspberry, ocher, peacock blue, and emerald.

 

这个是个很成熟的灵感,出来的效果是非常出众的。Erdem 变得非常的前卫,颜色的冲撞就像是布料上面突然的出现的烟花。勇敢的创意,有美术感的印花,像充斥着野梅,赭石,孔雀蓝,和祖母绿的调色盘。

 

 

And there is a lot more I could say about these highly desirable clothes, but I guess the best way is to discover it yourself. See you @ Alter!

 

太多太多可以来形容这一季无比诱惑的服装,我想最好的方法就是你自己去发现它的美。 Alter 期待你的光临。

Aug 03,2011 | Share This | 12 Comments | Reply

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